skip to main content

Help with 1930's Semi-Detached Hall Adjoining Loft Extension Ideas

last year

I need help pls! I am really struggling with the design and maximising spce in our loft extension. We have the following plan drawn up but they are dreadful as leave no room for bed. I ideally want wardrobe and good en-suite as well as decent bedroom. What are your thoughts has anyone got any fab ideas, im useless at this type of thing :(

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (3)

User
last year
No measurements, so hard to advise
0
User
last year
Just noticed the scale along the bottom. Need a ruler 📏
0
Related Discussions
Semi-detached rear extension, how to get drawings/design done?
Q
Comments (8)
I like your plan, I would put an external door on the utility instead. and ideally get the boiler in there if you can. (boiler there more important than door- if its a choice) block up external door to office (not needed) put a cloak room under stairs and use the doorway space - access cloak room from under stairs. Just need to know where your external soil pipe is to confirm. i can recommend an architectural technician. (although you could probably sketch it yourself) he also does B.regs / project management as well, if required re the construction, over hand block build the party wall side. brick and block the rest, you will need a steel over the bifold if wider than 3.6m. cheaper option is to have larger french doors with fixed glazing either side, (then you may not need the steel.) you will need one for the internal partition. so delivering two easy as one i may be able to supply the easi joists and 18mm osb for the roof (bit of a small job) get your services (lights) up in there easily . 5m easy to span try and get a warm roof if poss. (insulation on top and then ur choice of roof covering) check heights when designing and submitting plans) cold roofs are a pain. good luck , happy to help Chris
...See More
1930’s semi - best open plan layout for kitchen/diner or all open?
Q
Comments (24)
I’m struggling to find a way to have a kitchen/island (really would like an island to have useable counterspace), generous dining table (seating for at least 6 people) and a sitting area in the same room if we don’t open up the wall between the current front and back living rooms. Would it make more sense to have part of the garage incorporated into the kitchen? There is a slight difference in floor level though between the garage and kitchen (Step down into the garage). Or block up the current kitchen door and have the access to a dining/kitchen through the current back living room space and then somehow fit in a dining table and seating area?
...See More
Ideas for Elevation of a Semi Detached 1960s house
Q
Comments (30)
Only my personal opinion...I would remove external shutters, look at the brickwork after this, clean if necessary. (Ideally not render due to costs to maintain). Dont worry about roof it will tone down. Personally I like a uniform look so would have internal shutters on all front facing windows (love these great summer or winter). Plant something beautiful to soften the lines....climbing wisteria always looks good properly supported. Re do driveway, invest in some substantial planters. Climbing plant needed to the right if the door as it's off centre. IF you had the money perhaps consider replacing the fencing both sides of your doorway with uniform fencing/walls (yes I know you are only responsible for one side) depending on your relationship with the neighbours. If not painting fencing facing the drive same colour. I like urban grey or tudor black to provide a dramatic backdrop to planting. (Think about co ordinating colour used on driveway). I would also put in an external light by the front door and think about what if any low level lighting you want at the front or either side of entrance depending on night time lights on the street.
...See More
1930s semi-detached single storey extension layout advice please
Q
Comments (14)
Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew
...See More
siobhanmcgee90
last year
The shower room is in a very awkward place. Can some of the storage area be used? The wardrobes will need slider doors. What are the measurements of the space
0

Sponsored

More Discussions

Ideas for side extension layout

2

what wall color goes with polished concrete floor

3

Suggestions on floor plan improvements

8

help!! ugly house needs ideas

3

Ideas for bedroom refurbishment.

0

United Kingdom

Tailor my experience with cookies

Houzz uses cookies and similar technologies to personalise my experience, serve me relevant content, and improve Houzz products and services. By clicking ‘Accept’ I agree to this, as further described in the Houzz Cookie Policy. I can reject non-essential cookies by clicking ‘Manage Preferences’.