Which Plants Should I Choose for my Garden Pond?
Ready to plant up your pond or water feature, but not sure where to start? Read this expert guide
Water plants are not just for decoration – they play an important role in maintaining water quality and balance. Take a look at this guide to find out which types of plants you need, and for some suggestions of varieties to choose.
Offer shelter with lilies
Surface-leaved plants, such as waterlilies help to prevent algae and offer shelter for fish and other wildlife. Hardy waterlilies (Nymphaea) are known as deep-water aquatics. They have floating leaves and flowers, some of which stand proud of the water.
Choose good-quality, hardy lilies that have been stored in aquatic baskets. Also, make sure the rhizome (root stem) is hard to the touch and there are roots emerging from the sides.
Look for signs of root growth outside the aquatic pot, which indicates the plant has been grown correctly in the proper container and not just recently potted up.
Need some help with your water feature? Find landscape contractors and gardeners in your area
Surface-leaved plants, such as waterlilies help to prevent algae and offer shelter for fish and other wildlife. Hardy waterlilies (Nymphaea) are known as deep-water aquatics. They have floating leaves and flowers, some of which stand proud of the water.
Choose good-quality, hardy lilies that have been stored in aquatic baskets. Also, make sure the rhizome (root stem) is hard to the touch and there are roots emerging from the sides.
Look for signs of root growth outside the aquatic pot, which indicates the plant has been grown correctly in the proper container and not just recently potted up.
Need some help with your water feature? Find landscape contractors and gardeners in your area
Waterlilies to try:
1. Nymphaea ‘Pygmae’ are good for small ponds and water features:
3. N. ‘James Brydon’ is a medium, peony-shaped, double crimson-flowered lily. It can become vigorous, so plant in poorer soils to slow leaf production and encourage flowers.
4. N. ‘Gonnère’ is a stunning plant with double white, chrysanthemum-like flowers around green leaves. It will grow in water up to a metre deep and is ideal for medium-sized ponds.
5. Or you could opt for N.
‘Hermine’, which has slightly pointed leaves and white flowers that often stand above the water.
6. N. ‘Texas Dawn’ is the best mid-yellow waterlily. Flowers are flushed peach at the base and offset by large, red-speckled leaves. It flowers from early summer until autumn, but it’s only suitable for larger ponds.
7. N. ‘Joey Tomocik’ has the most vivid colour of all the yellow lilies, with free-flowering semi-double flowers that sit high above the foliage and give it an exotic look.
8. N. ‘Pink Sensation’ is a free-flowering, strong pink lily that outperforms other pink varieties. The blooms start cup-shaped and become star-like. The new leaves are an attractive rich shade of burgundy.
9. N. ‘Madame Wilfon Gonnère’ has beautiful, soft pink double flowers with a white flush around the edge. It grows well in deep water and can spread to 1.5m.
10. N. ‘Barbara Dobbins’ (pictured) is a large lily with flowers held high above the foliage. The exact colour depends on the maturity of the individual plant and weather – this can range from yellow flushed with pink to a lovely shade of peach.
1. Nymphaea ‘Pygmae’ are good for small ponds and water features:
- N. ‘Pygmaea helvola’ is the smallest yellow lily and best suited to shallow water no deeper than 25cm. It has colourful red and green leaves and is ideal for a patio tub or pond in full sun.
- N. ‘Pygmaea Rubra’ has star-shaped flowers that open pink and turn a warm red between June and September. They will happily grow in a shallow pond or half barrel.
3. N. ‘James Brydon’ is a medium, peony-shaped, double crimson-flowered lily. It can become vigorous, so plant in poorer soils to slow leaf production and encourage flowers.
4. N. ‘Gonnère’ is a stunning plant with double white, chrysanthemum-like flowers around green leaves. It will grow in water up to a metre deep and is ideal for medium-sized ponds.
5. Or you could opt for N.
‘Hermine’, which has slightly pointed leaves and white flowers that often stand above the water.
6. N. ‘Texas Dawn’ is the best mid-yellow waterlily. Flowers are flushed peach at the base and offset by large, red-speckled leaves. It flowers from early summer until autumn, but it’s only suitable for larger ponds.
7. N. ‘Joey Tomocik’ has the most vivid colour of all the yellow lilies, with free-flowering semi-double flowers that sit high above the foliage and give it an exotic look.
8. N. ‘Pink Sensation’ is a free-flowering, strong pink lily that outperforms other pink varieties. The blooms start cup-shaped and become star-like. The new leaves are an attractive rich shade of burgundy.
9. N. ‘Madame Wilfon Gonnère’ has beautiful, soft pink double flowers with a white flush around the edge. It grows well in deep water and can spread to 1.5m.
10. N. ‘Barbara Dobbins’ (pictured) is a large lily with flowers held high above the foliage. The exact colour depends on the maturity of the individual plant and weather – this can range from yellow flushed with pink to a lovely shade of peach.
Keep water healthy with oxygenators
Oxygenators grow quickly and help to maintain a healthy nitrate level in your pond. The foliage of oxygenators is fully submerged, which means they absorb carbon dioxide during daylight hours and release oxygen into the water.
They’re usually sold in bunches tied at one end with a small weight. If you prefer, you can plant them into aquatic baskets topped with gravel.
Oxygenators grow quickly and help to maintain a healthy nitrate level in your pond. The foliage of oxygenators is fully submerged, which means they absorb carbon dioxide during daylight hours and release oxygen into the water.
They’re usually sold in bunches tied at one end with a small weight. If you prefer, you can plant them into aquatic baskets topped with gravel.
Oxygenators to try:
1. Ceratophyllum demersum, more commonly known as hornwort, grows quickly and is a good oxygenator. It’s free-floating, so is best weighted or planted in baskets, and more suited to large ponds and lakes.
2. Hippuris vulgaris, more commonly called mare’s tail, is a British native. The spiralling, pale green, feathery leaves, held on thin stems, rise out of the water.
3. For a small pond, Sagittaria graminea is a dwarf form of arrowhead, with narrow leaves and small white flowers in June and July.
4. Ranunculus aquatilis, or water crowfoot, is one of our prettiest native oxygenators and is attractive to bees, too. It produces both submerged feathery foliage and, in late spring, free-floating, three-lobed leaves with white flowers.
4. Although not technically an oxygenator, Isolepis cernua, commonly known as slender club-rush or fibreoptic plant, is a small grass with tiny white seedheads that turn pale brown. It forms a small clump and works well in barrels and small water features.
1. Ceratophyllum demersum, more commonly known as hornwort, grows quickly and is a good oxygenator. It’s free-floating, so is best weighted or planted in baskets, and more suited to large ponds and lakes.
2. Hippuris vulgaris, more commonly called mare’s tail, is a British native. The spiralling, pale green, feathery leaves, held on thin stems, rise out of the water.
3. For a small pond, Sagittaria graminea is a dwarf form of arrowhead, with narrow leaves and small white flowers in June and July.
4. Ranunculus aquatilis, or water crowfoot, is one of our prettiest native oxygenators and is attractive to bees, too. It produces both submerged feathery foliage and, in late spring, free-floating, three-lobed leaves with white flowers.
4. Although not technically an oxygenator, Isolepis cernua, commonly known as slender club-rush or fibreoptic plant, is a small grass with tiny white seedheads that turn pale brown. It forms a small clump and works well in barrels and small water features.
Create a natural border with moisture-loving plants
Moisture-loving plants are often also called herbaceous bogside plants and, as such, like moist but well-drained soil. By using moisture-loving plants around the edge of your pond, you’ll create a transition zone between the water and the herbaceous scheme in the garden.
As aquatic plants die back in the winter months, use varieties such as Cornus alba and Salix alba in the moist areas to give you a structure that will blend into your landscaping.
Moisture-loving plants are often also called herbaceous bogside plants and, as such, like moist but well-drained soil. By using moisture-loving plants around the edge of your pond, you’ll create a transition zone between the water and the herbaceous scheme in the garden.
As aquatic plants die back in the winter months, use varieties such as Cornus alba and Salix alba in the moist areas to give you a structure that will blend into your landscaping.
Moisture-loving plants to try:
1. Zantedeschia aethiopica, or arum lily (pictured), is one of the easiest plants to grow. The white flowers, or spathes, appear in spring and summer. These have a bright yellow spadix in the middle and are surrounded by lush green, horn-shaped leaves.
2. The small, bright Primula vialii has dainty conical spikes of purple flowers appearing from bright red buds. It’s a favourite for around a pond’s edge and looks lovely planted in large groups.
3. Lythrum salicaria, or purple loosestrife, has lovely tall spikes of pink flowers with thin green leaves. It flowers from midsummer well into autumn. There are several varieties and they range in height from 45cm to 150cm. A good variety is Lythrum salicaria ‘Robert’, which has clear pink flowers on 90cm stems.
4. For the water’s edge on a large pond, you can add the vast Gunnera manicata, with rhubarb-shaped leaves that can measure up to 3m across. For smaller ponds, there’s the dwarf version, Gunnera tinctoria. On both plants, the stems and leaves are covered in large spikes, so take care when planting and cutting back. This plant will need covering in winter to protect it from frost.
5. For softening around a pond, by a waterfall or along a stream, try plants such as Veronica beccabunga, which grows to 10cm and has dainty blue flowers similar to a forget-me-not. We do have a native water forget-me-not, called Myosotis scorpioides, with pale blue flowers held close to the water surface, and there’s a lovely variegated form, too. You will need to keep on top of trimming the Myosotis to prevent it becoming too straggly.
6. Mentha aquatica, or water mint, has a lovely smell if you brush past it along the edge of a pond, and the leaves are a beautiful purple green if grown in a sunny spot. As this plant is late to flower, it can extend the flowering season, and the whirls of pretty lilac blooms are attractive to bees. It can become a bit invasive if left unchecked as, like other mints, it spreads by runners that creep along the top of the plant. This variety likes to have its feet in the water.
More plants to choose include Astilbe; Iris varieties Ensata, Siberica and Kaempferi; Actaea; Primula Candelabra; Primula Florindae; Trollius; Lobelia cardinalis; Ligularia; Kirengeshoma and even Verbena bonariensis, which unusually does well in dry and moist soils but, once again, likes to get its feet wet.
1. Zantedeschia aethiopica, or arum lily (pictured), is one of the easiest plants to grow. The white flowers, or spathes, appear in spring and summer. These have a bright yellow spadix in the middle and are surrounded by lush green, horn-shaped leaves.
2. The small, bright Primula vialii has dainty conical spikes of purple flowers appearing from bright red buds. It’s a favourite for around a pond’s edge and looks lovely planted in large groups.
3. Lythrum salicaria, or purple loosestrife, has lovely tall spikes of pink flowers with thin green leaves. It flowers from midsummer well into autumn. There are several varieties and they range in height from 45cm to 150cm. A good variety is Lythrum salicaria ‘Robert’, which has clear pink flowers on 90cm stems.
4. For the water’s edge on a large pond, you can add the vast Gunnera manicata, with rhubarb-shaped leaves that can measure up to 3m across. For smaller ponds, there’s the dwarf version, Gunnera tinctoria. On both plants, the stems and leaves are covered in large spikes, so take care when planting and cutting back. This plant will need covering in winter to protect it from frost.
5. For softening around a pond, by a waterfall or along a stream, try plants such as Veronica beccabunga, which grows to 10cm and has dainty blue flowers similar to a forget-me-not. We do have a native water forget-me-not, called Myosotis scorpioides, with pale blue flowers held close to the water surface, and there’s a lovely variegated form, too. You will need to keep on top of trimming the Myosotis to prevent it becoming too straggly.
6. Mentha aquatica, or water mint, has a lovely smell if you brush past it along the edge of a pond, and the leaves are a beautiful purple green if grown in a sunny spot. As this plant is late to flower, it can extend the flowering season, and the whirls of pretty lilac blooms are attractive to bees. It can become a bit invasive if left unchecked as, like other mints, it spreads by runners that creep along the top of the plant. This variety likes to have its feet in the water.
More plants to choose include Astilbe; Iris varieties Ensata, Siberica and Kaempferi; Actaea; Primula Candelabra; Primula Florindae; Trollius; Lobelia cardinalis; Ligularia; Kirengeshoma and even Verbena bonariensis, which unusually does well in dry and moist soils but, once again, likes to get its feet wet.
Protect from algae with floating plants
Floating plants provide valuable cover and protection for ponds. They cut down sunlight and help prevent green algae growth and blanket weed problems. Two thirds of your pond should have floating, submerged and oxygenating plants.
Floating plants to try:
1. Hydrocharis morsusranae, also called frogbit, is a native perennial with attractive green, kidney-shaped rosette leaves and tiny white flowers with a yellow centre in July and August. It’s great for covering the surface of shallow ponds, with leaves that reach 2cm across, floating on the surface like a miniature waterlily.
2. Stratiotes aloides, or water soldier, is a native plant with long, narrow, serrated leaves and has no true roots. The floating rosettes of prickly leaves carry white flowers in the summer, before sinking to the bottom in winter. In the spring, baby plants emerge from below, rising to the surface.
3. Lemna trisulca, or ivy-leaved duckweed, is the prettiest and least invasive of our native duckweeds. It has a delicate, two-tone, mid-green frond with leaves in three parts. The leaves help provide a habitat to many pond invertebrates, and it does well in shady spots around the pond.
Browse a range of garden water features in the Houzz Shop
Floating plants provide valuable cover and protection for ponds. They cut down sunlight and help prevent green algae growth and blanket weed problems. Two thirds of your pond should have floating, submerged and oxygenating plants.
Floating plants to try:
1. Hydrocharis morsusranae, also called frogbit, is a native perennial with attractive green, kidney-shaped rosette leaves and tiny white flowers with a yellow centre in July and August. It’s great for covering the surface of shallow ponds, with leaves that reach 2cm across, floating on the surface like a miniature waterlily.
2. Stratiotes aloides, or water soldier, is a native plant with long, narrow, serrated leaves and has no true roots. The floating rosettes of prickly leaves carry white flowers in the summer, before sinking to the bottom in winter. In the spring, baby plants emerge from below, rising to the surface.
3. Lemna trisulca, or ivy-leaved duckweed, is the prettiest and least invasive of our native duckweeds. It has a delicate, two-tone, mid-green frond with leaves in three parts. The leaves help provide a habitat to many pond invertebrates, and it does well in shady spots around the pond.
Browse a range of garden water features in the Houzz Shop
Provide wildlife access with hardy water marginals
Marginal plants are those that grow around the shallower edges of the pond, and can tolerate waterlogged soil or having their crown submerged all year.
They play a multitude of roles, offering height and shade, as well as access for wildlife to climb in and out, and they can absorb excess minerals in the pond more quickly than the submerged plants.
Marginal plants are those that grow around the shallower edges of the pond, and can tolerate waterlogged soil or having their crown submerged all year.
They play a multitude of roles, offering height and shade, as well as access for wildlife to climb in and out, and they can absorb excess minerals in the pond more quickly than the submerged plants.
Water marginals to try:
1. There are three main varieties of Equisetum, commonly known as horsetail. These plants always look good in larger groups in formal ponds and water features.
3. Caltha palustris, our indigenous marsh marigold or kingcup, is the first plant to flower in the spring. It’s one of the most prolific growers, with bright, buttercup-yellow flowers above a mound of glossy green leaves. Cut them down in midsummer to prevent mildew and keep them looking tidy.
4. Butomus umbellatus, or flowering rush, has rich green leaves that are triangular in section. They have lovely dainty clusters of pink flowers floating on tall stems, which can grow up to 90cm high in late summer. There’s also a rarer white version, which is lovely.
5. Carex riparia ‘Bowles’s Golden’ is good for a dark corner. Brown flower spikes are produced in summer above a mound of golden leaves.
6. Iris laevigata ‘Variegata’ has lovely green- and cream-coloured leaves, with pretty, short-lived blue flowers in the summer. Plant in large groups for a bigger effect. As this iris is not as vigorous as others, it’s a good choice for the smaller pond. Iris ‘Gerald Darby’ has unusual purple and green foliage, with sprays of violet flowers. These are white at the base with a yellow flash and dark veins – a real show-stopper.
7. For a nice bullrush choose Typha latifolia ‘Variegata’, which grows to 150cm and has a pale yellow, variegated leaf. For the smaller pond, opt for Typha minima, which has dark green leaves and only grows to half a centimetre. The more common bullrushes are too invasive for most garden ponds.
Tell us…
Are you planning to install a water feature or pond in your garden? Did you find this advice useful? Share your thoughts in the Comments section.
1. There are three main varieties of Equisetum, commonly known as horsetail. These plants always look good in larger groups in formal ponds and water features.
- E. hyemale has upright, bamboo-like foliage with black bands.
- E. japonicum has attractive dark-green foliage.
- E. scirpoides has fine, bottle-green foliage and is more slow-growing.
3. Caltha palustris, our indigenous marsh marigold or kingcup, is the first plant to flower in the spring. It’s one of the most prolific growers, with bright, buttercup-yellow flowers above a mound of glossy green leaves. Cut them down in midsummer to prevent mildew and keep them looking tidy.
4. Butomus umbellatus, or flowering rush, has rich green leaves that are triangular in section. They have lovely dainty clusters of pink flowers floating on tall stems, which can grow up to 90cm high in late summer. There’s also a rarer white version, which is lovely.
5. Carex riparia ‘Bowles’s Golden’ is good for a dark corner. Brown flower spikes are produced in summer above a mound of golden leaves.
6. Iris laevigata ‘Variegata’ has lovely green- and cream-coloured leaves, with pretty, short-lived blue flowers in the summer. Plant in large groups for a bigger effect. As this iris is not as vigorous as others, it’s a good choice for the smaller pond. Iris ‘Gerald Darby’ has unusual purple and green foliage, with sprays of violet flowers. These are white at the base with a yellow flash and dark veins – a real show-stopper.
7. For a nice bullrush choose Typha latifolia ‘Variegata’, which grows to 150cm and has a pale yellow, variegated leaf. For the smaller pond, opt for Typha minima, which has dark green leaves and only grows to half a centimetre. The more common bullrushes are too invasive for most garden ponds.
Tell us…
Are you planning to install a water feature or pond in your garden? Did you find this advice useful? Share your thoughts in the Comments section.
Before you start, be aware that pond plants can very quickly take over, so don’t plant too many at the beginning.
The pond here is one I cleared out, and you can see that it had quickly been overrun by pickerel weed and lots of large waterlily leaves.
Pickerel weed, or Pontederia cordata, is a lovely plant for a pond, but it’s best kept in large baskets to avoid it growing into big clumps.
Also, try to avoid high nutrient levels in your pond, which can lead to the growth of algae. You can do this by making sure you don’t top up your pond too often, if at all, with tap water, and by trimming any overhanging trees.