We supply all sorts of kitchen worktops but I’d never heard of them. Had to Google it. Wouldn’t like to be measuring my own worktops TBH just in case there’s a slight error. Don’t they send a person out to electronically measure them?

I think for practicality I’d go for quartz on both.. i have given up on ChatGPT as it’s putting things all over the place and mottling everything! However i would add a jute runner in front of the hob and some chopping boards so it gives the wood element. I’d look at Little Greene warm greeny neutrals and complementary colours, I used putti on the island with a lighter shade on the walls. i hope you don’t mind me saying but i don’t think the style of the dresser sits as well with the modern shaker and crittall doors, I might go for an updated style

You could consider an insurance claim. Ideally to fit the new worktop the splashbacks need to be removed, this will probably damage the walls so its quite a big job. You may find a fitter who is prepared to work with the splashbacks in place, but the sink run would have to be cut short to fit in between the splashbacks and then the gap filled with silicon. How to get the worktop in position may also mean removing some wall units as well. then for the 2 side worktops being able to slide under the splashback and making a decent job of the masons mitre, keeping an even overhang to the doors etc, not a job i would of undertaken when i was fitting. You mention water resistant laminate, if you mean compact laminate, the max thickness is 20mm so there'll be a gap. If you mean laminate but made with 'green' chipboard, it still needs sealing and if its constantly subjected to moisture it will still blow. I'd suggest a new worktop in a stone/abstact pattern colour as you have a modern door style, make sure it's a bullnose and not these edged worktops [i've seen these fail around sink area], get rid of the splashbacks and fit some metro tiles in a brick pattern, also get rid of the windowsill so that is also tiled instead of that gap you have under the sill. Reason for tiling is that if the splashbacks have been stuck on with silicon, even if the wall isn't damaged any silicon may affect the new paint. For the sink, you mention that you want to wash oven trays, so for a bigger bowl opt for a single bowl with a right hand draining board as well, looks like its a 600 sink base in the pics so there's plenty of choice, personnally i'd have a 1.5 bowl though as Betty says, also opt for a composite/granite [as below] so you can just drop the sink in place on a bed of silicon beading, stainless steel would ideally need the clips underneath [there are a few push in stainless sinks though with spring clips].

Honestly, I’ve been hearing Monolux mentioned quite a lot recently as well, especially from people doing kitchen refurbs in the Midlands. I haven’t personally used them yet, so I can’t give a proper long-term review, but I did spend ages looking through their site and project photos when we were comparing quotes. From what I saw, the finish on the quartz and the joints actually looked really clean compared to some of the cheaper companies we checked. A couple of the before/after installs looked surprisingly professional for the price point, too.