Extension Layout

3 years ago

Hi we thinking of extending our kitchen dinning are out into the garde. we have already a little extension on the right hand side and it has a litt corridor and a toilet. The way into the this little extension has a small step (app. 2-3cm high) and my initial thinking was to block it off and have the entrance in the new extension. This would also give us some more counter space. However, my partner is not so convinced if this is practical etc. so I wanted to ask the community here what their thought are. I attached the layout for now and the potential layout for later. Thanks

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Comments (6)

Ellie
3 years ago
I really cannot make out your pics. There are 4 doorways into this space, where do they all go? Where is the door from hallway into the kitchen?

Also for an room this size it seems silly to dump a fridge in the middle of the kitchen, I'd have it well hidden/integrated and not an obstruction, assume whoever done the plans just plonked it there?
Des Lud
Original Author
3 years ago
Hi Ellie thanks for you reply. The hallway entrance is where the stairs are and the other entrance parallel to it is from the living room. I hope this make sense. we put the fridge there because we had to buy a new free standing fridge freezer because our one is broken down. We thinking of maybe replacing it with an integrated fridge freezer.
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Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew
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Thanks for your input. I agree re the kitchen layout in the first option but we are just struggling with that wall! Would you build essentially all the way up to the boundary? Or would you leave a slim gap to be able to clear weeds between boundary and diagonal wall? The roof is unfortunately a bit complicated as there is a shared roof over our existing dining room and the neighbours dining room - the plan was to tie in this existing roof to a new crown roof on our side so we don't impact the neighbours. If we went for a diagonal wall and therefore a non 90 degree corner we would probably swap to a flat roof instead of crown to keep costs lower.
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Thanks minnie101, fading is a good point. I think the bifold manufacturers do offer solar glazing. Not yet started on the garden design, so we'll definitely bear this in mind. We've got quite a bit of foliage not too far away. Big thanks for the link to SAP calculations. Velux offers something similar to this via customer service (e.g. recommending no more than 25% glazing and how to achieve that). The bifold has got a little wider in the design since we last spoke to them, so I'll check in again. Thanks katlucy, agreed the utility would be amazing for storage with floor to ceiling cupboards, but we're worried that it might look a bit intimidating from the curb-side and that next door's house would block the light from a glass door. We did consider installing a roof light and a climbing shrub on the external wall, which is a potential solution. Extra storage is always a good idea, I'll check the measurements.
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Comments (15)
I’m not sure how large or what age your family is, any / how many pets, accessibility needs for residents and regular visitors, budget, etc, etc – so I’m making suggestions somewhat in the dark. But I’ve made some ideas for sorting this at the end Re Wc I agree 1 x ground floor WC is an excellent idea, not convinced about needing 2 when 2 of the upstairs bathrooms are not ensuite (appreciate you don’t want visitors in your ensuite). However, I would place it where its easily accessible from the garden end of the house. For eg, get rid of the WC at end of cloaks – that way you could extend the cloaks area for more coats, wellies etc and potentially further storage on the wall up to ceiling (depending on how you lay it out) Re utility & WC reconfigure layout so washing machine is in insulated cupboard at the far end to minimise noise / vibration coming thru to habitable rooms. There is presumably room for a drain / soakaway there as you were planning a WC. I’m guessing you’re having a sink in there I’d recommend one big enough to be useful for handwashing delicates and for washing dirty items (including small muddy dogs) that you wouldn’t want to wash upstairs or in kitchen but that need a bigger sink than the one in WC. If sink is up near the washing machine they can share the drain. Having these and the units on the external wall will reduce & hide the pipe run. I’m presuming the new WC at end has direct drainage to outside? Re the snug I’d make a feature of the enclosed-ness for snuggling in front of the fire, whilst still having the necessary light. You could achieve this by having a part glazed dividing wall. Glass could be clear at the top to max light and opaque / decorated lower down (eg down to shoulder height for privacy when sitting). Check the up to date requirements, but I think its glass equivalent to about 10% of floor area. Kitchen / dining / living area List your requirements, for eg – Be realistic as to whether you eat together as a family or not – this may change depending on ages of your kids (if any). How often do you entertain? And is that informal or formal? Plus mundane things like will the recycle stuff go in here or the utility & removed once a fortnight or straight outside? Importantly, I’d suggest that you sit down and make lists – of what you would like to achieve by the end - be specific, perhaps naming up to 7 things. Get partner and kids to make their lists too and look at them all together. As the adults who are paying for it you obviously get the final say, but what this will do is help you to focus on what you do want / need which in turn will help a designer achieve that for you. And then consider hiring a designer and a project manager (unless designer does both) to organise and direct the whole thing – it’s a lot to do and lots of different elements. You may well be organised and motivated to manage it yourself, but do you also have the time and the knowledge? It’ll be exhausting enough ‘just’ being the client with decisions to make! Btw I’m a garden designer, writer & gardening teacher currently 1 year into a 4 year plan for renovating a previously uncared for house and large garden – I feel your pain and indecision!! Marie
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Ellie
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Your breakfast bar, are you thinking of stools? If there were to be stools, they'd have to be on the 'sofa' side of the space, but there is a door opening there so it wouldn't work.
Des Lud
Original Author
3 years ago
yes we was thinking about having stools there. I was also think about not a proper door more like a sliding door which slides to the right when standing in front of it.
Ellie
3 years ago
I think even with 2 stools there, and with a sliding door, it would still be a squeeze to get through.

I suggest you draw out the walls of the space on squared paper with doorways and measurements marked on and then have a look at the space and see what could be put where.

Have you considered your kitchen and sofa area swapping positions. On your plan you have the kitchen/island/dining taking up half the room - it is very unlikely you can fit that into a space of 5m x 3m, it will be super cramped!!!

If it was me, I'd have my kitchen down the other end.

In the space, you have a sofa marked in, is that all that needs to be in the room? A 2 seater or something? Or perhaps just 2 small armchairs instead?
Des Lud
Original Author
3 years ago
I did not think of switching the kitchen because of the cost implications (moving electricity and water) but definitely something to think about it. The sofa is only a thought but can be definitely be changed. The only think which is fixed is that we have to get a dinning table into this space and I wanted to have a play area for my daughter so if there is no space for a sofa maybe chairs would be better.

Extension Layout

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Extension Layout

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