Advice on improving 1930s floorplan please (without an extension!)
hmtay
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (13)
Related Discussions
1930's semi - small extension and remodel
Comments (24)We’re doing one sort of similar, our layout is slightly different as in the kitchen is a galley on the right hand side. The architect is doing plans at the minute. In your drawing, we’d be taking down the garden room/kitchen wall, dining/kitchen and opening the whole lot. A pillar will also be left where your kitchen entrance is at the left side and we’ll make a breakfast bar here. It’s over our 20k> budget to put in more beams and planning is more of a headache. We’ll see what the plans look like for this first though as this may very well change. We’re going to try for a utility also. The architect mentioned going out into the side driveway a little. I’d make your kitchen the whole back room area (cabinets on the far left) and make the sitting room a snug or even a utility room. I’d even widen those walls at the dining/kitchen doorway and you can put doors there for privacy if needed. Close up one of those hallway doors entering the kitchen diner. Have the kitchen open out into the garden for a feel of more space. Excuse the doodle ha ha....See More1930s semi-detached single storey extension layout advice please
Comments (14)Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew...See MoreSuggestions for Floorplan & extension ideas
Comments (10)Hi Melanie, Anne and Jonathan’s ideas both look great. If you go ahead with a loft conversion you could probably add a dormer extension without needing planning permission. This would add usable space with sufficient head height, and also add a great feature window to make the most of natural light and views. It looks like you would have space to add a full-size staircase above the existing one to provide access, which is preferable to a fixed ladder or space-saving stairs! From experience, I have found the biggest issue in loft conversions is the existing structure which should be considered carefully. As the floors may need to be reinforced with new timbers and even steels, and if there are any braces or trusses these may need to be removed to create a usable space but other supports may be needed to compensate. Here is a quick design that I came up with for a ground floor redesign. It’s smaller than both of the others but integrates the whole garage into the inside space. (This might not be suitable for you but i thought it was an interesting idea that you might not have thought of, and you have other great options to choose from!) So the living room is attached to the dining area, with the fireplace made double fronted. the back wall is opened up in 2 places into a kitchen all the way across the back righthand side. This has a fully glazed roof on the left to bring in as much natural light to the kitchen and living spaces, and a set of standard rooflights over the worktops area. The study becomes a utility with some space given over to a shower added to the WC. And the existing kitchen becomes a new larger study/downstairs bedroom. Here is the sort of dormer you might be able to add to maximise usable space Please let me know what you think. I have another to swap the kitchen and dining area from this version. And I wish you all the best with your project!! Phill...See MoreExtension Floor plan help please!
Comments (4)Given the orientation of your plot, I'd suggest the proposed footprint is wrong. If you lose the single storey part and instead extend beyond your double storey extension with a single storey you create a southerly aspect. Single storey further than 4m is unlikely to worry planning - my 7m passed without comment. It's two storey bits where 4m matters. If you extend like that, how about kitchen where your architect put dining, and add a utility beside where the loo is shown - juggle it about a bit if you can to use the existing doorway and either access the loo via the utility or have a small inner hall with access to both....See MoreStuart Buckingham
3 years agohmtay
3 years agoJ W
3 years agoUser
3 years agomargretg2
3 years ago
ranj kugan