Porch - 1930s detached house
Claire Mills
7 years ago
Hi - the porch on our 1930s home is in poor repair and needs replacement. It is obviously not original and I am keen that we replace with something in keeping with the style of our house but I am stuck for ideas. Fortunately we still have the original front door and stained glass windows inside the porch. The stained glass at the top of the porch is original I believe but badly warped and cracked.
We need to keep it in the same footprint and are limited in design as it sits under a bay window. If anyone has ideas or has replaced a similar porch I'd love to hear your thoughts.
Thanks.....
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1930’s detached - renovation ideas?
Comments (13)Have a read of this article which may help you determine the age. https://hmlandregistry.blog.gov.uk/2018/01/26/how-old-is-my-house/ I think you will need downpipes at the front of the house but they should be placed on corners and coming down directly from the bay window to be less intrusive. If it is Edwardian the guttering would have been cast iron, if it needs replacing consider a good quality aluminium moulded replacement which is far more aesthetically pleasing than pvc. Congratulations on your first house purchase and project, exciting times ahead! We have a similar Edwardian house which we fully renovated and extended 3 years ago so I remember the excitement and the feeling of wondering what to do with it!...See MoreFresh ideas / new thoughts for extension on 1930s detached property
Comments (12)I really like it! In the living room, is that a radiator opposite the sliding doors? If so, it's creating a lot of wasted space. I'd see if it's possible to move it to the utility wall. That would allow you to pull all the furniture towards the middle of the room. I would also change the swing of the kitchen and WC doors. I imagine the kitchen door would stay open most of the time, and it would interfere with getting into the kitchen and sitting at the table....See More1930s semi-detached single storey extension layout advice please
Comments (14)Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew...See MoreReplacing 1930s canopy porch
Comments (1)Can you share a picture?...See More
Lauren
7 years agoOne other small detail while I'm thinking about it - the lead flashing on the tile hung walls, drains and damp proof course were traditionally painted black and I think this also helps give more original character back to the house.
Claire Mills thanked Lauren
Claire Mills
7 years ago
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7 years ago
Lauren