Need advice on kitchen extension and loft conversion
Giles Codd
7 years ago
Featured Answer
Comments (16)
Giles Codd
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Loft extension dilemmas - advice needed please!
Comments (7)Hi Heidi, Having just done such a project (and learnt a little from it...): Ceiling heights: minimum thickness of a floor is around 200mm/8" but some of that can be "reclaimed" below e.g. by leaving the joists exposed. Above is trickier because insulation requirements for the roof mean you can't really do that much there; the distance between the outer surface of the roof ridge and the inner ceiling will end up at least 250mm. Do your figures. Regarding the steelwork, there are lots of technical options to build this and "all of them may be right" as in (not) needing a ridge steel beam. Have you got an SE (structural engineer) spec for it? You can talk directly to steelworks fabricators about this. Builders tend to buy RSJs from specialist companies whose business it is to "sell steel made to size / spec" - steelworks fabricators. Some builders like to "cut&weld on site" because it saves them time but workshop welding and steel preparation tends to have more consistent quality and is preferred by structural engineers and/or insurance & building control (the latter often because of the fire risk for welding work on small sites). So this may be a case for more questions to the builder ("who's your steel fabricator and would you mind me talking to them?"), or a 2nd opinion by showing the plans to a fabricator and asking them for how they think this could/should best be built. The technical term is to request a "method statement" - how will the steelwork be made to conform to design, comply with structural spec & building regs and/or constraints of property deeds, and how will it be installed (to satisfy site insurance and Health& Safety regs, and/or other provisions e.g. from party wall awards/consents) ?" On the fire suppression system: building regs part B (fire safety, https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/485420/BR_PDF_AD_B1_2013.pdf ) extensively talk about "means of escape" which usually are protected / made "safe" by the additional fire resistance hallway walls and fire-rated doors to the hallway/stairwell provide. Where you have open-plan, the guidance says (quote): "Alternatively, it may be possible to provide sprinkler protection to the open-plan area, [ ... long sequence of auxiliary requirements/explanations ... ]" And the devil is in the detail. Not the least because "sprinkler" isn't the same as "mist sprinkler" (let's not go there now, rabbit hole...). It's definitely worth pre-clearing the design / fire suppression method with building control, because once you start, having to "alter" later to put extra partitions in not only blows costs out but also kills the design. From my own experience - do not let the builder "just start" because ... they may hold _you_ to ransom if their (hidden) cost-saving provisions are felled by external agents/influences. With no roof on the building and neighbours breathing down your neck for potential damage or perceived risk, or building control refusing signoff unless major changes, you're in a pretty bad negotiation position. Building regs will pre-clear designs for you, possibly for a small fee. Good luck !...See Moreadvice on soil pipe for loft conversion
Comments (0)We have recently converted the loft adding a bedroom and an ensuite (floorplan attached) We have just had to sack our builder for dishonesty, substandard work and rudeness amongst other things. I just wanted peoples opinion on the way the soil pipe has been run in case there is something wrong! I’ve shown on the floorplan where it has been run, it does have an inlet but not an outlet. Would it need one? Thank you!...See MoreAdvice needed for our loft conversion!
Comments (14)You've got some tricky dimensions to work with there. So before you go ahead with a design, you may wish to contact one of the Concept planner's on here, who will help you see where to put things, work out the walk room needed around objects and help iron out the flaws before you build. Karen at OnePlan comes highly recommended on here. There are a few points to look out for as I see it. The width that you have left over from Bathroom wall to outside wall of 2887 isn't that long. A bog standard king size bed is usually just over 200cm with the covers and may be more. That wall also, isn't particularly wide, therefore, if you wanted bedside tables, it could be tricky to use that space. So, putting the bed on the back wall, which will probably look nicest has other problems. Easier to show in diagrams ( hopefully ). I can't see how big the nib is at the top where i've put a couple of Chests of Drawers . I know we couldn't manage without them. I feel the large window is too big, and if you're going to put wardrobes on that wall, then you need to make sure the window isn't to large and that you leave a big enough gap either side for not just the wardrobes, but also for any window coverings. You don't want to be pushing curtains in to wardrobe doors and not having enough room for poles. I'd make the bathroom a little smaller to get better walk room in the bedroom. Unfortunately, Architects rarely think about furniture placement, I personally think it's paramount in considering the sizes of walls, windows and how to live in a space. However, i've done many a build in my time, so I know the pitfalls. Concept planners will help you with all of these problems....See MoreLoft conversion or kitchen extension
Comments (13)Hello Jane. I cannot promise clever ideas but here goes. A loft conversion costs serious money as dos an extension. You have only just bought the house so I would first be inclined give yourselves time to grow into the space and learn how you all use it as a family. I would see if I could work with what I already have with a view to possibly doing major works at a later date. You have already explored the option of knocking through from the kitchen into the lounge. This is a good place to start. Cost is dependant on whether or not this is a supporting wall. I notice you have a small inner hall and under stair cupboard. Could you open up these two areas to enlarge the kitchen further? It would increase its size by a third. If you block off access into the kitchen from the hall you would create additional wall space for cupboards. For this to work you would need to move the existing door opening from the hall into the lounge further along the wall towards the front door. Locate the lounge to the front of the house and dining to the rear. It is a long room. You could keep it open plan or divide it with double doors set in a wall. Pocket or bifold would prevent them eating into the space. Or just have two narrow walls either side to visually divide the space. Not an arch, this costs more and you would lose the height which visually shrinks the space. Going back to the kitchen. You could block the rear door which would again allow for more wall space for cupboards. With all this wall space you could build a u shaped kitchen facing the dining area. You may have room for an island or peninsula. Double doors from the dining would take you out into the garden. Are you planning to demolish the outside stores? If you do you could install a window in the outside wall into your kitchen. Do you currently need the third bedroom? If you don’t and you lack space in the bedrooms for wardrobes then could you turn this bedroom into a walk in wardrobe? All these suggestions are relatively low cost in comparison to extensions and loft conversions. They buy you time because as sure as eggs are eggs you will change your mind....See MoreTulip
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoClaire
7 years agoSteve Burland Architecture
7 years agoWoods of London ltd
7 years agoGiles Codd
7 years agoSteve Burland Architecture
7 years agodoogie72
7 years agoSteve Burland Architecture
7 years agotamp75
7 years agonicolakwai
7 years agoCentral London Lofts
7 years agoBreakfast Bar Stools
7 years ago
User