House won't sell!
Chris L
7 years ago
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Comments (24)
minnie101
7 years agoChris L
7 years agoRelated Discussions
What can I do with my front garden that won't cost the earth?
Comments (17)How about keeping the gravel as it is - it keeps the weeds down after all and is low maintenance but planting something like lavender through it - nice smelling, will soften the edges and required very little looking after except for a cutdown once a year - can't tell exact scale but 7-10 3l lavender plants planted through could make a big difference pretty quickly and inexpensively...See MoreWhat satin/eggshell to paint wardrobes white that won't go yelllow?1
Comments (5)Hi Nell51. I have done lots of painting recently and have used both oil based and water based paints. We live in a house with lots of conker coloured varnish and I too prepped it with Zinsser Bin. I then used Rustins water based undercoat to further obliterate the dark wood. The oil based paint I would highly recommend is Little Green. I have never used such good quality paint before and there is a great choice of colours (we opted for Portland Stone pale eggshell). I have also used Farrow and Ball eggshell (Shadow White) which is water based and therefore shouldn't yellow. However I discovered a whole new vocabulary of expletives whilst doing this as it was like painting with PVA glue. Even though I used the right brush and have a lot of experience of painting I found it awful to use. I then discovered a product called Owatrol which is a waterborne paint conditioner. You add it to the F&B paint and it increases flow and becomes more like an oil based paint. It is the best product I have ever discovered and worth every penny. My language has improved too. Hope this helps....See MoreWallpaper that won't fade or scuff too easily
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Comments (11)My understanding is that we had a penetrating damp problem in that area of the wall prior to the renovation - when we removed the tongue and groove as part of the renovation the wall just fell away right back to the brick. Presumably the external brick work in that area had failed pointing and as a result the wall became saturated. But this was hidden under tongue and groove for 20 years. That area (we're talking about approx 2.5m x 1.5m) had cement hard coat applied owing to it being stripped back to brick then top coat plaster. The other areas just had a plaster top coat applied to whatever was already there. So that area has more to contend with for sure when it comes to drying out - we have an area with potentially saturated bricks, then hard coat, then top coat. The condensation in the room is a secondary problem that is adding to the issues but not the cause of the problem. In that the condensation in the room is going to the problem area of the wall because it's cold. And as such the wall might be trying to dry out now we've had the pointing fixed, but the condensation is keeping it in a constant state of damp. Hence why the damp specialist said to manage the condensation and it will eventually dry out. I'm just wondering after being done for 8 months, and 2 months of managing the internal condensation environment, that we should call the job as well and truly jiggered and start again....See MoreSusan
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