Need help for a hall floor.
Nick Hanley
6 years ago
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6 years agominnie101
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Need help choosing where to put the hall way?
Comments (15)Hello again and thank you so so much for all your comments and suggestions. I read all of them and I visited our architect today. This is what we came up with. I think it is also what @nmshea recommended. I think this looks much better and is what we wanted. I just want to mention that we live in Cyprus where it's very hot most of the time so we need the big balconies and double doors. Also the small bedroom will be eventually a kids bedroom and not so much of a guest room but it's not that important now. So this is the plan with the last changes made. What do you think? Do you prefer L-shaped sofa or a 3-seater and a 2-seater? Thanks again to everyone who has commented :)...See MoreNeed help regarding hall door mat
Comments (2)Please do not cut into the wood floor. No going back afterwards. And yes it would ruin a perfectly good wood floor !!...See MoreNeed help with my beautiful original victorian tiled hallway.
Comments (4)We lifted our encaustic tiles and relaid them on a new floor. Most builders will say they can't be relaid as its too much work. We ended up lifting each individual tile ourselves and cleaning off all the grout so that the builder couldn't claim the tiles all cracked when he tried to lift them. It then took him a week to re-lay them but he agreed at the end it was worth it. Stick to your guns, I would either leave the floor or make sure you closely supervise the lifting and cleaning of each individual piece....See MoreNeed advice on hallway and stairs flooring please
Comments (8)Without looking under the carpet its hard to say. That said its also the last job you should do in the house. You don't want tradesmen (or yourself) trucking muck onto a nice new runner whilst plastering/painting/sanding is still ongoing upstairs elsewhere. Any house built before 1940 is more likely to have nicer wooden treads. Often they are painted white just down the sides precisely because they would have had a runner previously. Newer homes can be hit or miss - worst case would be if they're ply or similar in which case you're pretty much restricted to just re-carpeting. Are you able to check the stair underside if you have a cupboard under the stairs? At least that'll confirm if they're solid wood. I stripped my stair carpet a while ago, taking it up is pretty easy - you just need a little patience. A flathead screwdriver is best for digging out staples whilst I found wedging a metal scraper between the gripper strip tacks and the floor, and then again using a flathead under the scraper to lever the strips up worked best (see pic). Give the stairs a good hoovering and wipe down, then use some wood filler (sometimes referred to as spackle) to fill in the holes left. Finally sand if needed (and if you want a perfect finish) and paint as desired - leave the middle as it won't be seen and so you can walk up and down when its drying. It took me an afternoon to remove the carpet, staples and gripper rods. Then another couple of hours to fill in the holes. I used Dulux Once Satinwood on the edges after priming which is very forgiving as it only needs one coat and levels itself so you don't get brushstrokes. Only downside is that its oil based so you need white spirit to clean the brushes. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ronseal-HPWFN550G-550g-Performance-Filler/dp/B001GU2H6S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506440774&sr=8-3&keywords=ronseal+wood+filler...See MoreMisha M
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