Most definitely not solid wood flooring ... as everyone above has advised. The whole reason we stopped producing Solid Wood Flooring and manufacturing engineered wooden floors as opposed to Solid Wood floors is due to their inherent stability within 21st century installations i.e. underfloor heating systems / air conditioning etc. Our engineered wooden floors once installed look exactly the same as solid wood flooring (see below) and the usable hardwood wear layer (i.e. from surface to the tongue and groove ) is the same depth - so the same longevity, and you can have them oiled, bespoke stained , texturised to suit your interior. If you change your decor in years to come, you can sand your floor and stain to suit... These 2 floors are both the same ...Character Oak engineered flooring but the floor above has an antiqued stain - this would work well within an Edwardian interior ...whilst the one below is clear UV oiled Character Oak flooring. Character Oak works wonderfully in all interiors as it has a beautiful, timeless quality... https://woodflooringengineered.co.uk/

Standard wood such as oak is not a great material for doors as they can warp and twist over time. Our engineered timber doors have a Kerto Q core, Sapele Mahogany lipping and Tricoya facings- this combination prevents these issues and means that there will be no draughts due to shrinkage. The overall result of an engineered timber door is a stronger and more durable door which holds paint for longer and doesnt require maintenance. We do our doors in a 44mm or a 54mm slab with an optional thermal core, but an engineered door is definitely superior in terms of durability.

Hello, if you don't want sight lines then I wouldn't have Crittall to be honest (unless you wanted Crittall without the cross bars of course?? as they are super busy and won't give you a clear view of the garden) We opted to go for bi-folds with slimmer sight lines and wider panes so there would be less lines. On your size opening, it would take 3 bi-fold panes which means the central one is just glass. If you had sliding doors then you would likely have 2 panels with the bar being right in the middle (unless you can slide them into pocket doors!) Bi-folds - they even do frame-less bi-folds now or ones with the lines super narrow so I would get prices for those. It also depends on your garden - as you say, because we had the bi-folds leading directly onto a patio area. If you have to step down then the garden will feel quite separate anyway and so you don't benefit from having an open 'room' as you would with a semi flush or flush threshold and bi-folds doors. In that case, Alu french doors with side panels that don't have all the cross bars would likely be the cheapest option for you.

Ribena Drinker is absolutely right. But also let me add a few more info. Firstly reclaimed parquet (herringbone) was indeed glued down with tar and those lovely period block are a nightmare to clean and install. Blocks do not normally have tongue and groove lovely blocks but... a nightmare to install. It will be practically impossible to find reclaimed parquet with existing tongue and grove, simply because T&G are glued together during installation. Parquet blocks are normally made of pine, a softwood with a strong yellow or reddish tint once oxidises so less durable and versatile than oak. Oak blocks are available of course but are less common. As far as reclaimed planks (long boards) are concerned, plenty are available as reclaimed pine boards that are always without T&G. They will look like the picture below again they have to cleaned cut to size etc. Boards my not be straight, may have too much wear and tear, may be painted with lead paint etc. True reclaimed boards are a right pain that's why it's easier to install new products. However, there are plenty of new boards, made of reclaimed wood, mostly oak and pine, that have that aged feel but are easy to install. hope this helps