Is this joist safe?
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HU-768402840
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Hallway - Working with Victorian Tile
Comments (47)This looks really great, and I'm particularly interested as we have a similar hall with an artificially narrow entrance (1950s conversion of an 1880s house!) which carries round in an L shape all the way to the back of the flat. We also have the sloping understairs ceiling and the height makes it dark and cold. We've thought of dropping the ceiling and having spotlights as you've done, but it's the floor we're most uncertain about. Our tiles are older than yours and in very poor condition, plus very cold underfoot, so we're still undecided whether to cover up entirely (carpet? engineered wood?), saving the floor for future inhabitants, or actually (eek) taking it up. The majority of the tiled floor is in the communal hallway, so it's still there for people to enjoy. Anyway, sorry - just wanted to say also I love your colour scheme and the panelling isn't something I would have considered but it looks fantastic and we have very similar panelled doors, so I think we should consider it....See MoreInternal wall removal HEADACHE!!!
Comments (11)Hi, I agree with Carolina’s design, but you must be careful as those stud walls might be structural. It might affect the joists, which could cause extra costs for steel and re-adjusting the joists. Have you tried looking into a fire escape window on the 1st floor? It will be a lot of money and work for the extra space, it looks like a good size sitting room. I would recommend saving and expanding the back kitchen etc....See MoreOak Flooring Disaster - What Now?
Comments (12)Hello, sorry to hear about your experience. I'm not a floor expert but wanted to share my experience and thoughts. If you plan to screed the floor again, it might be wise to research how long the screed really takes to dry before laying a wooden floor because even though it is dry to walk on, there may still be moisture in the screed. If you lay the DPM, then add screed on top, the moisture only has one way to go which is upwards into the wood floor again. Why do you need the self levelling screed? Is it because the floor is completely unlevel in one part of the room compared to another? Just from my own experience, I've just had my kitchen, hallway and extension installed with engineered floors back in October. We had a chimney breast removed and this chimney sat on a concrete floor, the rest of the floor had wood floor joists. As some of the concrete floor was disturbed during the building work, the builder said he was going to fix it by filling the gap with concrete but lay DPM in the between the joists so the damp would not go through to the joists. When the floor fitter came to check the site, I told him this was the plan for the area, he immediately said the floor would not be dry in time ( floor to be installed a week after the concrete ) and said he would not install the wood floor in that area as it would take months to dry and the moisture would go into the wood. The existing concrete also had some damp ( not sure if this is normal ), he used a damp meter. The builder was obviously not happy with this as he said it takes 2 days to dry and there was a bit of standoff off between the fitter and the builder. The floor fitter said yes it might take 2 days to dry to walk on but moisture is still in the concrete. Eventually I had to get the builder to remove the concrete floor section and replace it with joist. In this situation I decided to trust the floor fitter as this was his field of expertise. My point is, even if you have a screed, I think you also need some DPM or something in between the screed and the wood that stops the moisture from rising into the wood. You could also go to some independent flooring shops if you still need to look for new flooring as they are usually very knowledgable, explain your situation with the screed, tiles etc and they would should be able to advise you what to do to avoid the same thing happening again. Did you have the floorboards floating or glued?...See MoreCant use LVT!? Need "breathable" floors.
Comments (17)Yes minipie, that's precisely the concern, the walls are still drying out to this date in some areas. It is the intention to tank the bathroom, but this is a small area in a not so risky spot having only one short exterior wall. It will have both a radiator and towel radiator and extra vents whether it gets a warm floor to boot or not .... but this isnt my concern, the other nearly 65 square meters of matching floor covering, and the sheer cost of it is! I dont mind rustic, but the use of cork or lino concerns me in terms of being hard wearing enough, and clay tile sounds pricey but I shall have a look at that. I looked at Hessian, sisal... but Ive never lived with those types of floor. I've seen some say theyre hard to get stains out and I'm concerned that it would latch onto husky hair. This looks alright: http://www.corkfloor.co.uk/floor/GNVICELAND.aspx , nearly £4k (+++) without fitting or the accessories though. But it's "VinylCork" ... that's still coated and looks the same problem as LVT?! http://www.corkfloor.co.uk/floor/GNCCLSWHITE.aspx at a start of just under 2.5K (+++), which would do the job. ... but this also poses the question regarding it's "weartop" coating which is the thing that makes it any use at all for the durability I am looking for... I'm lost... I honestly cant live another 3 years with bare cold floors that look an absolute mess :( At this point, I'll whack £2.99 carpet in and sell the place...See MoreHU-768402840
last yearlast modified: last yearHU-768402840
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last yearlast modified: last year
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