I'll agree with ProSource Memphis, you need to install an engineered wood floor because of the concrete. For our customers that are in your exact situation we offer engineered products, prefinished and unfinished (site sanded/finished), that have 3-5 mm wear layers. Some of these products can withstand 2-4 sandings, which equals way more lifespan than a cheap engineered floor. This equals less cost in the long run, but higher cost up front. Basically the thicker the wear layer, the better chance your engineered floor will last longer (80 years + estimated for 4-5mm), and the more expensive it will be. ProSource is correct, gluing a 3/4" solid floor down can be problematic and not worth the risk. Especially when there are high quality engineered floors that offer essentially the same thing. Engineered is going to be more stable with your fluctuating climate as well. You'll want a hygrometer in the home to monitor relative humidity. It should be somewhere around 30-60% RH for the floor to play nice. There are so many more variables involved in this discussion that entire books can probably be written. But that's my $.02

I assume it is wet UFH you are having. Make sure you have enough separately controllable zones. The gradual turning up is of the temp of the water that flows thru the pipes. There will be a water temp thermostat among the control paraphernalia. You must make sure that your sub floor is completely dry before laying your floor covering or it will be ruined by water coming out of the substrate underneath as it dries. We waited 12 weeks. Our joiner counselled against wood in any form, even engineered, over UFH. I think also that carpet is not recommended over UFH. We chose porcelain tiles. We have radiators in the downstairs rooms with carpets on their own control circuit.

Generalisation now… 100% wool Tends to be used most with structured loops, sometimes referred to as "naturals". It's very rare you will find 100% wool used when making twist pile carpets. Example of a typical 100% wool loop - click here. 80/20 (80% wool; 20% a.n. other) This blend tends to be most common in the functional twist carpet. One thing to consider is what is the 20%? To keep the price down, manufacturers will use polypropylene which we explained about the pros and cons of polypropylene in our previous comments. If you can afford it, we would recommend looking for either 20% polyamide (aka nylon), 20% polyester or a mix of polyamide and polyester to go with the 80% wool… you dig? These blends, with 80% wool, will out perform an 80% wool, 20% polypropylene -> FACT. Here's an example of an 80% wool, 20% polypropylene twist pile carpet - click here. Here's an example of an 80% wool, 10% polyamide, 10% polyester twist pile carpet - click here. You'll note a difference in their prices for comparable products. We'll get on to clarifying another reason for this price difference in a minute. 50% wool, 50% a.n. other This blend is all about making wool more affordable. Very rarely used in twist pile carpet these days, so it's more likely you will find this blend of mix in the structured wool loop market. Examples of a typical 50% wool loop carpet - click here, and click here. It's not really about what's the best wool blend, it's more about the look you most prefer as this dictates the wool blend in the carpet. Most important, actually, is the quality of the yarn used. New Zealand is recognised as the best. Wears incredibly well and allows strikingly clean colours eliminating berber (flecky) hues. New Zealand wool is the most expensive of wool yarns for these reasons. Here's an example of an 80% New Zealand wool twist carpet - click here and here's an example of a 100% New Zealand wool loop pile carpet - click here. Difficult to show you over the internet but if you were to see these side by side against comparable products NOT using New Zealand wool you would be able to see how much "crisper" the colours are in the products that use New Zealand. As for the moths' munching habits, it's likely they will prefer a higher wool content product but it has been known for the blighters to munch through 50% blends too. If you are in a region where moths are reported to eating wool then avoid any doubt and opt for a carpet that carries a manufacturers moth proof warranty. There are many about. You can simply type "moth proof" in our search bar on our Flooring Megastore site and watch the results pop up. BOOM! There you go, minipie

I think I’m talking about both the perceived feel/look of something and the colour! Like the natural cork colours are both warm to touch and warm in colour, same with many of the engineered wood samples. I went to a really good floor shop last week near me in Stockport and discovered 3 LVT brands that I was quite impressed with; Harvey Maria, Green flor which does an eco floor that looks quite convincing to wood and Project Floors. I have a sample of the HM one but I’m awaiting the other two and then I’ll decide between those and the cork. I do really like the cork but it does also mark easily so I’m now wondering if it would hold up to kids and muddy boots coming in from the garden etc and we did want to use it in the hall and understairs toilet so it would be quite a lot of cork. I agree with you colourhappy that tiles is probably the most suitable flooring out of everything and that it’s can be warm looking, but my partner isn't keen! Typical! I think like Fi Mo we will most likely end up with LVT simply due to practicality reasons, although I am a bit sad not to be going with something natural. I think if I can find the most convincing product possible I can probably live with it...although I’ll probably keep changing my mind until I’m forced to order something, which will be soon!! it’s great to discuss it on here though :) Xx