Hi Oak and Broad! That's just it, it didn't say what brand only that it was brushed natural oiled finish. The Pamphlet states special cleaning with intensive wood cleaner and to use Maintenance Oil (natural or white) the white apparently gives a limed appearance. The Manufacture of the wood is Natures Own European Oak. It doesn't look as though it is brushed either, it looks dipped in possibly a wax oil the finish as it is oiled back and front and there are certain parts in the wood that does not look to be oiled especially in some knots. Which is why I don't really want to leave it especially a whole year before re-oiling. I have enclosed a couple of pics but I really don't know what information you will be able to see apart from its a dull finish Thank you for any guidance you can give. As you can see it's still a work in progress and the skirtings and kick-boards need to go on to cover the expansion gaps surrounding the walls and appliance cubbys

Hello Camille, I suspect that the problem in this case was from failure to follow instructions. The instructions say two coats, and in this case vixbath admits (in the comments) that they only put one coat on before the floor was exposed to water. I'm sure we've all thought we could get away with something like that (I know I have, anyhow) but it does mean this isn't an accurate reflection of how well Osmo works. When I did my worksurface with Fiddes Hard Wax Oil the two coats went on very differently. The first soaked straight in and the second sat on the surface. From the way the two coats behaved I wouldn't expect a single coat to be completely waterproof. Also, I am very pleased with the finish and scratch resistance of the Fiddes and would use it on a floor. You might find this helpful in making a choice even though it doesn't include wear tests (tricky to do though) http://www.peakoak.co.uk/guides/best-oak-floor-finishes-the-definitive-test/

One or two observations: Oak breathes, in as much as when wet it will expand and when dry it shrinks, that's why it is good for boat and barrel building, when wet the gaps close up and make it watertight. What that means for a worktop is that unless the wood is stabilised (soaked through with epoxy) it will expand and contract, if glued to the granite that means when expanding it will warp, staying still where the glue is and bending downward, not much but it will. Perhaps a less porous wood could be better, bamboo is good, then, if the counter top end is flush, you could screw and/or glue a stout batten of matching material to the end of the counter to add support ( extend it out past the front of the counter to ad support to the overhang) then glue the block to the granite with epoxy and screw up through the batten.

Hello, sorry to hear about your experience. I'm not a floor expert but wanted to share my experience and thoughts. If you plan to screed the floor again, it might be wise to research how long the screed really takes to dry before laying a wooden floor because even though it is dry to walk on, there may still be moisture in the screed. If you lay the DPM, then add screed on top, the moisture only has one way to go which is upwards into the wood floor again. Why do you need the self levelling screed? Is it because the floor is completely unlevel in one part of the room compared to another? Just from my own experience, I've just had my kitchen, hallway and extension installed with engineered floors back in October. We had a chimney breast removed and this chimney sat on a concrete floor, the rest of the floor had wood floor joists. As some of the concrete floor was disturbed during the building work, the builder said he was going to fix it by filling the gap with concrete but lay DPM in the between the joists so the damp would not go through to the joists. When the floor fitter came to check the site, I told him this was the plan for the area, he immediately said the floor would not be dry in time ( floor to be installed a week after the concrete ) and said he would not install the wood floor in that area as it would take months to dry and the moisture would go into the wood. The existing concrete also had some damp ( not sure if this is normal ), he used a damp meter. The builder was obviously not happy with this as he said it takes 2 days to dry and there was a bit of standoff off between the fitter and the builder. The floor fitter said yes it might take 2 days to dry to walk on but moisture is still in the concrete. Eventually I had to get the builder to remove the concrete floor section and replace it with joist. In this situation I decided to trust the floor fitter as this was his field of expertise. My point is, even if you have a screed, I think you also need some DPM or something in between the screed and the wood that stops the moisture from rising into the wood. You could also go to some independent flooring shops if you still need to look for new flooring as they are usually very knowledgable, explain your situation with the screed, tiles etc and they would should be able to advise you what to do to avoid the same thing happening again. Did you have the floorboards floating or glued?