engineered hardwood flooring

Linda Wilson

6 years ago

I am looking for an engineered hardwood floor that has texture and wide planks for my kitchen. Any suggestions?

Kitchen · More Info

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PRO
HP Rovinelli Architects
6 years ago
I'm sorry to say I haven't a good suggestion for you. We only specify genuine hardwood flooring; for tricky areas, such as over basement slabs, we turn to porcelain ceramic tiles, sometimes of the "wood plank look" variety. Best of luck!
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I have been a wood flooring professional for over 30 years, so my response might be more detailed than you want! I'll break it down into several issues and you can choose which bits might help you the most. Color: If you have children, a medium stain/wood might serve you better because dark floors show dust and dirt. Wear: A wood that has a stain on it that is much diferent from the wood's own natural color, will show scratches more than a wood with no stain. A matte or semi-gloss finish will show fewer scratches and wear. Composition: What is your subfloor and where are you located? Both these factors will help determine the material to use. Solid- This flooring is made from pieces of wood that are one solid piece from top to bottom. So, if you want oak, the wood is all oak. It can come from the mill already stained and finished (prefinished), or it can be finished at the jobsite after being installed and sanded. Engineered- Engineered hardwood flooring is constructed of two components, a ‘core layer’ on the bottom, topped by the ‘face veneer’. The veneer, or wear layer can be of differing thicknesses. The thicker the wear layer, the more times the product can be sanded. The core layer is constructed of multiple layers of wood which can be of the same or of a different species, glued together in a cross-hatch configuration. This cross graining provides greater dimensional stability, minimizing the expansion and contraction that natural wood exhibits when exposed to varying moisture levels and temperatures. It can come from the mill already stained and finished, or it can be finished at the jobsite after being installed and sanded. If you are going to install one area now and another later, you might want to choose an unfinished product that can be sanded and finished at the jobsite. You also want to ensure that you keep a record of the materials used on the first section so that you can match the second section after the color has changed. They will both end up the same (or at least very similar) color after a few years, but they will both change over time. The other way that you can ensure that they match is to purchase enough prefinished (which has the stain and finish applied at the factory/mill) material for both areas at the same time. For the best match, mix the wood from all the boxes for the first floor, then repackage the rest. Store it in a dry place until you are ready to install it in the other area. Purchase products and hire a professional that are members of the National Wood Flooring Association. They set the standards for and provide education for our trade. They offer certifications in installation and in sand and finish which oprovide homeowners further assurance of skill and competence.
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@ House 2 Home Design - The simple answer to that question is no. If the floor is installed correctly with the necessary expansion gaps at the perimeters then there should be no problem. Problems do occur when an expansion gap is not installed and this can causes the floor to swell upwards as the wood expands. It should be noted that the size of the gap differs from product to product and is concealed by the skirting. Another mistake which causes problems with solid wood floors is where the skirting is fixed to the wooden floor without leaving any tolerance and this prevents the wood from expanding and again causes the floor to swell upwards. It should also be noted that even with an engineered wooden floor an expansion gap should always be allowed. With regards to humidity, it is not that great in a kitchen area on a constant basis and I have installed solid wood flooring to rooms that are adjacent to swimming pools; now that is a high humidity situation! :-) In the case of very high quality solid wood floor installations I have often stuck the floor to a plywood sub-floor, however this is not a common requirement for standard residential projects. I hope that this helps.
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engineered hardwood flooring

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HP Rovinelli Architects

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