Layout and renovation ideas please - 1930's bungalow
HU-970916817
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Jonathan
5 years agoHU-970916817
5 years agoRelated Discussions
1930's Bungalow Layout Help Needed
Comments (13)Hi Rebecca We are looking at doing 3 bedrooms as we have quite a few grandchildren. I think that room should be big enough for doubles, bedroom 2 would work out to be 2.9m x 2.4m and bedroom 3 2.75m x 2.3m so I think that they would be big enough, will probably place a double in Bedroom 2 and bunk beds in Bedroom 3, so don't think that we are compromised on size. My issue with the removal of the wall you marked is that I think that this was the original external wall of the bungalow, so would need a structural survey and involve quite a lot of work removing it. Am looking for an ex-display kitchen which will reduce the cost of moving the kitchen, am also looking for some reclaimed solid oak flooring for the Living Room, kitchen and hall ways (if anyone comes across any then please message me, we have considered keeping the kitchen where it is but we think that placing it where the current bedroom 2 is would give us a nicer kitchen and dining area. Thanks for your input guys it makes me feel a little more confident with our plans, we have noticed that there was a window at the end of the bedroom that must have been blocked up when they built the conservatory so my look a closing off the current door and opening this up and installing some double doors maybe bi-fold to open up the front room Cheers Steve...See More1930s semi-detached single storey extension layout advice please
Comments (14)Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew...See More1930s layout ideas
Comments (7)Looks like an awesome house - any chance of seeing a photo of the exterior?? I prefer the bathroom upstairs being between the two bedrooms on the right. Looks like there's already a shower there so just need to expand on that and get soil pipe over there too. I prefer it as it can then serve those two bedrooms easily - perfect kid wing! Looks like those rooms are a couple of steps below the rest of the upper floor and I'd always prefer to have no steps between bedrooms and bathroom. Could always make the existing bathroom an ensuite to Bed 2 and use that as the main bedroom if that was important, but I'd personally put two kids in the right wing and keep main bathroom for parents and guests (or third child?). Always nice to keep the box room for an office too - especially now! Downstairs, if you have budget to the extension you show then I do think that would be lovely - and plenty of room for kitchen, dining and small seating area. And having a huge utility is a real luxury so I'd be tempted to keep it if possible - then it'll be laundry, bootroom and surplus storage. Could really cut down on the size of kitchen you need if you can store lots of stuff in the utility out of sight....See MoreHelp please with 1930’s Kitchen diner layout…
Comments (20)I’m not 100% sure I have the dimensions or orientation correct - hopefully I have. I definitely agree with taking out the stud wall between the kitchen & hall. I presume you will replace it but further away from the back wall of the house which will lengthen your kitchen. If you keep your kitchen in its current room I think you could have your run of tall cupboards as proposed in the new kitchen plan but switch the orientation of the island to run in parallel to that wall. Put the hob on the island and you will look towards the dining area as you are cooking. Having the island parallel to the tall cupboards is also a more modern look. If you take out the wall between the kitchen & current dining area too you would have the scope to make that run of cupboards a bit longer too by taking them over to your double-doors. I think you need to make that whole space at the back of the house feel like one large room (kitchen diner) - which could be achieved by including some of the same kitchen units in the dining side. Are you keeping the fireplace if you keep the kitchen in its current space?...See MoreHU-970916817
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5 years agoHU-970916817
5 years ago
Jonathan