A3)
Making a garden child-friendly is really a question of trying to look at the garden through your child's eyes and identifying hazards and dangers. Make sure you have child gates on any steps or stairs. Make sure anything you could fall from has a non-climable barrier in front of it. If you install a balustrade make sure the slats are no wider than 100mm so a child can't get their head trapped in it. Have the slats vertical rather than horizontal so that they can't be climbed.
Look out for hazards at your child's head height - these could be sharp edges of an open window or a summerhouse.
Soft surfaces are much better for children to play on - consider using lawn, bark chippings or rubber crumb as surfaces rather than slabs or concrete.
If you have any water in the garden make sure it is safe. Open water like ponds or pools need to be fenced off to be safe. Consider turning a pond into a sandpit until the children are older. You can make it back into a pond quite easily when more appropriate.
There are certain plants which are best avoided while children are young - rose thorns are dangerous to small children. Euphorbia has a milky sap which can cause a nasty rash. Some plants like yew have berries which are poisonous.
Don't forget all the fun things you can add to your garden to delight children - bird baths, bird tables, nest boxes and feeders can provide hours of entertainment. Colourful perennials make the garden look cheerful and flowers can be cut for the house. Sandpits, tents and hammocks are great fun too.

A2) The obvious solution is terracing of the slope to create more
useable planting spaces or functional level areas for paving or lawns – however
this can be expensive and prohibitive in many cases.

Planting can also be used as a much cheaper alternative to stabilise a
sloping site or to lessen the effect of a slope visually when viewed from the
house or garden. To help stabilise the soil and give speedy coverage, strong
growing climbers or ground cover plants are the best solution, these include:

Jasminum nudiflorum

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. repens

Euonymus fortunei ‘Harlequin’

Vinca major

Rubus tricolor

Plants on sloping ground are prone to drying out much quicker than traditional
borders, therefore plant individuals in horizontal pockets and water liberally.
Using a geotextile mat (coir or similar) will aid soil stability in the early
days of a new planting whilst incorporation of organic matter within the soil
will aid further strong growth.

Grass on steep slopes is not advisable due to the difficulty of
maintenance, however wildflower seed mixtures developed for the purpose can
provide a beautiful alternative and add further interest to the area.

Lovely answers! Question 5 is for Designscape again.

Q5) @tishmax wants a minimalist look in the garden and has thought of structural grasses but tall grasses can look tired/messy - what types should they be considering for an clean overall look?

Question 6 is for Janine Pattison Studios.

Q6) @hellbook and @handytel have a driveway and front garden that needs decorating with plants that won’t take up too much space and won’t obstruct views - what are some good options that look small and elegant?

A1: Armenia Maritime, Crambe cordifolia, Griselina littoralis, Euonymus japonicas, Pinus nigra, Juniper (Juniperus communis), Holly (Ilex aquifolium), Willow (Salix purpurea), Sea Buckthorn, Rosa rugose, Hawthorn, Eleagnus x ebbingei.

A5) grasses are my favourite garden plants - I have been known to be a 'grass trainspotter'!!!

Thanks Laara! Next Question is for you:

Q4) @ramzan1 wants to create a moroccan/spanish inspired courtyard with tiles and container plants but is worried about waterlogging and frost damage to the tiles here in the UK - will they have problems and is it a good idea to pave the whole garden?

A5) Grasses are my all-time favourite
garden plants, featuring widely in all my planting schemes but especially those
of a modern minimalist style. There is a grass for every situation, but some of
the best tall ornamental grasses that retain their structure all year round are
from the Miscanthus family in my opinion.

Ranging from 500-600mm up to 2.5m
these plants are known as ‘warm season grasses’, preferring to grow more
strongly once ambient temperatures reach the higher levels of late spring and
summer. Try Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’ or ‘Morning Light’ for solid
structure and fine leaf form up to 2.0m high, whilst Miscanthus sinensis ‘Marlepartus’
has a much thicker leaf and more bamboo like structure.

For earlier structure in the
minimalist garden try the designers favourite ‘cool season grass’,
Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ – up to 1.5m high with erect flower
plumes this tight grass is in full growth early in spring and stops growth as
the summer heat arrives. They look stunning in bold groups of their own type or
alternatively as statement height in a mixed perennial border. The variegated
form ‘Overdam’ is a smaller version with added foliage interest that is
becoming more popular.

Both types of grass mentioned have
a striking and tidy dormant look that comprises bleached stems and leaves,
strong and more than capable of withstanding the effects of a harsh winter.
They look fantastic in the frost and only require cutting back to ground level
in March before the new growth appears.

Q6)
I always think that driveways and front gardens need to be low maintenance but look good all year round. So I always recommend a range of evergreen shrubs to provide interest and structure. Evergreen shrubs like box, hebe, daphne, euonymus, viburnum davidii and skimmia are great and don't get too large. Hebes also flower to give some additional interest in the summer.
These shrubs only need clipping once each year to keep them a good shape and stop them getting too large.
Adding some herbaceous perennials will introduce extra colour and good ones to consider are sedum, helenium, rudbeckia and echinacea.
I really like the evergreen ornamental grasses which have become popular over recent years. Grasses like Carex 'Evergold' are great at the front of a border as they stay quite small even after several years.
A few spring-flowering bulbs like narcissus will give you a nice shot of colour early in the year just when it's really needed.
Avoid planting any deciduous shrubs in your front garden - they look dead in the winter and can be a bit depressing.
Good luck with your project!

A4: Drainage:

I recommend that you use a recommended contractor to undertake the work and that the drainage of the courtyard is discussed prior to any work commencing. There will need to be what is called as the `fall` on the tiling ( or paving ) to a drainage point which has a route to drain away. The fall is a slight incline on the tiling or paving which allows any water, rain etc to collect at a drainage point. These works must be agreed with your contractor as to what exactly is required.

Concerning the tiles:

You need to ensure the tiles you choose are exterior grade and frost resistant for the UK . Their installation needs to be using exterior materials with adequate preparation underneath which would also include ensuring that no tile become loose which can cause movement, rocking and splitting or breakage. The pointing material between the tiles would need to be exterior grade also and tailored to be suitable for the tile.

Again a quality landscape contractor would be the best option for installation works.

Next question is for Laara.

Q7) @JayGobold & @jenniferb1986 need help getting the ball rolling on their tiny courtyards which need sprucing up - where would you suggest they start?

Thanks for your last answer Designscape. Got another question for you:

Q8) @JackieBourne has a garden with one South-facing border and one North-facing border - how can she create a balanced and cohesive space with plants if one side is shade-loving and the other sun-loving? (She loves structural plants!)

And another one for Janine from a few of our users:

Q9) @KarenCutler, @squares5, @sarahcourtney11 struggle with a windy location! What are a few planting solutions that act as wind barriers and could be planted next to the house without damaging its foundations and obstructing views?

A8) This
sounds like a very typical concern in many gardens that I visit, how to develop
a cohesive garden design and rhythm to a planting in spite of its multiple
aspects? Structural plants may be the key here, in particular Buxus
sempervirens (Box), which grows in every extreme of light and shade providing
it has sufficient moisture.

Use
clipped Box forms throughout the garden planting in both North and South facing
borders to create balance, team these with a larger specimen tree in both
borders such as Carpinus betulus (Hornbeam). Understory planting can be
selected to reflect colour themes in both borders whilst there are a number of
very useful all-rounders that I like to consider for any situation:

Any of
the hardy Geraniums

Ceratostigma
plumbaginoides

Hemerocallis
spp.

Hellebores

Gillenia
trifoliata

You can create balanced height and visual
weight and balanced color without using the same plants on both sides (Informal
balance vs formal balance). Using plants of similar form and size will also
help to establish a sense of balance throughout the planting scheme whilst plants
are selected for their aspect needs.

A7) This really depends upon what is in the existing place and how you want it to look. Yet a spring clean of the space could be a good start. If you have paving then a jet wash or good scrub the clean the stone, tile or paving. However you must ensure you do not damage the material in the process. Clearing out any existing planting or debris so you have a clean slate also.

I always feel the boundaries are important. If you have walling which is painted perhaps fresh exterior paint would be appropriate. Or perhaps you have old fencing which could be replaced or that needs replacing. If the current fencing is unattractive yet has to stay, bamboo or willow screening or new trellis can hide or soften.

If you have space for planters and already have some be limited with your palette and only keep ones which are ` aesthetic` and truly add to the courtyard. Often one or two large planters or vases dress a space better than lots of small ones littering the space. If the light quality is not good for planting, an elegant vase with no planting can look very good placed in the right position.

If the light quality is good enough for planting and you either have planting space in the ground or selected planters I would choose evergreen climbers or plants to give all round plant form. Choose plant’s suitable for the `light` and which have good shape and form.

A9)
Strong winds can be very damaging to a garden as they can cause physical damage to plants, they can blow plants over or even blow them out of the ground! There are quite a few plants which can cope with windy sites and they can be found by looking up 'Plants for Coastal locations' as that is where the wind is always relentless.
Plants like Escallonia, Fuchsia magellanica, Hebe 'Autumn Glory', Rosa rugosa, tamarix and sambucus are really tough once established. Consider installing a temporary windbreak of 'hit and miss' fencing or netting to help the new planting establish. A large shrub like Eleagnus will cope with the wind and will filter and slow it down making conditions much better for other plants and, of course, humans!
Consider planting several trees further away from the house to create a shelter belt to protect the house and garden. Be careful to keep any new trees several metres away from the house to avoid problems in the future with drains or foundations.

Question 10 is from two of our users for Laara Copley-Smith:

Q10) @LeanneGriffin and @Dee-AnnaChorney want to know which herbs and trailing plants you would recommend growing on a balcony? What are some decorative options as well as options that would block view of the neighbours?

Designscape Ltd - Question 11 is from @niallvsheridan for you:


Q11) @niallvsheridan has just built his new home but the east side of the house situated on a bank looks a bit bare - how can he spruce up a white wall without obstructing views?

Question 12 is for Janine:

Q12) @CarolWheatley and @old_boiler are lucky enough to get a lot of sun! What are some sun and drought tolerant plants for hanging baskets and the garden?

A10) Balcony Climbers:

This depends upon aspect, light and elements such as how windy is this location. Plus at what level this balcony is at.

Ivy is probably the hardiest. Ivy can also be bought as a `screen` grown on a screen in troughs.

Decorative options are evergreen Clematis and the evergreen Jasmines such as Trachelospermum jasminodes yet these will not be as resistant to wind.

Most herbs are not strictly trailing plants however a few such as the trailing rosemary may be useful and an option.

A11) What
a lovely new home!! It strikes me that one of the main long term concerns and
consequently the primary goal will be to ensure that this bank does not
disintegrate over time, whilst creating a beautiful outlook from the house.
Whichever approach you take it will ultimately be relatively costly as I
believe there needs to be some structural features integrated with planting. An
intermediate tier/terrace would lessen the oppressiveness of the slope while
ensuring maximum light reaches the windows, try retaining with gabion baskets
backfilled with a local stone – these can easily be softened with groundcover
or creeping plants such as Vinca major, Rubus tricolor or Cotoneaster
horizontalis.

There are
also some interesting erosion control methods to green up the slope and protect
it from degradation ie: geotextile matting and pre-seeded matting, this would
be applied to the re-profiled slope and instantly green it or allowing planting
within the fabric. A green outlook from all parts of the house and a solution
that helps bind the soil together as well for less cost than building walls and
structure.

Access
through the new structure/slope to the garden by way of steps would be a good
addition, with an intermediate terrace constructed for seating. Try to focus
the construction where it is most required ie: the steps and immediate
surrounds of the terrace/patio, the hard construction is where most money will
be spent.

Q12)
Lots of sunshine! That's a good problem to have. The best plants adapted to coping with lots of sun, poor soil and shortage of water are the Mediterranean ones like lavender, Rosemary, cistus, cytisus, stachys, salvia, gaura, thyme, sedum and phlomis. A lot of the ornamental grasses do well too as they come from hot, dry Prairie conditions.
Lots of our favourite edible herbs like hot, dry conditions so why not consider planting up edible herb containers and hanging baskets? They are easy to look after and you could always add a tomato or strawberry plant in there too for extra fun.

Most perennials flower best in lots of sun, so make sure the soil is nice and rich and plant echinacea, agapanthus, verbascum, eryngium, penstemon, rudbeckia, Perovskia and helenium for a riot of low maintenance summer colour.

Still got a few more questions to go! Laara, Question 13 is for you.

Q13) @gsmyth99 and @rosemarymacri have got blank walls in their back gardens that they want to decorate. They themselves have suggested wall murals and planters, what else would you suggest and are there any drawbacks?

Thanks for you last answer Designscape - that homeowner does indeed have a lovely home! Question 14 is for you:

Q14) User @Sven has a south-facing square garden that he’s looking to make less square - do you have any advice on how to add shape and form to a garden?

Janine - lots of sunshine certainly is a good problem to have! Next Question is up:

Q15) @gillstaziker has got a beautiful pond with fish but is having trouble with pondweed! They’ve tried non-toxic treatments but still no luck - do you have any advice on how to combat pondweed?

A14) Shape
and form are two of the key components to good garden design, shape can be
developed in various ways from establishing a pattern and rhythm to the
planting and features ie: interlocking squares or circles, flowing serpentine
curves or static blocks. In my opinion the best way to establish good shape and
form in the remodelling of a garden is through being confident to create simple
statements with your design and working within strong geometrical framework.

Establish
your preference and etch some shapes on the ground, a large oval lawn with
satellite circular patio – or contrast this strong curved form with a square
line to the new patio. Be confident with each shape and do not introduce too
many materials, instead use a simple palette in different ways to construct
walls, edges and surfaces. One of the things we do at DESIGNSCAPE is to design
the shapes and features of a garden quickly and instinctively before the more
laborious process of paring this back to the essential shapes and spaces – Good
design is simplistic.

Our garden is south west facing and we are planting down each side i.e. on the east and west sides. Would you please tell me which side of the garden is best for herbs (thyme,parsley, sage etc.) and which side for flowering plants?

A13) This may be led by the type of walls you have ? Murals look good in an overall garden space which integrates the whole space together. Just stuck on a wall may look out of context.

I would suggest climbing plants to be considered:

Trachelospermum jasminoides and clematis armandii are 2 great evergreen climbers. They do not damage the walls and most climbers will require trellis, support in some way. There are many fabulous roses, clematis also to consider depending upon the style of your garden, sunlight etc.

A row of one type of planter, say 3-5, which are stylish and all planted with one type of plant specimen can dress a wall well too.

Drawbacks:

Climbers need support, tying in to the support. Planters need watering yet all plants require water to survive.

Q15)
Pondweed is a really nuisance and quite hard to get rid of. The best thing is to regularly rake it out onto the side and leave it for a couple of days for the beasties to escape and then put it on the compost heap. Getting the water aerated by adding a waterfall or fountain can help. Running the water though a filtration system will also help but can end up getting expensive.

Adding extra plants like floating oxygenators is worth doing as well as adding a water lily to create more shade. It is too much direct sunshine that helps the pondweed grow quickly.
Make sure you use special aquatic compost for any planting baskets as excess nitrogen in the water will also encourage the pondweed to grow.

Once the pond eco-system is in balance there will be less of a problem with pondweed; so keep going with it and hopefully it will settle down in time.

Best of luck with it. A pond is a wonderful asset to a garden and great for wildlife.

Ok guys, just one or two more questions before we run out of time! Laara, Question 16 is up:

Q16) Next question from @lynda0345 - I have removed a large tree damaged by honey fungus - what do you recommend as a replacement that may be more tolerant and how long must the ground be left before we can replant?

Question 17 is for Designscape:

Q17) @Jaycw is considering getting artificial grass and wondered if it was a good idea and how to best lay it and get good drainage?

Janine - Question 18 is for you from two users:

Q18) @hollaw1 and @culturaldesign have small north facing gardens - what would you suggest they plant in shady garden for a country/cottage feel?

A16) Honey Fungus cannot be treated as far as I know. Once in the soil it will always be present unless you do radical landscaping.

There are trees which are rarely reported to be found with honey fungus such as on the list from the RHS. The tree chosen will depend upon how large-small you want this to be.

Large trees: Note there is no guarantee.

• Acer negundo
• Catalpa, Ostrya
• Carpinus betulus
• Juglans hindsii
• Quercus palustris
• Quercus rubra
• Quercus shumardii

Small trees:

• Albizia, Azara
• Celtis, Cydonia
• Cordyline, Davidia
• Eriobotrya
• Ficus Maackia
• Maclura
• Morus
• Olea
• Parrotiopsis Menziesia
• Prunus spinosa
• Sophora
• Stewartia

A17) We have seen a massive increase in the use of
artificial grass as an alternative to the high maintenance traditional lawn in
recent years. As manufacturers have evolved their products to represent
increasingly more realistic grass and the number of companies supplying the
product has expanded, people have started to see the benefits of reduced
maintenance and an all year round green outlook.

Drainage generally depends on the purpose of the lawn and
how well the existing ground drains. If you currently have poor drainage ie:
puddles on your lawn or, if you are going to have a lot of traffic over your
new artificial lawn, I would suggest putting in a sub-base of MOT type 1 aggregate
(available from most garden centres or builders yards) to a finished depth of
up to 100mm. If drainage is not an issue and it will be used for general garden
purposes, 50mm will be more than adequate preparation. The actual artificial
grass drainage is very good so this should not be a problem, however prior to
laying the sub base layer is then topped with up to 25mm of sharp sand onto
which the turf is rolled out.

A number of years ago it was recommended that we prepare
the sand layer by hand rather than machine to ensure a more naturalistic roll
to the turf, sculpting the sand with a camber from the centre to the edges of
the lawn.

Hey all, with question 7... We have cleaned up the area (pictures are on my original post in here) but need advice on whats next as it looks pretty bare. Please help.

Q18)
A shady garden can still be very beautiful. Think about what grows well in a woodland and use that for your inspiration. Make sure you have improved the soil with lots of rich, well-rotted compost to mimic the forest floor, then plant a selection of shade lovers like ferns, hostas, bergenia, ajuga, geraniums, tiarella, tellima, cyclamen, campanulas and anemones. Mulch the area after planting with shredded bark which will lock in moisture to the soil and help stop any weed growth. It looks really lovely too.
Make sure you keep the new plants well watered in the first summer and after that they should be able to look after themselves.

Wow we've managed to get through quite a few questions! Think we've still got a few minutes for a bonus question or two.

Designscape, Question 19 is from @AndrewSmall:

Q19) @Andrew Small has a question about garden furniture and lighting! He’s got an empty paved area (6m x 4) under a pergola covered in Wisteria. He’d like some soft, L-shaped, social seating without breaking the bank, and some reasonably priced pretty lighting solutions that can be plugged into an outdoor socket - do you have any recommendations for both?

Janine - thanks for your answers, how about one more question?

Questions 20 is from @Nuala MacCinna:

Q20) Our garden is south west facing and we are planting down each side i.e. on the east and west sides. Would you please tell me which side of the garden is best for herbs (thyme,parsley, sage etc.) and which side for flowering plants?

A19) Lighting is my forte this year as I have been very impressed with developments in the solar powered ranges, not giving particularly functional light but certainly a lot more powerful and long lived than previously. I would probably recommend some of the new plug and play LED systems that are on the market - connections that are low voltage and therefore safe to install for non-electricians straight from a mains socket.

Have a look at the colour changing options which give added interest and can change the mood of an evening. When it comes to furniture it is a case o shopping around - with any purchase there are 'good' and 'bad' products available and I feel certain that 'somewhere in the middle' is best.

Rattan furniture is durable and has come down in price with more stockists available, be careful of cheaper 'non rattan' versions which seem to lack the rigid framework. Hope this helps.

A20) The Eastern side of your garden will get the most afternoon and evening sun. This is when the sun is strongest and your herbs will love being here. Make sure they also have good drainage and never sit in water and they will reward you with lots of lovely growth.
Your flowering plants will also be happiest in the sunny parts of the garden. The Western side of your garden will get morning sun and might be better for foliage plants like fatsia and other evergreen shrubs.

And I think, dare I say it, that's a wrap! The Live Chat is now over but feel free to continue for any user that still wants to discuss. There have been some great answers and we've got through so much, I hope everyone's enjoyed it and can now venture forth into their gardens with a little extra knowledge and know-how!

Speaking of knowledge and know-how, a big big thank you to our experts - Laara Copley-Smith, Designscape Ltd. and Janine Pattison Studios - all of whom shared their expertise on all things garden!

Look out for a potential Ideabook on this in the future, and until our next Live Chat Houzzers!

Thanks everyone and Happy Gardening!

David Austin sells Roses without thorns

Hello donned2004,

Well you could remove all the things from the hearth.. So it has more space.. Hang the mirror and paint the chimney breast a nice colour to bring the fireplace into full focus.. If you wanted to have an even bigger recess.. you could open the fire out up to the sides of the wooden surround.. So taking out the 30's tiles.. Make sure the lintel is in place or doesn't need replacing and keep the surround it's rather nice.. Remove the current tiled hearth if you chose to open it out more.. and install a flat piece of slate.. So then you would have an open brick recess and a lovely iron basket could sit nicely inside for logs!

Another idea to continue into the room.. might be to look at painting the woodwork a colour to compliment any wall colours you have.... Some lovely painted floorboards, or parquet or a natural Jute or Coir flooring if you have not already decided upon something.. : ))

Hello donned2004,

Sounds like a plan and think the colours sound nice... I have not spray painted any tiles no.. Possibly look at painting instead a matt black colour.. but I don't have any experience to lend here with regards to tile painting..... I am sure someone else may have spray painted tiles and will be able to guide you through ease and any possible pitfalls.. : ))