Oak flooring HELP!
p_b_h
8 years ago
We are desperately looking for oak flooring that is quite specific... We need a matt lacquered flooring that is 18mm or thicker. Can anyone recommend some good companies?? We have ordered so many samples now and are needing to order the floor as soon as tomorrow for it to be ready in time for us to move in!!? Thank you 
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Comments (7)
PROAnonymous
8 years agop_b_h
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Flooring advice carpet or light oak flooring
Comments (5)Hello loubrad1973, I would suggest a wood flooring that continues from your hall into the living room.... Are the sofas next to each other for a reason.. You could split them up and have 1 in the other room? I don't see why silvery grey won't go with brown or plum... Have found a couple of cushions which I think you might like 1 is lighter and offers contrast, you could also add a bit of plum... I'd put 2 on one side rather than all the way along... Also you can add to the feel by finding a nice silvery grey plain throw.... Folded over one arm, or on the other folded over the back a little to one side or layer 2 colours... Dark grey and light silvery grey with accents of plum.. :)) ......See MoreOak Flooring Disaster - What Now?
Comments (12)Hello, sorry to hear about your experience. I'm not a floor expert but wanted to share my experience and thoughts. If you plan to screed the floor again, it might be wise to research how long the screed really takes to dry before laying a wooden floor because even though it is dry to walk on, there may still be moisture in the screed. If you lay the DPM, then add screed on top, the moisture only has one way to go which is upwards into the wood floor again. Why do you need the self levelling screed? Is it because the floor is completely unlevel in one part of the room compared to another? Just from my own experience, I've just had my kitchen, hallway and extension installed with engineered floors back in October. We had a chimney breast removed and this chimney sat on a concrete floor, the rest of the floor had wood floor joists. As some of the concrete floor was disturbed during the building work, the builder said he was going to fix it by filling the gap with concrete but lay DPM in the between the joists so the damp would not go through to the joists. When the floor fitter came to check the site, I told him this was the plan for the area, he immediately said the floor would not be dry in time ( floor to be installed a week after the concrete ) and said he would not install the wood floor in that area as it would take months to dry and the moisture would go into the wood. The existing concrete also had some damp ( not sure if this is normal ), he used a damp meter. The builder was obviously not happy with this as he said it takes 2 days to dry and there was a bit of standoff off between the fitter and the builder. The floor fitter said yes it might take 2 days to dry to walk on but moisture is still in the concrete. Eventually I had to get the builder to remove the concrete floor section and replace it with joist. In this situation I decided to trust the floor fitter as this was his field of expertise. My point is, even if you have a screed, I think you also need some DPM or something in between the screed and the wood that stops the moisture from rising into the wood. You could also go to some independent flooring shops if you still need to look for new flooring as they are usually very knowledgable, explain your situation with the screed, tiles etc and they would should be able to advise you what to do to avoid the same thing happening again. Did you have the floorboards floating or glued?...See MoreFlooring help - Amtico Form Barrel Oak Cotton
Comments (5)Hi Andrew, our supplier quoted for fitting - £37 per sq m (£15 per sq m smoothing compound, £2 per sq m adhesive, £20 per sq m straight lay installation). I would be interested to hear how that compares with what you have been quoted for fitting....See MorePlease help - oak flooring or engineered oak
Comments (2)Hi Chelsea, There are quite a few differences to think about, in general engineered is usually what we advice for most of our clients. This type of flooring will be more resistant to moisture and heat. Also, engineered flooring can be "floated" on underlay, whereas solid wood has to be glued or pinned to the subfloor. We tend to use solid wood when it's unfinished and do the sanding and lacquer or oil on site. Although solid wood can be cheaper to buy the fitting process can be slightly more expensive. Do check our blog which has more details: Engineered or Solid Wood Flooring Otherwise give our office a call if you need further clarification. Inner Space Flooring Team...See More- PRO
Anonymous
8 years ago 
T B
8 years agoT B
8 years ago
PROOak By Design
7 years ago
Lauren