How to make our tired 1930s terrace look pretty?
Emma Smith
5 years ago
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What would our 1930s terrace interiors have looked like?
Comments (12)We bought a 1930's house recently in west London. There were a number of styles prevalent during this time usually falling into 1 of 3 categories - art deco (the one everyone knows about), mock-tudorbeathen which as the name suggests has tudor beams, oak iron studded front doors and often oversized fireplaces too. Finally there were the modernist homes with a focus on modern materials (think lino, curved glass crittal windows and tubular steel frame chairs etc. For me however its some of the smaller architectural details that I love in 1930's houses - lead light windows (sometimes with stained glass), picture rails in every room, 1 over 3 panel doors with high bakelite or brass knob handles and best of all original herringbone parquet floors! These are the things I've chosen to focus on in our house without going all out 1930's! Also as ASVInteriors mentioned there is also an element of arts and crafts to some of the 1930's homes which can often be seen in pretty entranceway doors/windows, quality inset kitchen cabinet doors/drawers, panelled cupboards and sometimes board and batten type hallways. I found the original brochure with illustrations for the homes built local to us from when they were first constructed which gives a great idea of what the interiors would have been like originally. Hope this helps!...See MoreBefore and after, 1930s house restoration
Comments (20)totally agree with you. love original features. if the window is original in the bathroom then you've done a great job showing it off as it wasn't noticeable before. Love the bay too. so did they use the original glass or did they just replica the design? my own house is an old house unfortunately it was used as part business before so has lost a lot of features. over the next year we will be putting up an extension to replace one that had been added and will try and start sourcing some original items to put back Into the house. will think it will be a challenge at times but looking forward to it....See More1930s semi-detached single storey extension layout advice please
Comments (14)Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew...See MoreDesign dilemma for 1930s semi
Comments (4)Hello. Wumi has made a good start. May I be so bold as to tweak it a little. I agree it is a no brainer to divide up the huge lounge however I wouldn’t block it off entirely. You may want to throw the doors open for a post pandemic shin dig! Better to retain the option by including fully folding back or pocket double doors in line with the existing between this room and the kitchen. Glazed doors,when shut, again like existing, would continue to allow twin aspect light to flow through. The utility and toilet are more of a challenge so I propose two options. Do you really need three doors into your utility? This has rendered it an inner hall rather than a functioning room. I would be inclined to block off two of the doors and retain one. I suggest the kitchen door. This would instantly double the size of your utility room at little cost. If you like to hang your clothes then perhaps install an old fashioned Shelia Maid or invest in a drying cupboard. You might now have space for both! Go with Wumis suggestion for the toilet. The inner toilet is the stickler for me. Even with Wumi’s modifications it just seems to be in the wrong place. Would you be willing to sacrifice some of the kitchen? If yes then move your toilet into the existing utility. Retain the hall door and block off the garage door. Then construct a wall from approx midway along the bath wall to the external wall. This would remove the kitchen door. You would in essence have a room within a room. The toilet within a bigger utility. You could run additional kitchen cupboards along the other side of this wall thereby compensating for the loss of space. You could then open up the existing toilet to create a bigger hall, always a bonus to have a spacious hall, or do as Wumi suggests but make it a hall cupboard....See MoreCelery. Visualization, Rendering images
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