What to do with this flooring?

5 years ago

It did look good but a messy paint job resulted in the attached. Attempts to remove paint have damaged the wood a bit and made it very slippery

1. Do we sand, reseal and varnish?

2. Get new flooring? - If so laminate, engineered or real wood - really don't know what's best

Living Room, Hall, Dining area and Conservatory

Thanks

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Comments (2)

Emily
5 years ago
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PRO
Italian Design Ltd
5 years ago
Hi George,

5 fingers oak tiles on first and last picture and pine floorboards in the centre picture.

consider the following:

do you want a new nice floor in your house (same floor all around)? Are you happy to spend a few thousands for material and labour?

If the answer is yes than I strongly recommend engineered wood flooring which is real wood and is much more stable than solid wood. Laminate is an option but it does look a bit unnatural.

If you don't want to spend to have a new floor then sanding is an option. Pine floorboards can be sanded again but it looks like your have been sanded already... Be careful because you can't sand them over and over again. Those floorboards are part of the structure of your home!

Sanding is of course the cheapest option but then you have to decide what to do with the 5 fingers oak tiles. It may not be possible to sand them.

You definitely need an expert to come to see you.

Let me know if you need more info.

Best Regards
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Hello, sorry to hear about your experience. I'm not a floor expert but wanted to share my experience and thoughts. If you plan to screed the floor again, it might be wise to research how long the screed really takes to dry before laying a wooden floor because even though it is dry to walk on, there may still be moisture in the screed. If you lay the DPM, then add screed on top, the moisture only has one way to go which is upwards into the wood floor again. Why do you need the self levelling screed? Is it because the floor is completely unlevel in one part of the room compared to another? Just from my own experience, I've just had my kitchen, hallway and extension installed with engineered floors back in October. We had a chimney breast removed and this chimney sat on a concrete floor, the rest of the floor had wood floor joists. As some of the concrete floor was disturbed during the building work, the builder said he was going to fix it by filling the gap with concrete but lay DPM in the between the joists so the damp would not go through to the joists. When the floor fitter came to check the site, I told him this was the plan for the area, he immediately said the floor would not be dry in time ( floor to be installed a week after the concrete ) and said he would not install the wood floor in that area as it would take months to dry and the moisture would go into the wood. The existing concrete also had some damp ( not sure if this is normal ), he used a damp meter. The builder was obviously not happy with this as he said it takes 2 days to dry and there was a bit of standoff off between the fitter and the builder. The floor fitter said yes it might take 2 days to dry to walk on but moisture is still in the concrete. Eventually I had to get the builder to remove the concrete floor section and replace it with joist. In this situation I decided to trust the floor fitter as this was his field of expertise. My point is, even if you have a screed, I think you also need some DPM or something in between the screed and the wood that stops the moisture from rising into the wood. You could also go to some independent flooring shops if you still need to look for new flooring as they are usually very knowledgable, explain your situation with the screed, tiles etc and they would should be able to advise you what to do to avoid the same thing happening again. Did you have the floorboards floating or glued?
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What to do with this flooring?

Comments (2)

Emily

Italian Design Ltd

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