Considering Engineered wood for kitchen - am I mad!
pawson21
2 years ago
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PROOphelia Interiors (Trading as Ophelia Homes Ltd)
2 years agoHi Pawson21, engineered wood flooring is a really good material to be used within the kitchen. It does have water resistant features against spillages but this must be cleared up quite quickly before any water starts to penetrate the underside. If you are to buy a good quality engineered floor, I don’t believe you’ll have an issue and it will look stunning. I have attached some photos of an engineered wood floor we installed in a project and it looked so beautiful!
pawson21 thanked Ophelia Interiors (Trading as Ophelia Homes Ltd)Related Discussions
Another hardwood vs engineered wood flooring question!
Comments (17)I'll agree with ProSource Memphis, you need to install an engineered wood floor because of the concrete. For our customers that are in your exact situation we offer engineered products, prefinished and unfinished (site sanded/finished), that have 3-5 mm wear layers. Some of these products can withstand 2-4 sandings, which equals way more lifespan than a cheap engineered floor. This equals less cost in the long run, but higher cost up front. Basically the thicker the wear layer, the better chance your engineered floor will last longer (80 years + estimated for 4-5mm), and the more expensive it will be. ProSource is correct, gluing a 3/4" solid floor down can be problematic and not worth the risk. Especially when there are high quality engineered floors that offer essentially the same thing. Engineered is going to be more stable with your fluctuating climate as well. You'll want a hygrometer in the home to monitor relative humidity. It should be somewhere around 30-60% RH for the floor to play nice. There are so many more variables involved in this discussion that entire books can probably be written. But that's my $.02...See MoreLVP vs Engineered vs Real Wood in a kitchen dining living space
Comments (8)Solid wood floor typically isn't recommended in a kitchen, the changes in temperature and humidity can cause the floor to expand and contract. Having said that my brother had parquet fitted 3 years ago in the whole of downstairs and it hasn't been an issue at all (so far!) . It is a large room though with lots of ventilation, extraction, door openings etc. Engineered wood is recommended however, it may still contract etc but only by a minimal amount and the small expansion gap left around the perimeter is sufficient. You would still need to mop up any spills straightaway and I would recommend ordering slightly over the recommended surplus amount. I'm not sure if this affects all engineered floors (or whether I chose badly so may be worth asking!) but I had a few knots in some of the planks which were "filled" by the manufacturer and over time the Hoover etc knocks out the "filler" which doesn't look great so basically if I was doing it again I would just discard any planks with knots in if you want the floor to remain looking good. i really like some of the LVT's but they do differ enormously even within the same brand as to what looks realistic. I might consider the architecture of the building with LVT, what period is it?, personally I would use the "design strips" between the planks to make it look more realistic. Is the kitchen already fitted? I ask as my mum had LVT fitted when she had her kitchen done and the planks just run up to the plinths on the units finished with a line of mastic which personally I'm not keen on. i don't think you can go wrong with a herringbone or chevron (which I slightly prefer) floor though. They're a classic and tend to make a space feel larger (your eyes aren't drawn to the straight lines of planks). I don't know the layout of the kitchen and whether you have an island but the pattern can tend to work in either direction whereas planks sometimes won't. I'm also not keen on "washing" wood floors too frequently but given there aren't pets that shouldn't be a concern. good luck!...See MoreHELP!! How to lay out our new kitchen. I am going mad!
Comments (15)Hi Ben, As we get into the nitty gritty details with measurements and everything, then that starts to really get into a checking everything, very time-consuming situation to make sure all the elements of your project will fit and work out. I am retired now, but may I suggest once we get the big stuff laid out, then you (if you feel confident) or get a professional to check over the entire plan to make sure everything works for the measurements, spaces, appliances you are looking at, etc. A kitchen designer may help, but would really try to find someone who can 'consult' on the whole plan. That way you know everything checks out when it comes time to do the buiding works & installation. If you have a kitchen designer as well, usually part of the kitchen sales package, they can then double check all of the kitchen & utility stuff. What I can do is tell you in functional terms what I know will work better for layout given your building constraints, day-to-day living, etc. First, I like the row of tall cabinets along the left side - this will allow for optimum storage - even a coat closet in the first cabinet if there isn't enough space in the entry. Plus for all the dishwear you may not use everyday but are helpful for extra guests, and for the option of sticking in a built-in microwave & coffee maker, if not another better place. So if you can keep this, then great. If not, then it can be configured partially or wholly like your standard kitchen units. Plan 1 - this plan depends on how you want to use the island and the dimensions of it (if it is big enough). Sink ideal in island really. The sink doesn't have to be centered, but there needs to be at least 30cm on the smaller side of it min as you don't want dishes falling off - 50-60cm is ideal of course. Dishwasher - If you are left handed, put your dishwasher just right of the sink and if you are right handed, put it just left of the sink. Range on other side of utility door Fridge as is Plan 2 - Island clear Sink other side of utility door Sink placement makes dishwasher placement tricky - if enough space then to right of sink Range on right side wall Fridge as is Plan 3 - Island clear Sink on right side wall (if plumbing is doable) Dishwasher - If you are left handed, put your dishwasher just right of the sink and if you are right handed, put it just left of the sink. Range on other side of utility door Fridge as is Plan 4 - Built-in coffee / microwave station in tall cabinet where Rridge is shown now Sink ideal in island really. The sink doesn't have to be centered, but there needs to be at least 30cm on the smaller side of it min as you don't want dishes falling off - 50-60cm is ideal of course. Dishwasher - If you are left handed, put your dishwasher just right of the sink and if you are right handed, put it just left of the sink. Range on other side of utility door Fridge at the end of the cabinetry on the right wall All of these layout plans give you a useable and functional working zone (usually triangle shaped for sink - range - fridge) that isn't too spread out to become a neusance. Also, they each aford you a viable counter prep space or two for chopping and preparing your meals. Your partner may think you are mad, but that is why people hire designers - because most plans need to be worked and reworked, taking in to account loads of factors, preferences, and incorporating great design as well as dealing with copius measurements. This is why hours and hours can and often should be spent on getting things right in the planning. I can't tell you the number of houses I've visited where people have had work done that just didn't function well for them in the end. It is worth it to spend the time over it now and if you need to - hire help or get a professional to double-check you work. It usually saves money and hopefully loads of frustration down the road. Best wishes and Good Luck!...See Moreengineered wood flooring
Comments (1)Hi Lucy, An engineered wood flooring can be fitted before or after the kitchen is installed. The best thing to be fitted after the flooring has been put down is the skirting, this is because you need an expansion gap to your walls and the skirting will then cover this, so you don't end up with added beading. If the flooring is put down the kitchen can be fitted easily, though will need to be careful to put protection on the floor whilst moving the cabinets around. If the flooring is fitted after the kitchen then the flooring will need to be cut around some elements though mainly can be cut up to the adjustable legs and the plinths then fitted afterwards. Also the kitchen fitter will need to allow for the thickness of the floor to finish at the correct height. Hope that all helps Mark:))...See More
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