To clad or not to clad... (or maybe render?)
braindown
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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1950s External Facelift - Render/Cladding?
Comments (28)Hi Louise. In the end we merely added new windows and a new door. We went for a mixture of Sapele and aluminium to break up the width of the house. The windows are made by Smart and are the Alitherm Heritage 47 range which are supposed to a close match to Critall. We also converted our garage and matched the windows and use of Sapele frame as well as having a bespoke Sapele gate. We're still not convinced we made the right choice by adding two sapele windows - but we always have the option to add aluminium ones to replace them and they are not too costly. So - it's not 100% what we wanted, but for the budget we had we are very pleased. The garage conversion is very cool inside with bespoke ply shelves/desk and seating area as well as ply walls. It is a homage to Corbusier and his Cabana in South of France :)...See MoreRendering / cladding 1980's exterior?
Comments (8)Completely agree with Jonathan. I have seen a couple of 70s houses modernised fantastically in my area, both with some type of grey/grey wood cladding in parts. It retains the 'character' (I'm sure in 50 years time this architecture will be to die for!) whilst giving it a modern twist. I also think the house is very 'garage heavy' so I would get a really modern garage door (possibly wooden) and try and have a balcony above to distract from it. See this fab example... [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/how-to-modernize-my-mid-century-split-level-house-exterior-dsvw-vd~3882230[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/how-to-modernize-my-mid-century-split-level-house-exterior-dsvw-vd~3882230) This would only work if you extend fully over garage as Jonathan suggests, and would obviously require pp. Could be a fab master bedroom or upstairs living space if you did it though :)...See MoreCladding or render to front of bungelow conversion?
Comments (10)OK - so have been playing around a little with the sketches and come up with the below - the dormer on the side actually has to have a high level window (for neighbours privacy) so i think the pitched option may be feasible, which would allow us to emulate the cladding on the main gable end. I just need to talk to the builder about how much and the architect as to whether will need (yet another!) planning app to cover it? One other point - the roof is to be grey slate, am imagining that the dormer side would look best with something different from either the cedar wood or slates... it also set back c. 5m from the front of the house, so won't be as stark as the below.. maybe render that white along with the remainder of the downstairs?...See MoreRender? Cladding? Both? Help please...
Comments (10)If you look at the 'black band', there are two air bricks in that area, typically they would be just above the oversite (the floor foundation) and a minimum of 6"(150mm) above the outside ground level. So the front garden most likely was higher and has subsequently been graded down to the drive, the garage floor is much lower than the house which is more or less at the same level as the house next door in the photo. As long as a planter feature stays at least two courses lower than the airbricks it would be fine, and would definitely improve the appearance of the windows being too high above the ground. My specs regarding air brick placement might be a little dated as I haven't built in the UK since the '90s and regs may have changed but the age of the house looks about right. The black band is probably what is left of a bituminous painted plinth that used to be common on many houses....See Morebraindown
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