which direction for coving?
Abbie
last year
Sorry for the awful diagram!
We are renovating our house and we have just finished plastering the main bedroom and we need to think about adding coving.
Previously, the coving went down rather than across (where the green line is) however I’m thinking it’ll probably look better if we follow it across the whole wall (yellow line)
Could I have people opinions please on what you feel is best? Thank you!
yellow line
green line
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Ruth House
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To cove or not to cove
Comments (3)It really is for aesthetic purposes. I think traditonally cornicing and skirts were used to cover any flaws in the plaster where the walls met the ceiling/floors. It can also give a roundness to the room and avoid shadows where the wall and ceiling meet. On the flip side, if painted white it can give the appearance of a bigger ceiling ceiling and therefore shorter walls. Nowadays a lot of contemporary homes do not have coving. I think it depends on what you like, personally I love it in the right space. What do you mean by low beams btw?...See MoreWhich direction should I lay parquet floor
Comments (34)Taken me sometime as just wanted to exhale and enjoy the moment. Very long post sorry. Preparation Research the job - there are loads of videos on You Tube of what to do and how best to do it; I somewhat took the best from all. Buy more than needed as it's easier to take excess back rather than fall short. Blocks 1. Blocks no longer need to have all the bitumen taken off. There are now adhesives that can do the job without all the scraping. I found companies that could take all the bitumen off but it would have cost a tidy sum. I used Lecol 5500. But the sides and tongues still needed to be cleaned in order to get a good fit. 2. If the tongues are damaged the blocks can still be used. You could actually take them all off and still have a good finish. I wasn't going to do that to close to 3000 blocks. Again, I found companies that would do this. 3. Spend some time grading the blocks - size, height, wear, complete (tongue). It really does help when laying, and therefore sanding and the finish, as you then don't have huge amounts to level out. Surface 1. Ensure you have a sound subfloor. Luckily I already had one but had to still take it up as I put some sound proofing down under. 2. Make sure level with no screw heads locking out and no squeaks as the last thing you want is to lay it and the floor squeaks all about. Laying 1. Measure, check and double check. Including borders and expansion gap. 2. As shown in the videos lay a crown line: The centre of the room is the backbone of the whole floor, it ensure rows are straight going forward. 3. Start early, especially if you think you can do it in one day. I took a week, doing some everyday after work. But this helped as the previous rows were then hard and didn't move. The adhesive will be a bit slippy and moveable until it's dry so don't walk on it. 4. Lay each row 'dry' to ensure that they will sit together before applying the adhesive. It takes longer and maybe a little messy ( adhesive overlay ) but worth it. 5. For the border, overlay where you've measured where the border should be (making sure not to add adhesive over your marking ) and then use the saw to take off the excess. As it wouldn't have had the adhesive on it'll come up super easy and leave with a clean finish. Sanding, Filling and finishing. 1. If sanding yourself find a firm that has a Trio and belt sander. Absolutely brilliant machines. As they have three rotational disks perfect for parquet as difficult to sand along the grain with belt sander. I used the belt first until the 60 paper grade and then switched to the Trio. 2. Use 60 or 80 dust mixed with resin for filling. Again loads of videos on the Tube. I used Lecol 7500 resin. I filled it twice sanding in between. 3. Research the finish you want and if not sure take an example to a wood flooring specialist to get their advice....See MoreDark open plan/coving
Comments (3)The pictures haven't come out, but I see where you're going with the description. Paint A4 sheets of paper and put them on the wall, leave in place and see how the light affects it at different times of day. Using the paper means that you don't have a myriad of tester patches on the wall, plus you can move the paper about to different areas to gauge what you think. Often people paint doors and coving the same colour as the walls to get uniformity and add height. I wouldn't paint them a different colour entirely. Either go for white on the coving or the same colour as your walls. The dark wood will not minimise the dark colour on the wall, quite the opposite. Dark furniture sucks the light, so I disagree with that opinion. You could of course go for one particularly dark wall as a feature and have the rest of the room a few shades lighter. A dining table next to a dark wall looks lovely! Good luck!...See MoreHow do I fix hairline cracks on old covings?
Comments (2)try toupret fine surface filler as this is a better solution to paint, especially as you seem to have already spent time filling, it is a shame to put loads of thick paint over the cornice. you could use a water based wood primer which has more body to it than an emulsion and then paint with an emulsion, if you really d9nt want to use a filler. good luck!...See MoreAbbie
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