The sockets would be better higher up so they are above the shelf where the coffee maker will sit. One option (which you might not want to do as it's more complicated and maybe unnecessary given your layout) would be to make the doors bifold, so when they are open they both stack to the right of the opening, so that you can leave them open for longer without the left door getting in the way.

If you just have doors on the top part, then the drawers at bottom can be the full 800mm width - might even be able to get some Wren drawers that width which would make construction easier and then it would match exactly? The shorter doors would also make it easier to bi-fold them if you wanted to do that. It's a less streamlined look, but functions differently as you wouldn't have to open the doors to access those drawers.

Top shelves - they don't need to be full-depth, it's hard to tell what depth you're planning, but worth checking. And obviously check you will have enough height above the coffee maker to add beans if it's a top-loader and the shelf isn't too close - but also not so high you can't reach the cups on the shelf.

Thanks very much for your comment, much appreciated. Yes the sockets will move up and I will use the same quartz worktop we are having on the run beside it.
I did think about bifold doors, I think I will go and have a look at them today, thank you. I hadn’t thought about the drawers, we do have 800mm drawers at the other side of that wall so would maybe look good . I will do a wee mock up. Thanks again for your advice and suggestions.

Hi Denise I would simply treat it as a small, independent bespoke cabinet fitted into the alcove, rather than relying on the surrounding walls or attaching shelves directly to them.

The main point to consider is the two full-height doors. At 800mm wide, each door will be approximately 390–400mm wide and 2000mm high depending on the height of the plinth and infill at the top of the cabinet. Shaker doors of that size can become fairly heavy, so they should be properly constructed and fitted with hinges rated for their actual weight; at least four hinges per door or even 5 depending on construction of the door. A wide-opening, zero-protrusion hinge would be useful because it gives better access to the drawers and worktop inside. Also remeber to add cross rails when doors will be constructed to add additional stability.

I would arrange it roughly as follows:

Match the base plinth and worktop height to the Wren kitchen.

Use the quartz worktop for the coffee machine and other appliances.

Include two or three internal drawers below for coffee, mugs, tea and accessories.

Use adjustable dark-oak shelves above, ideally supported with cross panel across the 800mm span. So they will not sag.

Install LED lighting beneath the shelves, with the wiring concealed through the cabinet.

Include sockets and some ventilation if a coffee machine, kettle or toaster will be used inside. Steam and heat should not be trapped behind closed doors.

The cabinet should be built square and then secured properly to the wall. I would allow small scribe fillers at the sides rather than trying to force the cabinet tightly into an uneven alcove. The final dimensions should be checked after the flooring, kitchen units and wall finishes are complete.

Two conventional doors are probably the simplest solution 155 degree (zero protrusion) hinges . Bi-fold or pocket doors could improve access, but they would add cost and mechanical complexity. I would ask the fitters to confirm the finished opening, plinth/worktop height, hinge clearance, socket positions and ventilation before the doors and quartz are finalised.

Thank you so much for that really detailed comment. It’s greatly appreciated. I will sit with the joiner and go through all the details you have mentioned. I was considering having it open, so no doors but you have given me more details re the door which is very helpful. Thanks again for taking the time to respond.