It`d be more understandable if you could attach a photo of what it might look like approximately, just not very clear what you mean. I think with such a question you should contact directly to the company, which will do it, but I can tell you something about the countertop. I advise you to choose quartz, as this material is the most durable, it has a great glossy sheen, as you want, it`s resistant to moisture, and since it will be in the bathroom - this is the most important criterion. I have quartz countertops too, bought here Quartz Kitchen Worktops Hull so I know all the benefits of this material firsthand.

That’s a valid concern! It’s definitely a fine line with matte finishes since they can get too shiny if you're not careful. The ultra-fine Scotch-Brite pad is designed to be much gentler than something like a regular scourer, though, so it won’t have that same polishing effect. The key with soapy water is to keep the pressure light and work in small, controlled circle it's like "softening" the pad's effect while making sure it’s not too aggressive on the surface.

Agree with Minnie, excellent worktops but not heat or stain resistant but why would you put a hot pan straight on to your new worktop, if you treat them with care they'll last for years. Also its less porous and harder than granite and its the most popular worktop. Seeing more dishwashers that now 'feature' door opening as part of the drying cycle, i'd advise turning that off as i have heard of the steam staining the underneath. Newer tops are now silica low content/free due to fabrication health regulations, not heard of any issues with these, also seeing some that are prints ie the pattern isn't through the top but is layed on the top so where you have edges/cut outs it wouldn't look quite right imho. Any veined worktop will show a joint when you go round a corner as the pattern also changes direction, the joint will be about 1-2mm and filled with a colour matched compound. For hob splashbacks it can affect the price, quartz is usually sold by the slab [3.3x1.4 ish] so if the splashback can come out of the worktop slabs then go for it but if it means having to buy another slab then its expensive. I find that drainer grooves don't really work as they don't have sufficient fall to drain away so you can get limescale build up, i never recommend them.

You could consider an insurance claim. Ideally to fit the new worktop the splashbacks need to be removed, this will probably damage the walls so its quite a big job. You may find a fitter who is prepared to work with the splashbacks in place, but the sink run would have to be cut short to fit in between the splashbacks and then the gap filled with silicon. How to get the worktop in position may also mean removing some wall units as well. then for the 2 side worktops being able to slide under the splashback and making a decent job of the masons mitre, keeping an even overhang to the doors etc, not a job i would of undertaken when i was fitting. You mention water resistant laminate, if you mean compact laminate, the max thickness is 20mm so there'll be a gap. If you mean laminate but made with 'green' chipboard, it still needs sealing and if its constantly subjected to moisture it will still blow. I'd suggest a new worktop in a stone/abstact pattern colour as you have a modern door style, make sure it's a bullnose and not these edged worktops [i've seen these fail around sink area], get rid of the splashbacks and fit some metro tiles in a brick pattern, also get rid of the windowsill so that is also tiled instead of that gap you have under the sill. Reason for tiling is that if the splashbacks have been stuck on with silicon, even if the wall isn't damaged any silicon may affect the new paint. For the sink, you mention that you want to wash oven trays, so for a bigger bowl opt for a single bowl with a right hand draining board as well, looks like its a 600 sink base in the pics so there's plenty of choice, personnally i'd have a 1.5 bowl though as Betty says, also opt for a composite/granite [as below] so you can just drop the sink in place on a bed of silicon beading, stainless steel would ideally need the clips underneath [there are a few push in stainless sinks though with spring clips].