skip to main content

Help us get front window placement just right for our "Barn House"

8 years ago

We're struggling over the right window sizes and heights for our new house.

Would you change anything? (Also need to consider impacts to matching door frame heights and the height off the floor of any windows)

Thoughts?

FYI: The transoms in the breezeway are there because behind the 2 right-most windows, we'll have lockers that take up the whole wall space below the transoms (we'll cover the double hung windows with blinds) but we wanted a way to still have some natural light in the mudroom. Then, to keep the look consistent on the front of the house, we added transoms above all the 1st floor windows.

Featured Answer

libradesigneye

8 years ago

last modified: 8 years ago

Add muntins to the top half of your double hungs. I have a single vertical muntin and like that. For your barn/farmhouse, colonial grids might be your favorite. When you do them only on the top half, you get a custom window look with little outlay, and they are historically appropriate for classic architectural forms. If you do them in the top half, carry any vertical divisions through the transoms too.

If you are buying high end windows and you can do anything you like, consider two verticals in the upper windows splitting them into three vertical equals. This kind of three over one is most unusual, but perfectly period correct for your home. I'm assuming you have 8' rooms and windows at 6' 8" top of (main - not transom) window to line up with doors. If you have 10' ceilings and 8' doors, then top of window should be at 8'.

Comments (33)

Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
Both floors will have 9 foot ceilings
Related Discussions
Help us remodel our house
Q
Comments (8)
If you want to maintain an open feel but improve the flow and access, could you install an entrance door in the outside wall of the WC (making the WC the main entrance hall for the house) and let the Store double as WC and utility? You could then do away with the existing front door, porch and stairs, take out the wall between the Lounge and Kitchen and install an open plan spiral staircase somewhere along that space (to suit the upstairs architecture). With all the extra space you have then created in the Lounge you could then afford to install an access door from the Lounge to the WC/utility.
...See More
Help with Windows and Front Door needed
Q
Comments (29)
Hi Minnie thank you for the help darling, yes we will mirror the right side porch brick column then split the as rest sidelights. Nice and centered for my symmetry obsessed brain. I think I know what you mean about the horizontal bars, especially as they would have to work with the panels in the doors and I can't really see how that would work. I am still fighting with the idea of plain glass though, not sure how I could get to see some modern clear glass leaded panels?? I have this strong gut feeling that adding a bit of detail to the panels will make the whole entrance feel nicer. Colour wise I think would rather have a little contrast especially as we have the garage door as well, but I'm not feeling the stronger colours. I am considering light blue from farrow and ball, too safe????
...See More
Window dressing for huge window right up against wall
Q
Comments (11)
There's another small one on the far end but this is the main radiator. Hmmm it's really interesting that your room is cosy as i've gone to trusty google and can't find anyone who says that radiators don't block the heat. It seems to be a big no no. I'm just so torn between function and fashion. I know it sounds silly. I think part of the problem is it is such a huge window that i would need more than one blind which would look a little odd. Then it isn't a usual height window in that it's quite close to the floor.
...See More
door and window help for our 1930's house!
Q
Comments (14)
A 1930s house near us recently replaced all the windows and the front door. They went for white windows and a dark blue door. There was a small side-window on one side of the door, and they chose blue for it. I think it it looks a bit odd - but I think white might have looked even odder. So I'm not sure what the right answer is! Would you consider natural wood for the front door? Then it would be 'logical' for the front door and side windows to be different colours, and you could go for the agate grey or sage, and then do the rest of the windows later. Many of the 1930s houses in my area have wood doors, and I think it would suit your house.
...See More
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
Any thoughts about the distance between the top of the 2nd floor windows and the roofline? Is it too much space?
libradesigneye
8 years ago
what height are your doors? 6'8" then all main windows should line up with that ..

single upper muntin
Modern Farmhouse in Rural Georgia · More Info

all the way through

Modern Farmhouse Exterior Entry · More Info

https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-farmhouse-exterior-entry-farmhouse-exterior-milwaukee-phvw-vp~14926040

you could do a series of high small squares in the breezeway with cross muntins like you see in this garage / barn red area (not as high as yours would be) even lockers usually only go to 5' or so - a 2' square window at top of transom would clear everything and light the whole breezeway
Charlotte Entry Garden · More Info
libradesigneye
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Colonial six over 1
Westport Farmhouse for the Modern Traditionalist · More Info

cross muntined uppers - and cross buck garage doors - must recommend for you

Farmhouse Exterior · More Info

here's the three over one i thought of when I saw your place

Ridgeside Vineyard Farmhouse · More Info

Don't worry over upper window placement relative to roof. Do consider chunky proportional trim and really search trim styles - if you want a very traditional home, there are sort of capitals required there .. .

Good luck!
libradesigneye
8 years ago
Also - consider metal roofing for the porch and breezeway only - here is a series of small high windows in a "breezeway" form . . though more contemporary than yours, it shows how different scale there can coordinate with classical
Bretland Road, Camano Island WA · More Info

or scale them to the top half of your double/single hungs like these garage area windows

Westport Farmhouse for the Modern Traditionalist · More Info
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
Strongly considered metal roofing for the porch, but it didn't fit the budget.
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
We're not going for a terribly traditional home, maybe a bit of modern mixed with colonial farmhouse style.
libradesigneye
8 years ago
Yep, I'm with ted on the breezeway windows - high square awning windows (if you want a breeze in your breezeway) would be more interesting in and out and more functional for how you are using the space.
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
Made a few tweaks from your suggestions (thanks!). What do you think of this?
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
We considered 3 identical square windows in the breezeway but would really like a lower window on the left (as this is the laundry room), so trying to make a double-hung window work there.
libradesigneye
8 years ago
I can see a barn arm fixture centered over the garages .. but I'd probably try to go for three . . centered over each bay . . http://www.lightingdirect.com/millennium-lighting-rrrs14-rgn24-r-series-1-light-outdoor-wall-sconce-with-14-wide-railroad-shade-and-24-gooseneck-stem/p2282268 http://www.lightingdirect.com/troy-lighting-b3222-allegheny-1-light-16-dark-sky-outdoor-wall-sconce/p2065319

http://www.lightingdirect.com/progress-lighting-p5723-brookside-1-light-12-tall-outdoor-wall-sconce-with-spun-metal-shade/p358121

all yield a bit different flavor .. .depend on the color of the house / color of windows and so forth . . I love transoms but agree that under a porch may not be as worthwhile since you won't get more sky / light . . . make a taller / lower sill window instead? or i've seen porches with skylights cut into them right over the windows just 1' off the face of the wall to wash sunlight down .. . .paint the porch ceiling a pale haint blue off white for a sky feeling .
libradesigneye
8 years ago
Stack two squares with space between instead of a double hung - get a casement so you get airflow from the lower window .. .and stack another square under the right most one .. it needs symmetry .. What is the height of your lockers?
PRO
SolutionSmiths
8 years ago
Looks like you are getting closer to your dream house. Two comments:
1 upper story windows have too much space above them.
2. I would put a second front door to your breezeway. I know you have plans for the interior but it is a long way from your driveway to the front porch. And most of your guests will be more comfortable having a place for shoes and coats in the mushroom area rather than the formal entry. How often do we formally receive guests anyway.
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
@SolutionSmiths - how would you solve #1? (#2 - we considered a door into the breezeway, but decided against it because it doesn't work well with our floor plan)
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
@libradesigneye the lockers will be 6 feet tall. Is it worth putting another square below one or both of the 2 right most square windows, if they will be covered by the lockers? (basically the same idea as putting double hungs there - like in the original image posted)
PRO
SolutionSmiths
8 years ago
are larger windows an option for upstairs?
for the breezeway maybe three of those square windows together would look nice.
It is going to be a beautiful home
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
@SolutionSmiths the upstairs ceilings are 9', and the doors are 6'8". If we want the tops of the windows and door frames to line up, I'm not sure larger windows are an option. Ideas?
PRO
Tatom Design LLC
8 years ago
I would definitely consider shutters on at least some of the windows to accent. You don't have to do many but a few adds to the look in my opinion.
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
@SolutionSmiths we were wondering whether having the roofline come down further to visually shorten this gap was an option. I haven't talked to the draftsman or builder about that yet. Is that something you would think was feasible?
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
libradesigneye
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
This gap upstairs is not a gap - it is fine. You will get more light in. Don't sweat it. If you want to spend your transom money upstairs in the bedrooms where the light will get in, why not? Otherwise, leave it alone - they look good.

Do three square windows 1' 10" square at transom height - from 6' 10" to 8' 10" spaced evenly across the front. Below the left most one, add the double hung 1' 10" wide x 3'6" high below with a 6' 8" top - the squares will be at transom height and should have cross muntins. The top half the of the laundry room window (sill at counter height - 3') will match it muntin wise. Then it will be fine that the lower window isn't carried across, because the three match.

Oops -just saw scale layout - use 3' wide x 1'6" high windows at transom height - starting at 6'10" aff - separate them differently - lay them out for outside instead of inside - with 7' 3 1/2 between all the transom windows there. The three foot width is sort of a challenge when you get to the double hung, which should be proportional to the other porch windows .. but let's say we stick with it and make it square instead - 3 x 3 there with a transom half high will total the proportion of the front windows from afar .. . buy a casement and it will look like a picture window - people won't be able to see as low into the clutter area - it will run from 42" above the floor to 80" above the floor but people are either standing in a laundry or hauling in and out - this way you have more fenestration than the other double hung and with the transom above, plenty of light. .
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
ted - we actually considered something like this for the mudroom (door in the middle, with lockers on both sides), but it doesn't leave enough space for lockers for our 6-person family, and it's more complex for the locker construction. And it's not important enough to us to have the door in the breezeway to make those changes.
Rusty Empire
8 years ago
Has anyone brought up the sad single window over the garage door? It is begging for a bank of 3 deep Windows identical to the first level Windows I spied on the the main building (under the porch). And flank the lights on either side of garage doors, not as they are situated now.
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
The light placement isn't final. The window on the garage is a double window. Making it a triple window might be worth considering.
Rusty Empire
8 years ago
I was intending it be a bank of 3 separate Windows to mirror what is happening elsewhere in the facade. Right now it doesn't look like it matches the overall design but was added as an afterthought.
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
@libradesigneye I'm not sure I'm following your suggestion - it got a little complicated. Could you draw what you are suggesting?
Rusty Empire
8 years ago
A couple of ideas for garage, but with 3 individual windows, no shutters. And a horizontal trim board to break up the large expanse. Cheers.

Shingle style home drive court to entry elevation · More Info

Larmar · More Info
libradesigneye
8 years ago
I did a quick look and my problem is the 3' width your draftsman/architect set up originally - when I lay it out, I'm not sure that is a great dimension for the elevation itself . . .

Think the three squares need to be squares at miin - to do that above 6'8, you are pretty limited to a 2' square - then you could do a 2 x 4 underneath in laundry .. .

I need to take the dimensions and look at the elevation in total - also, what are the window dimensions under the porch? Guessing - are they 3 x 6" or 2'6 x 5' high? those proportions will lead me to the right answer and I'll come back with some drawings to 'splain .. . .
Scott Paulis
Original Author
8 years ago
The windows don't have to be 3 ft wide. The first floor windows on the main house are 36"x66" (we might make them 72").

Regardless, I think we're leaning towards just putting 3 evenly spaced double hung windows in the breezeway (maybe 2'x4' or a little wider - maybe 2'4") with the tops at 8' and covering the bottom sashes with a curtain/blind of some sort where the lockers will be behind.
PRO
Chroma Design
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
These mudroom transoms are dictating too many, more important elevation decisions. Their existence is causing you to use transoms on the 4 main house windows, which are an added cost and do not lend themselves to, in your words, "a bit of modern mixed with colonial farmhouse style." They also complicate issues with window treatments in those rooms. On top of that, your mudroom transoms will provide very little light especially with the depth of the lockers right beneath the windows.

Eliminate the transoms and put in a skylight, discreetly on the back side of the roof. You will gain far more light and keep your front elevation more modern while saving money.

I would also give consideration to eliminating the two mudroom windows altogether. Perfect symmetry is not required. You could then make the laundry room window a bit larger, closer to size of the other first floor windows. The blank space on the breezeway would be smartly occupied by a trellis with landscaping. I imagine that to be far more interesting and have great curb appeal. And you have just eliminated the cost of two windows.

What guidance has your architect or builder given you for this issue?
libradesigneye
8 years ago
I think fighting the top of the door / the 6' 8" line is a mistake you would regret. If a sash lands there .. . then you have something, but that would mean they ran from 4' 8" to 8' 8" - too high to be good in the laundry room. They wouldn't look right from outside. I've got something I think you would like in practice best. Sketch wants to be to scale / that grid paper is in my home office since i'm out and about today. Will complete and scan for you in next 48 hrs.

What works nicely is 9' ceiling - 6' 8" top of door - 2' squares from 6'10 to 8' 10 and in the laundry room, a casement window with full muntins / no horizontal sash 2 x 4 below the 2' square - from 6'8" to 2'8" - then you will retain your classical proportions - since this one is behind the porch it won't "jump out"

Now, unlike your plan, evenly space the windows from the facade side - they fall generally where they should for the interiors - no real clashes .. a simple shift and the rooms inside are still good.

5'3" off both outside walls to the centers of the windows and 5'3" from there to the center window too . . (21'/divided evenly into four sections so the center lines land on the three windows)

so - with two foot windows, they run looking from the outside on left 4'3" to 6'3" then next / center is in the mud room from left 9'6 to 11'6" (2' wide lands in old window space) From inside - the center is high and in corner/ nearly like now then the last window - 14'9" to 16"9" - last one isn't shoved in corner from outside but 4'3" off the face of the garage wall .. in the mud room itself, it means the window is nearly centered in the room.

If your living room windows go to 8" above the floor (from 80 - 72). Then you will have only room for chunky base / truncated window trim below. Are you planning nice deep wood sill trim? 3 1/2" side and 5 1/2" up top with pencils and crown? 5 1/2" base mouldings? I think you would be happy with 66 and that allows you to trim it out fully, have some wall area for paint below / not just trim to trim tones. This can also help you not worry about anyone stepping through it when they stumble or critters coming over the sill. You'll want to be able to to do some fat window trim on the inside to celebrate the beautiful windows.
Nathan Lansford
7 years ago
I know this topic has been dead for a while, but would you mind showing your rear exterior view of your plan with the future addition. I have a very similar plan and can't figure out how to attach the master addition to the mud room with out some messy roof lines.

Thank you

Sign Up to Comment

Sponsored

More Discussions

How could I improve the look of front of our house?

37

Wall colours in a white gloss kitchen

23

paint colour for max curb appeal

10

what goes with red and black quarry tile flooring

10

Design Issues for new rear extension

8

United Kingdom

Tailor my experience with cookies

Houzz uses cookies and similar technologies to personalise my experience, serve me relevant content, and improve Houzz products and services. By clicking ‘Accept’ I agree to this, as further described in the Houzz Cookie Policy. I can reject non-essential cookies by clicking ‘Manage Preferences’.