Induction hob in kitchen possible with the electrics I have in there?

4 months ago

I know, for anyone who’s seen any of my previous posts will know I can’t leave remodelling my kitchen despite it only being 2-3 years old but feel I got the design wrong.

Thinking of taking out the range (gas hob, oven and extractor), and moving it to the island (would need to be an induction in the island as gas pipes won’t be possible. I have 2 x standard plug sockets in the island - will they be enough to handle the power for the induction hob?). The idea would be to then put the tall fridge freezer where the current range is, so it’s not in the dining room.

Thoughts?

Featured Answer

Owen Train
Original Author

4 months ago

So I just decided to stick the fridge in the alcove, I’ll shift those units forward 10cm and box it off to make it nice and neat. Zero money spent. I will look at a remodel as and when the budget allows.

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Comments (23)

Daisy England
4 months ago
last modified: 4 months ago
Your idea will position the appliances better than where they are currently are. You can buy what they call plug and play induction hobs. Others need hard wiring in. What will you do though with the chimney?
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
Thanks Daisy England. I heard plug and play induction hobs aren’t as good? The chimney would need to be removed and potentially a ceiling extractor above the island (though not sure how important an extractor really is?). Also, not sure how best to cut that end of the worktop off, I don’t want to have to remove it if poss.
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Lucy it's a Neff I89EH52NOB island hood. I think if I bought another I would go for the one without glass the I79MT64N1B which covers the whole hob area. I find I have to have mine on high power so that it pulls the steam from the pans on the flexi zone areas of the hob. I like the ceiling extractors but I wasn't sure how efficient and noisy they would be as they have to pull the steam from quite a distance. The flexi hob is amazing and I love having it on the island. Good luck with your renovation.
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Ah Carolina that's the first time I've read someone saying they miss gas! High pitched noise would annoy the hell out of me. And we will have a flush ceiling extractor (Westin stratus) which apparently works slightly better with gas. Hmmm. What make is yours? OnePlan, I know my flaws, I am lazy so would either skip the j cloth (risky) or leave it on the hob all the time to avoid getting it in and out of a drawer each time (not pretty). I was expecting replies saying it's not a problem! Maybe gas is best for us after all. Just feels a bit... unmodern??
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Depends on how picky you are with cooking. Induction hobs are great for cleaning. You do need to note that the pan becomes your heating element. If you want the maximum performance from your induction hob, you need to match with high quality induction pans. I've personally used cheap supermarket induction pans vs £150 German pan, both the same shape and weight. The former takes 5 times longer to heat up than the latter. Please select a high quality German made induction hob.
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You have a few ways to get round this, I doubt diy kitchens would be able to do this for you but your fitter should be able to, but bearing in mind a lot of hobs now also specify the fitting of a heat resistant board and an air gap even 60mm might not be enough. the top cutlery drawer can be lowered by about 12-15mm and the drawer front repositioned is easy to do change the pan drawer to a 2 drawer with internal drawer, if diy kitchens use blum tandembox drawers, these pan drawers come in 2 heights and change the top pan drawer (type D 224mm) for the type C which has a lower back and gallery rail at 162mm, the internal drawer can then be lowered, you might have to source your own drawer boxes. change the drawer unit to a 1 pan and 3 cutlery drawer and dummy the top drawer if diy kitchens have 175 tall drawer fronts at 800 wide (doubt it) then have a 1 pan drawer at 355 tall and 2 cutlery drawers at 175 consider a 'true handleless' design which has a handle rail machined into the carcase of about 60mm so the drawers are well clear of the hob, don't believe diy kitchens offer 'true handleless' though. looking at your picture i'd also check that the extractor is going to fit in the gap between the wall units.
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Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
Also, if I cut that section of worktop, it will reveal the chipboard inner (it’s just a couple of mm of engineered wood with chipboard in the centre. Maybe just a brown plastic ending to make it tidy?
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
Also, will the fridge there look aesthetically pleasing? It’s literally the only place it can go
Daisy England
4 months ago
Putting the fridge there will block your view when you enter through the door, but it’s not ideally placed currently.

It’s a pity your worktop joint wasn’t in a different place. Had it been cut in the opposite direction you would not have had the problem you now have. You will need some worktop in the corner area if you remove the piece the hob is in, or do you mean you are just going to cut it off?

It’s difficult to tell from the photo, is it laminate? If so they are supplied with edging strips and you can buy them separately. Personally I think half the extractors are not up to scratch and wouldn’t bother with one
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
The other option I have is stick it in the alcove in the dining room. I’ll add a few more photos so you can see the whole layout..
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
It’s engineered wood - I was thinking of just chopping it off. The fridge would cover the cut anyway
Daisy England
4 months ago
You need the fridge easily accessible so put it where you have planned.

I would put something over the edge if it has a chipboard core to prevent any moisture that’s prevalent in the kitchen from getting into it otherwise it might swell. Even a coating of varnish/lacquer just so it’s sealed.
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
I’m not convinced by extractors either unless you’re cooking on an industrial scale
Susy Q
4 months ago
Do you need two doors to the garden? Could you swap the single door for a window, put more worktop and cupboards along there, take out the island and then put the fridge on the wall facing into where the island currently is? Basically change it to a u shaped kitchen? Have you got a floor plan of the downstairs you could post?
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
Suzy Q - the options are limitless! But I’m looking to do this on a small a budget as possible, so not really looking to completely remodel, thanks
kazzh
4 months ago
You could trial removal of the second door by simply locking it, placing the fridge in the location and see how it works. My concern would be the space needed to allow for the swing of the door, both in the door location and in the range location. There is nothing worse than a ding in the door which mars the whole finish.
PRO
Lifestyle Kitchens
4 months ago
Some induction hobs work using a 13 amp plug, they're fine if using just 2 rings, but get slow when more rings are on as they're switching the current round from ring to ring, you also need to check your single oven is 3kw or less so that too can be just plugged in. Where your extractor was, i would assume that is ducted out being on an outside wall you can/should fit a 'vent axia' style wall fan. For the worktop, you can get metal and plastic end caps in silver, bronze, black which you can cover the cut with if its straight enough. But looking at the thickness of the decor panel you have next to the oven base, it might be to thick to re use as the cut out of the hob may not line up with the panel.
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
I tend to only use about 2 rings anyway so I’m alright with that, but would obviously prefer hard wired if poss. Does that literally mean a wire needs to be run from the island direct to the fuse box? Is there a way of hacking the existing connections? (Both connect to 13amp junction boxes under the sink, and (forgive my ignorance when it comes to electrics) I think are then just part of the “kitchen ring”. By “vent-axia”, are you suggesting a basic wall vent like you’d put in a bathroom? Thanks
Susy Q
4 months ago
I was thinking you could reuse the island cabinets and worktop under the new window- it’d be the difference in cost changing the door to a window versus moving the electrics and oven?
PRO
Lifestyle Kitchens
4 months ago
@Owen Train

You said in your original post that you have 2x standard plug sockets in the island so i assumed you want to use those, without looking at your electrics i 'assume' that these are on a ring already from the fuseboard and has 2.5mm cable, so you could use these with the appliances that i'd stated. For a 'hard wired' induction hob these are more powerful and needs a minimum of 6mm cable coming from its own dedicated 32amp breaker/fuse in the fuseboard and this would suit a 7.5kwatt hob.

Most single ovens run at about 3kwatts so these can be plugged (there is a rating plate in the oven somewhere), the induction hobs that come with plugs fitted also run at about 3kwatts and so can be plugged.

Now if your existing sockets on the island will need to be moved/broken into altered in any way (you can change face plates but thats about all) this then comes under Part P of building regs as kitchens are considered high risk areas (and i've seen plenty of dodgy wiring in them to agree) and the work needs to be carried out by a 'competant' person (certified part p electrician) who can then test and inspect the work done as a minor works and notify building control so the work is recorded.

If you want to run a new supply from your fuseboard that also comes under Part P but is considered major works which may mean a lot more testing of all your house electrics.

The electrician is also responsible for Part F compliance which covers extraction and ventilation and by removing a ducted extractor in an existing kitchen you are making the ventilation worse, so thats why you need something like a bathroom fan but it should be at least 60 litres/sec as its not over the hob.

Your existing appliances you say are connected to junction boxes under the sink (I assume you mean just a junction box and not a switch spur or anything) and are on the 'kitchen ring' now these should have a means of isolation (ie a switch or just a fuse) looking at your photo you have a couple of switches to the right of your hob, these look like switch fuse spurs and i imagine either one controls the oven and the other controls the ignitor for the hob, or one does the oven and hob and the other is the extractor, both are fine, so the junction boxes are fused down and fed from the switch fused spurs.

As your kitchen is only a few years old, part P has been about for a long time now so you should have an electrical report for the previous work, dig that out, have look on line at various hobs you like and get the details (ie how many watts or kilowatts required) and get 3 electricians to quote you for the works that you want doing, and then decide if its worth doing, also don't forget you'll also get another bill from your gas man for disconnecting and capping off you gas hob to factor in.
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
Thanks lifestyle kitchens, so basically I can’t just add a 32A connection in to the existing ring, and it will need to be chased direct to the fuse box (in the entrance hall)?
PRO
Lifestyle Kitchens
4 months ago
last modified: 4 months ago
Thats about right, obviously an electrician would look at the existing wiring and check suitability but going by what you're saying and how 95% of house wiring, your kitchen sockets are on either its own, downstairs, or house ring and run in 2.5mm cable, fused at the board with a 32amp breaker. Now it could be that at some stage in the history of your house things have moved and changed and there was an old cooker cable in 6mm which is run directly from the fuse board and this has been used as the feed to the sockets in the island.

Again I must emphasize that any electrical work in a kitchen is governed by building regs and needs to be notified and I appreciate its your own house etc, but should be carried out by a Part P certified electrician
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
The electrics in the kitchen were all stripped out and redone 3 years ago. You’re right, I’ll get a sparky to advise. If the simplest and cheapest option is a 13A induction hob then so be it. Looks like there’s some acceptable ones out there eg: https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/pue611bf1b/bosch-pue611bf1b-4-induction-hob-hob
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
This is not something I’m planning on doing immediately. Just looking at options. Currently remodelling very basically and sticking the fridge in the dining area alcove (hutch) and see it that’s acceptable in terms of not too much hassle walking about when cooking
88wj88
4 months ago
I would suggest blocking up the door with the cat flap and move island so it is next to the cooker. At the moment you are cooking in a corridor. Put the fridge just inside the kitchen door to the left. You already have a dining table so you can live without the island. Also you already have doors for outside access.
Owen Train
Original Author
4 months ago
I quite like the island. Also, filling in the door way and installing a window is surely gonna cost a fortune? I’m going to start by moving the fridge in to the alcove, and move the (non glass) pantry back where the fridge is now (where it was in the original design. If I’m not happy with having the fridge 2m walk away, I’ll consider the other options. Lesson learned (this is my first house) - consult lots of people including your lovely selves before stampeding away with a kitchen design that “looks good, just do it!” 😂

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Induction hob in kitchen possible with the electrics I have in there?

Owen Train
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