door stripping - patches. to wax or oil?!

3 years ago

Hi there we decided to try out stripping some doors in our 1930s renovation project. They have come up really well - see before and after - but does anyone know

how to get rid of the patches?
would wax or oil help?
what’s the difference between wax or oil?

Complete novice here! Struggling to find answers on the internet. Thank you!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (7)

Sonia
3 years ago
I had a 1930s door dipped and I also have those oily marks. I actually used Matt varnish because it was the door leading from the hall so gets a lot of knocks. Wax is best for pieces of furniture and oil is usually used on wooden worktops.
Sonia
3 years ago
Here’s my door with oily marks.
Related Discussions
Painting mistake
Q
Comments (1)
Hi. You might be better reposting on design dilemma. Chalk paint is sometimes not all it is cracked up to be..I painted my bannisters last week, paint and wax took well and it looked a great finish. The following day there were bits of white showing through where it had reacted to the varnish underneath... The finish and number of coats on annie Sloan chalk paint for example I find depends on the colour, the whites are not that great imo or with my skills anyway! I suspect you're better off sanding it back to get rid of the blistered areas (not completely back to wood) and using a primer like zinnser but would ask the decorating experts.
...See More
Stripped wood floor in kitchen?
Q
Comments (22)
If you have worries about maintenance then we would recommend a hard wax oil. We supply Treatex, matt or satin finish. Once applied after installation (2 coats are recommended) it will last anywhere from 5-10 years. Also, great choice of wood flooring as if you do get the odd scratch that's noticeable, simply apply the same hard wax oil onto the affected area and it will blend the colour back in. For those deeper scratches then it's as easy as using a bit of sand paper and finishing with the hard wax oil again. In terms of insulation, there are a number of underlays out there that will help, make sure it comes with a damp proof membrane. Again we supply these from a 15m2 foam roll to a rubber 10m2 roll. Both have acoustic properties and the rubber underlay comes with a tog rating of 0.55. We hope this is of some help, if you have any other questions just let us know.
...See More
kitchen colour advice
Q
Comments (27)
Hi Carolina, Thanks for weighing in. I'm not that sold on turquoise ( I've scraped something similar off most of the skirtings and window frames in the house- see remnant on kitchen window) but I do like the blue glass cabinet. Possibly not for this room ( the interior colour is where I want the focus ) but for my bathroom renovation which is happening in a couple of months. And I'd forgotten about the splashback! It's weird how stuff becomes invisible when you live with it. I'll think about how I can tie that in with the dining table, chairs and possibly window frame. Though keeping it natural is a frontrunner at the moment.
...See More
painting over a stained doors?
Q
Comments (9)
I think the uses of primer and undercoat can be interchangeable. Hopefully this explains a little better: https://www.craigandrose.com/all-articles/when-do-i-need-to-use-an-undercoat-or-primer-when-painting/ I generally use a primer for difficult surfaces such as melamine furniture, gloss paint etc. or in your case it would be the knots on the doors as they have the potential for resin bleed. The undercoat is to even out patches and provides a solid background colour on which to paint the top coat and also to provide good adhesion for the top coat. A bit like painting on a blank canvas. So I think you’ll be fine with just using the undercoat after a light sand but do use the primer on the knots because a resin bleed may not be immediately obvious but over time they can appear (like little orange circles), more so if exposed to sunlight or humidity. Can’t remember how you test for wax but I think if you flick some water at it and it beads then you’ll know if they’ve been waxed or not. Hope this helps a little.
...See More
Louise Carter
Original Author
3 years ago
This still looks great thanks for sharing! We’ve decided to get one waxed and one oiled and decide which we prefer for the rest!
Wumi
3 years ago
Bear in mind wax and oil finishes will need to be more frequently reapplied than say a varnish finish. The advantage being you can retouch areas or the whole door without having to strip back.
Sonia
3 years ago
Oil or wax just aren’t tough enough I feel.
Sarah U-S
3 years ago
There’s a fab brand of products for wood called Osmo. They do an oil called “Door-Oil”, for internal doors! I’ve not used it myself - however I have used other items from their range, and all have been absolutely brilliant.
Louise Carter
Original Author
3 years ago
Thank you!

door stripping - patches. to wax or oil?!

Comments (7)

Sonia

Sonia

Related Discussions

Louise Carter
Original Author

Wumi

Sonia

Sarah U-S

Louise Carter
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

door stripping - patches. to wax or oil?!

Comments (7)

Sonia

Sonia

Related Discussions

Louise CarterOriginal Author

Wumi

Sonia

Sarah U-S

Louise CarterOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Louise Carter
Original Author

Louise Carter
Original Author