Wooden floor for dining and kitchen
HU-361103809
3 years ago
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flooring dilemma!
Comments (1)In our previous property we went for solid oak throughout the ground floor including kitchen, dining area and lounge - all open plan, and hall, the snug to make it cosy and because it was also a playroom with very thin walls between us and the neighbours we put down thick underlay and thick carpet (it was in the original part of the building as well which was cooler - not as well insulated). We had no underfloor heating just radiators and a small multi fuel stove which we kept ticking over - and it kept us warm until the kids had mates round who would leave all the doors open including the front door. We loved the solid oak floor ... osmo-oiled, down for 10 years and only just started to look a little worn and that was mainly where the puppy had an accident! Easy to clean cheaper in the long run than underlay and carpet ... we did have three sets of patios as well straight onto decking so a lot of wear and tear on the wood - cannot recommend it enough. With Osmo Oil you can sand down a small patch and re oil and it will blend in, I believe any other type of finish such as a lacquer or varnish you would have to strip the whole floor and re varnish etc. so be careful on your choice of finish. We could walk on the wood floor anytime of the year and it was never really cold like tiles ... but that would depend on if you had underfloor heating. Another thought is Vinyl ... we had been looking at laminate for the bedrooms in the extension (boys rooms), didn't want to spend a fortune as funds are running out and felt solid oak would be overkill as we had to put boarding down for work on the extension to keep going ... Anyway whilst looking at the laminate noticed there was now a click together vinyl - waterproof - easy to lay scratch proof - long guarantee etc. we questioned how realistic the oak effect was but when placed on the floor next to the sample of oak and these were both large sample sections we could not tell the difference, I think if we had not got underfloor heating throughout the ground floor we may seriously have gone for this. I am sure a lot of people would frown on vinyl but I think it has a lot of plus points, and has really upped its game - it is also used quite extensively in commercial environments. Good luck with your plans and I hope that I have helped and not confused with my added info. Please let us know what you decide. Oh and just remembered in the hall we had quite a large footwell put in and had a coir mat cut to fit - this took the worst of the dirt from little muddy shoes....See MoreFlooring for kitchen, dining room and front room! Help needed
Comments (8)Hi Jay, we agree that a golden oak could clash with your walnut worktop. But think you could still go for an oak with lighter or ashen tones. The shades below are understated so would be great for flowing through multiple rooms too. And of course, as they're lighter floors they'd help to keep your spaces feeling nice and open. Hope this helps! Raglan White Oiled - https://woodpeckerflooring.co.uk/product/raglan-white-oiled-oak/ Raglan White Smoked - https://woodpeckerflooring.co.uk/product/raglan-white-smoked-oak/ Salcombe Dune Oak - https://woodpeckerflooring.co.uk/product/salcombe-dune-oak/...See MoreDifferent flooring in open plan kitchen/dining/family room?
Comments (10)It will look fine, seen and done it several times. Key thing to remember is to ensure that levels between the two are the same, you don't want a lip running through the room or you'll constantly curse it when you're walking barefoot. Where the wood meets the tiles, you want some sort of trimmer, whether its a row of small decorative tiles, a border strip of wood, a sunken threshold etc Reason being you will have tiles edges against wooden edges and it will look messy....See MoreLVP vs Engineered vs Real Wood in a kitchen dining living space
Comments (8)Solid wood floor typically isn't recommended in a kitchen, the changes in temperature and humidity can cause the floor to expand and contract. Having said that my brother had parquet fitted 3 years ago in the whole of downstairs and it hasn't been an issue at all (so far!) . It is a large room though with lots of ventilation, extraction, door openings etc. Engineered wood is recommended however, it may still contract etc but only by a minimal amount and the small expansion gap left around the perimeter is sufficient. You would still need to mop up any spills straightaway and I would recommend ordering slightly over the recommended surplus amount. I'm not sure if this affects all engineered floors (or whether I chose badly so may be worth asking!) but I had a few knots in some of the planks which were "filled" by the manufacturer and over time the Hoover etc knocks out the "filler" which doesn't look great so basically if I was doing it again I would just discard any planks with knots in if you want the floor to remain looking good. i really like some of the LVT's but they do differ enormously even within the same brand as to what looks realistic. I might consider the architecture of the building with LVT, what period is it?, personally I would use the "design strips" between the planks to make it look more realistic. Is the kitchen already fitted? I ask as my mum had LVT fitted when she had her kitchen done and the planks just run up to the plinths on the units finished with a line of mastic which personally I'm not keen on. i don't think you can go wrong with a herringbone or chevron (which I slightly prefer) floor though. They're a classic and tend to make a space feel larger (your eyes aren't drawn to the straight lines of planks). I don't know the layout of the kitchen and whether you have an island but the pattern can tend to work in either direction whereas planks sometimes won't. I'm also not keen on "washing" wood floors too frequently but given there aren't pets that shouldn't be a concern. good luck!...See MoreRibena Drinker
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