keswing

Help with downstairs layout & extension

keswing
7 years ago


Looking for some advice regarding the re-plan of our
downstairs and a single storey extension (if required). We’re happy to use some
of the garage but not all.

The aim is to create a light and airy house with:

A Kitchen Diner with island or breakfast bar.

A Utility Room

Boot Room/Storage for coats etc.

A snug (in addition to existing Lounge).

Downstairs WC (keep existing if possible)

Another room capable of being a dining room/office or
playroom (this is not essential but a nice to have).

We’re not sure whether the extension should go to the right
side of the house and out into the back garden or to the front, or to the front
and side. We need to make changes upstairs and have a maximum budget of £50k
for everything.

I’ve attached pictures of the front and rear of the house as
well as the current floor plan to give a feel for the space.

Any thoughts on how we can best achieve this?



Comments (28)

  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Thank you.

    Extending to the rear is my husbands preference too, i was just concerned it would make a small garden even smaller.

    We also considered using the dining room as a snug and like this idea. The only snag for me is this would leave our hall unchanged and apologies as i forgot to mention this in the original post but I have a real issue with our hallway. It feels very narrow, the stairs feel like they are bearing down on us when entering the house, the space underneath is wasted as we can't put anything there due to the windows and the slope of the stairs. To make the hall worse the dividing wall with the dining room is an original 60's glass partition which although is great for throwing light into the dining room is otherwise ugly, gathers dust and basically get's used as a pigeon hole for paperwork, keys etc.

    Any ideas on what i can do? I'd thought about knocking the wall down and opening up the space and/or extending forward a bit to create a bigger entrance hall. My other thought was to knock down the walls between the dining room and hall and kitchen to create a kitchen diner and hall and then have a rear extension to the back which could be the snug?

    Ideally i'd move the stairs but that's unrealistic.

    Here's some pictures to show.

    As always thank you for the suggestions you've made, they've been really helpful to us.

    Kathryn

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  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    I can see what you mean about the pigeon holes...... it reminds me of a work environment. It is also interesting that architrave around the pigeon holes and a different skirting board under the radiators suggests that originally the dining room was open to the hallway. Personally I would take out the whole pigeon hole section to reinstate the opening wall and when budget allow add glass doors with glass side panels.
    I think the biggest problem though is the dark wood of the staircase and the dark plain doors. I think that if you had new spindles in white and painted the side of the riser it would feel very different. I imagine you will also be changing the doors.
    Lastly I quite like the green on the walls and I think that you can choose a deep colour for rooms with big windows but this particular colour might not work for you and in a different colour this room could feel less oppressive.
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Based on your comments, do you think either of these ideas might work? The plans are a bit dodgy but hopefully give you get the idea.

    Btw, the doors will be staying (I actually like them?? :-) )but replacing the spindles or painting the staircase is definitely an option.

    I've shown a couple of photos of the existing porch and the view out to the front. Personally, I don't think if we decided to create the porch space into a small front (flat roof) extension in order to open up the hall that it would impact the frontage significantly as we'd replicating what's already there but just filled in?? Do you disagree?

    I've shown the view as i think this is a key feature of the house and should be made the most of if possible. Having glass doors as you suggest would be great to make the most of the view and throw light around the house, but think this wouldn't work if the room were a snug.

  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    Doors- oops..... early this morning (pre coffee) I mistook them for the original sapele doors.
    Both of your plans show a sideways extension and removing a large part of the main wall which would add significantly to the cost.
    You have also shown extending into the garage which means that your family house would no longer have a garage big enough to put a car into.
    The first plan shows no hallway- this causes some issues with fire regs and personally I don't like a wc off a kitchen. This may also add significantly to the cost as you even if there are no structural reasons for the wall to stay you would have to make good a lot of ceiling and replan all the lighting and move rads and electrics and replace flooring- given the cost I would build a bigger extension so it is easier to see where the money has gone.
    Extending under the porch area- (despite my reservation that it diminishes part of the original architecture) this could work but since it will only gain you 3' for a likely £4K spend I wouldn't spend any money on this at this time.
    Personally I would put a 5x4m extension on the back - off the kitchen and open up the kitchen and this room to each other.
    Personally I wouldn't take down the wall between the kitchen and dining room because I think that it reduces wall space in the kitchen and in my opinion it is better to connect the kitchen to the garden than a snug.
    As far as the dining room being a snug with glass doors to the hall...... kinda depends on if you want the world to see what is in there.... you could have Eames chairs, and a neatly accessorized glass coffee table and then glass doors would be great. If you want a casual room then you could frost the glass. Personally I would use the bigger living room all of the time and keep the former dining room as a posh sitting room for when entertaining with two sofas facing each other
    keswing thanked Jonathan
  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    So I was thinking..... you could make the cloakroom bigger to accommodate the washing machine. Or you could put the washing machine upstairs where all the dirty washing is generated
    keswing thanked Jonathan
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    What you say makes a lot of sense, i hadn't considered any of the practical aspects of the renovation such as the fire regs, making good ceilings, moving of electrics etc. I've watched too many grand design programs and lost sight of reality and budget!

    I really like your plan and your ideas for the making the former dining room would work for us. The only issue I have is that the current hall cupboard is inadequate for the family's Imelda Marcos's collection of shoes, coats and school bags, plus we live in the country and have a dog (that loves jumping in puddles) so i really wanted to try and squeeze in a utility/bootroom where everyone can get cleaned of without traipsing mud through the house.

    So, taking your ideas as the basis for the layout would this addition work or can you see a better, more cost effective alternative? (i really do want my laundry downstairs :-) )

    Finally, what type of roof would you envisage the dining room extension having? When we initially bought the house we spoke to a builder who said the upstairs windows were low so we'd have to have an orangery type roof??? Do you agree?

    Apologies for the number of questions and i hope i haven't exhausted your patience. Your responses have been great for new ideas and also for reaffirming my husbands original loose ideas!

  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Here's the plan which i forgot to attach to the post!

  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    Extension roof- yes flat roof behind a parapet wall with a roof lantern sounds great.
    Given that you could have doors to the back and side it may be light enough without the roof lantern probably saving £1000.
    Your plan...... don't think I didn't notice the additional £12000 extension you snuck onto the side!
    I think that given the budget a bootroom may be better achieved by taking room from the kitchen. You could also also make the cloakroom bigger for additional storage.... this would eat into the garage a little but there should still be enough room to park one 4.8m long family sized car in it.
    keswing thanked Jonathan
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Blimey £12000!

    This last plan looks great, it ticks all the boxes and hopefully with your suggestion to paint the staircase and replace the 60's glass monstrosity I may even learn to love our hallway - the day i get to smash down that glass relic will be a very happy one!

    Thanks once more for your guidance both with our upstairs and downstairs layouts, your practical ideas and costings have been so so helpful. I finally feel confident we have an achievable plan to take forward. I'm laughing now at some of the ridiculous ideas and plans I started out with (but thankfully never showed you)!

    This site is brilliant and you are a credit to it.

    Kathryn

  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    Yes an extension of about 10 x 6' is about 6.5 square meters. You should budget £1500 per square metre plus 20% VAT which is where the £12k comes from. Depending on where you are in the U.K. you may be able to get this cost down but it might be more if there are idiosyncrasies with the plot that necessitate complex groundworks.
    A 13' square extension to your kitchen will likely cost £30(ish).
    Thank you for the complement about my efforts.... at heart I just like telling people what to do!
    You have some next steps- you need to get some firm costs from a builder, get some guidance from your planning department, you might even consider if a designer could help you with procurement. You should also look at what type of kitchen you can buy with the likely remaining budget and perhaps even consider if it is possible to increase the budget.
    What ever you decide I wish you best of luck and hope you come back for more advice when you need it.
    keswing thanked Jonathan
  • yvonne1958
    7 years ago

    The only point I would make is that with a muddy dog it may make life easier if you can access the boot room directly from the garage

  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Jonathan, sorry back sooner than i thought with a couple of questions and advice!

    It's not shown on the floor plans, but we have about 3 meters to the side of our house. I've been doing some measuring this morning and i wonder if the plan would produce an extension which is kind of stuck in the middle of the garden and with space to the side of the house which can't really be used for anything (not that i can't think of anyway)? Happy for you to tell me differently, but I wondered if it would be better to go out as you suggest but then take the extension to the side to make it wider rather than longer?

    I've attached pictures of the garden which may better show what i'm trying to explain..

    Also would you render the extension with something or attempt to match the brickwork?

  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    Ok..... couple of questions- if you look out of your kitchen window which direction are you facing? West/North/South?
    What is the sunniest part of the garden?
    Is your back garden over looked?
    Do any of the neighbours trees shadow the garden?
    Is your boundary the picket fence shown on the picture?
    Is there another house or anything else behind?
    There seems to be a strip of land beyond the picket fence- is that yours?
    Do you have an oil tank or septic tank that needs to be considered?
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Ok..... couple of questions- if you look out of your kitchen window which direction are you facing? West/North/South? 233 SW

    What is the sunniest part of the garden? Where the table and chairs are.
    Is your back garden over looked? No
    Do any of the neighbours trees shadow the garden? Not all the time but in the evening the house at the back has a large tree which casts a shadow over the lawn
    Is your boundary the picket fence shown on the picture? Yes
    Is there another house or anything else behind? There are gardens adjoining our garden on all sides. The house adjacent to picket fence is about 3 meters at least from the fence.
    There seems to be a strip of land beyond the picket fence- is that yours? Not sure where you mean but within the back garden our boundary to the side is the picket fence, at the back it's a fence with laurels behind (belonging to the neighbours) which runs the full width.
    Do you have an oil tank or septic tank that needs to be considered? No

    BTW, the length of the garden from kitchen window to the back boundary is about 10 meters.

    I'm sorry i don't have any pictures facing out from the kitchen window. Perhaps these help show how the house sits between neighboring properties, i can take a proper photo when it's light if necessary.

    The boundary ends immediately behind the far hawthorn tree (to be removed)

    Attempt to show boundary to the right and distance to neighbours property

    How we are positioned between properties to left and rear

  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    Extension- you could plan it wider and less deep as shown.
    Personally I prefer not to see the extension when looking at the front of the house.
    I think matching bricks will now be impossible. Lots of materials will go with the brick- I like the idea of a dark coloured render.
    You could also consider a monopitched roof.
    Lastly I think that you can make your garden seem wider by better screening on the picket fence side, placing the patio furniture near to the boundary so your sight lines are longer. I also think a circular lawn helps trick the eye into thinking the garden is deeper.
    keswing thanked Jonathan
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Thank you. Having spoke with a builder, in our area they work to £1000 per square metre so it may be possible to squeeze a bit more depth and go wide. If not either plans you have suggested could work. With plan one i was thinking i could put a shed in the redundant space to the side and use the area to keep the bins out of sight or even hang the washing where no one can see it. Thanks for the render ideas, I really like the style of image 1 and 2.

    Thoughts on garden is that we may do away with a lawn at the back as we have plenty at the front and instead we would use large planters with bamboo, grasses etc to soften the feel and create different areas.

  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    Great news that you have found a reasonable builder.
    This could free up some much needed funds for the kitchen. When you start to price it up you will see that figures mount up. Don't forget to consider the cost of all the appliances you will want, worktops, flooring, lights and window treatments.
    Lots of independent kitchen retailers will match or beat what is available from the national names- just be clear about your budget when you first start working with them.
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Jonathan, just looking for a bit of process advice please.

    Based on your suggestions we are going to look at extending to the rear 4m x 5m and if we can afford to we may extend wider or to the side to fill the redundant space at the side.

    I'm now in a bit of a pickle as to what we should be doing next. Should we be getting a draughts person or architect to draw up the basic plan in order to get builder quotes? Or should we just show the builder some paper drawings (like yours) and get a feel for price? I'm worried if we go to the expense of an architects drawings first and then realise we can afford more or can't afford what we want then we will have to pay out again for other drawings!

    Also should we get (if budget allows) a kitchen designer to design the space before the architects drawings so that they can draw on the plans the plumbing and electrics.

    I feel a bit confused by how a builder can give a firm quote when we don't know where electrical outlets and plumbing need to be but also until we speak to a builder we don't really know what we can afford and architects scare me because of the expense - hope that makes sense!!

  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    1/ speak to the planning office to find out your local regulations and what you will need for planning permission. In some areas planning is restrictive and you will need an architect with experience and relationships with the local planners.
    Most likely the planning process is simple and you will need drawings that a competent builder could arrange for a lower cost than an architect. You need to establish how long this process is and the fees you will pay for regs.
    2/ get the builder to help you with what he needs for a quote because he probably doesn't need to know fine details such as socket positions. It might be worth him checking drains, electric fuse box and you getting a quote for every bit of work you want him to take on which includes an additional soil pipe for the bathroom (as this drain will be installed at the same time as the extension. He likely has plumbers and tilers, kitchen fitters he can help with.
    You should also ask for build time and references (ask to see work completed) In my experience you can have a quick job, a quality job or a cheap job - at best you may get two out of three.
    3/ speak to a designer about your kitchen- it may influence your plans for window positions, the size of piers, the height of your RSJ, number of lights needed, radiator position before you finalise your plan.
    4/ book a build slot with the builder and apply for planning.
    5/ have a good clear out- consider putting stuff in storage for a few months because it is going to get dusty and less stuff in the house means less to clean up after the builders finish.
    keswing thanked Jonathan
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    That's really helpful and makes sense. My head had started to spin with what I should do. Thanks again for sharing you knowledge.

  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Hi there, I've a couple of questions about our downstairs redesign/extension. As you may recall we have a 50K budget, costs in our area are £1k per sq meter. We've decided to prioritize the ground floor changes and do the upstairs alterations at a later date (unless the quotes allow for everything to be done but that's doubtful based on your previous comments. The plan i'd like to pursue is this one which is something you suggested (but I've added the side entrance!)

    We've since had a chartered architectural technologist & building engineer around, he gave nothing away in terms of design ideas(but guess he won't till he's paid), showed us his portfolio and quoted £1500 for planning and building drawings, including 3D modelling. Another plan drawer recommended by a builder quoted between £500 and £750 depending on the number of revisions, he'll do planning and building drawings and provide us with design ideas although i can't see that he's chartered and he doesn't have a website. I suppose he could work by recommendation, the builder is well regarded so can't imagine him recommending someone incompetent.

    My questions are: Is £1500 reasonable and based on us having a bit of a plan already is there really much more value to be gained from paying an extra £750 for the architectural technologist? It feels like a gamble because we don't know what either are going to suggest and we already have some idea based on the feedback from this site. We're worried if we don't payout we might have a big 'What if...' at the end of it but equally concerned how much design is required for what we are trying to achieve.

    Thanks

    Kathryn

  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    So I would look at your £50k budget and work backwards taking off the cost of finishing the ground floor. Consider the kitchen, appliances, flooring, fees, furniture, soil pipe for the future bathroom renovations, contingency etc then you know how much money is available and this will dictate the size of the extension possible.
    Since the budget is so tight the extra cost of the technician may be pushing things but other people on this site may have reasons why you would pay this.
    Perhaps the thing to do is use this site to find a good layout for your extension and then instruct the cheapest CAD specialist you can find to provide plans.
    I enclose one idea for the layout- if it were my house I would want a bigger kitchen than dining room and personally I don't see the need for a sofa in the dining area when there will likely be kitchen stools and dining chairs, plus all the seating in the snug and main living room.
    Lastly there are lots of different possible layouts and the most cost effective way of exploring these is with a concept planner or designer- an hourly rate for inspiration can often be cheaper than the fixed fee of architects whose service will also deal with practicalities of drainage, roof pitches and presenting everything for the planners
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Thank you.

    I will start the costing work asap.

    I like your layout and can see this would work better than the previous one. What is the item at the side, it looks like a bath??

    I've been taken aback by the sheer number of options in terms of architects, technologists, concept planners, CAD specialists etc. Working out which I need and will be most cost effective. I'm thinking the technician who did everything including kitchen design, planning & building drawings (including 3D) may be the easiest approach, so that he can consider everything and I won't suddenly discover I need to pay someone else for something I hadn't considered. Will have a think and perhaps contact someone like OnePlan.


  • Jonathan
    7 years ago
    Yes- that was supposed to represent somewhere for dog washing
    keswing thanked Jonathan
  • Claire Nicholson
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Hi Keswing,

    I'm not sure if this is helpful but we went through a similar (ish) process about 6 months ago and I found it all very confusing at the start as to what I needed from who and in what order!

    What I learnt from it was...

    We already had a very good idea of what we wanted (we got an interior designer / concept planner on board right at the start- highly recommended), so just used a local recommendation of an architect to do our basic drawings - we needed these for building regs and also to give to the builder so we had something to base the 'contract on'. We paid £500 for these drawings only. (For comparison we had architect quote for nearly £2k from a chartered firm)


    We also needed structural calculations for building regs and to give to the builders alongside the architects drawings. The builders needed the structural calcs so they knew what size steels etc to buy / install / quote against. This was £900 just on a separate structural engineer. It's worth noting our calcs were reasonably complicated and involved a site visit; had he been able to do them from the architect's drawings alone (quite often this is possible) then it would only have been £300.


    It then cost us £400 for all of our buildings regs submissions / certificates on top of the above.

    It's worth finding out from your two different quotes what they both will and won't include;

    Will either / both then require separate calculations from a structural engineer and therefore additional costs or is that already included in the quote with the architectural technologist?

    Does either quote include building regs and / or planning submission?

    Hopefully then you'll know that you're comparing the two quotes like for like and can also know how much of your budget is going to be allocated to fees.

    Hope this helps and good luck!

    Claire

    keswing thanked Claire Nicholson
  • keswing
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Claire,

    Thank you for the helpful information and support, it's good to hear i'm not alone in finding the whole process a bit overwhelming.

    I was under the impression the technologist included everything bar the cost of planning and building regs but now i'm not so sure. I will go back to both and get clarification on what is included.

    Thanks for the advice.

    Kathryn

  • Claire Nicholson
    7 years ago

    Hi Kathryn,

    No problem at all, I hope it helps.

    One other thing you might want to be aware of is who you (or your archeictural technologist) use for your building regs sign off- our architect submitted our drawings to buildings regs via a private company (opposed to directly to the council) who then deal with the council on your behalf. Whilst this makes the process quicker / easier it is more costly (probably £200-£250), so just worth checking at that point.


    Good luck!

    keswing thanked Claire Nicholson
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