Advise on roof repairs

2 years ago

Hi Everyone,

This is possibly my last post, in regards to specific areas of the house. This time it's the roof

As mentioned, it's a 1970s built house, which the last owners don't think have modified much. So a bit apprehensive, that there might be a lot of work lurking in there. I have read somewhere that the roof repairs can be the most expensive.

Please do see excerpts from the building survey, cut and pasted below. I have also uploaded some pics, as in the building survey.

YBS did their own bank evaluation, pricey but didn't add much. It did mention, that given the age of the house, one might consider a new roof!!

Any ideas, after looking at these pics? The inside of the roof looks pretty untidy, but it's my first roof, so apologies, if I come across as a newbie

Kind Regards

Mel

===

Roof recommendations from the building survey

The roof void is accessed via a hatch on the landing ceiling, however, there is no option to install a pull-down ladder in this area as it is very close to the pitch of the roof. You may wish to install a further loft hatch in the front right-hand bedroom which would provide easier access and the ability to fit a pull-down ladder in this area. – Estimated £600.00

The roof to the main building is a timber-framed, pitched roof finished in flat concrete tiles with a bedded ridge to the top. Both left and right slopes appear to be relatively true with no signs of deflection however, the roof is suffering from biological moss growth and we recommend this is carefully cleaned to prevent the guttering system from becoming blocked and also the degradation of the tile faces

The main roof to the building has a capped verge detail to both front and rear and this is currently finished with plastic caps and all appear to be in place with no major defects noted. There is also a timber-framed, subsidiary flat roof serving the garage. This also appears to be keeping the underside however, mineral felt will have a limited life, and upgrading this covering should be expected over the coming years. The roof also has a skylight formed in timber with a Georgian wired glass section, this type of skylight can be prone to leaking and repairs to this detail will be likely.

The garage roof does however have some pooling water present, we recommend you have these areas self-levelled to prevent this kind of settling water.

There is also a subsidiary roof serving the conservatory to the rear and this is finished in Georgian wired glass panels however, at least three of the panels are damaged and we recommend these are renewed. Upgrading the roof completely should be a consideration.

There is one chimney serving the property located central and is relatively true in alignment, however, is suffering from some mortar displacement and we recommend the chimney is accessed and re-pointed and this should include repointing the flashing detail

3.01 ROOF VOID The roof void is accessed via a hatch on the landing ceiling, there is no pull-down ladder installed however, there is no option to install a pull-down ladder in this area as it is very close to the pitch of the roof. You may wish to install a further loft hatch in the front right-hand bedroom which would provide easier access and the ability to fit a pull-down ladder in this area. The construction of the roof frame is a traditional cut and pitched method which is timber members supported by timber purlins and generally, the roof frame appears to be free from major deflection and does have extra timber supports provided in the form of cross braces. The roof void is insulated with approximately 300mm depth insulation in most areas. The chimney is travelling up through the roof void. There are existing water storage tanks in the roof void and you may wish to have these removed however, they may need to be cut up to be removed. The underside of the roof coverings are lined with an underfelt and this appears generally free of major defects where visible.

Comments (5)

HU-768402840
Original Author
2 years ago
This was the report from the bank’s surveyor

He states that a flat roof

covering is provided to the propery and such roof coverings have a limited life and are prone to sudden failure

—Any ideas?

Do you think I should go in for a roof survey?
Becci C
2 years ago
If I’m reading it right it sounds like the main roof to the house is fine. It’s the flat roof to the garage that they’re saying may need replacing. felt flat roofs as I understand often only last 10-15years. We have the same on our garage. we’ve been quoted £1000 to replace it with fibreglass roof which we’re going to do because it’s leaking. If yours isn’t leaking, or if you’re not really using the garage you could leave this job for later.

regarding the loft, you could have this boarded out if you need to use it for storage. but if you don’t need to use it it’s fine left as is with just the insulation. we’ve just reinsulated ours and boarded a little section of it to use for now.

hope that helps!
HU-768402840 thanked Becci C
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HU-768402840
Original Author
2 years ago
Hi Becci

regarding the loft, you could have this boarded out if you need to use it for storage

- How much would it cost to board it out? Using it as storage may be a good idea
Angie
2 years ago
If you board out the loft you’ll need to use special legs to hold the boards above the insulation so it’s not crushed. DIY stores like Wickes sell them. Loft legs could be what they’re called. We did ours with them a few years back. Angie
HU-768402840 thanked Angie
Becci C
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
I’m not sure on total cost as my husband did the work himself. It was around £25 per board (2ftx8ft). we only laid 6 boards down for now for a storage area, will do the rest in a couple of years when other important stuff is done. We also didn’t bother fixing these in properly, just laid them on the joists for now!

Before doing that we ripped out all the existing insulation and replaced it with new. (if you’re going to do this yourself wear overalls, gloves, mask & goggles! insulation is nasty stuff!) This was £35 a roll and we used 6 rolls i think for a 6.5Mx6.5M space.

Angie may be right about needing the legs. have a google of those, theyre not expensive. but if you are going to replace the insulation you might not need them. you won’t know until you take some up and can see the depth of your joists. Our new insulation fits comfortably between our joists now so the boards lay on those and don’t crush the insulation.

cheapest option is leave the insulation alone and just buy legs & boards.
HU-768402840 thanked Becci C

Advise on roof repairs

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Advise on roof repairs

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