Help!! engineered wood flooring advice
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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- 6 years ago
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Engineered wood floors in kitchen
Comments (2)Hi there, here at element7 we have been fitting floors in kitchens for 15 years (in fact we do more kitchens than any other rooms) and have never had a failed floor, partly due to how well our floors are engineered and installed (we use our own installers) as well as the finishes. All of our floors can be wet cleaned and won’t stain (unless seriously abused). Regarding maintenance our oiled floors are typically re-oiled every 4-8 years (this takes approximately 2 hours and you can use them 2 hours later) and we have yet to refinish any of our lacquered or waxed floors (partly because unlike a lot of other suppliers we apply 8 coats of coloured lacquer (industry standard is 3 coats). Here's a few examples of kitchen floors we have supplied and installed....See MoreNeed advice on buying an engineered wood floor
Comments (2)We have several Engineered Oak products that could be exactly what you're looking for. Here is the link to our website: http://www.havwoods.co.uk/search/havwoods-construction-engineered-wood-flooring One of our floors that may be of a particular interest to you is our Volunta European Oak Project White. (which is showcased in House Bloomsbury- winner of the NLA, Don't Move- Improve 2014 interior design award) We have attached a sample image for you to look at....See MoreEngineered wood floor soooo bouncy!
Comments (4)You have to make sure firstly that the floorboards arent' going to move and that they are all in good condition, not moving etc. The problem with floorboards is that they shrink and contract with the heat or cold. Old boards are nailed down, and at the very least i'd screw the boards down so that there was much less movement in them. In my opinion they don't offer the best substrate for an engineered floor. If the engineered flooring is being laid in the same direction as the floorboards underneath, then - ( again in my opinion ), they are likely to be able to move. Obviously if you lay the boards horizontally across the floorboards, then the floorboards are providing a better, more sold base. I would normally lay a layer of Ply over the top of the floorboards and screw it down, then lay the underlay and then the engineered boards. There is no way it can move then!...See MoreNew Concrete Floor – Prep Required for Engineered Wood & Damp Proofing
Comments (1)Option 2 Can I have the concrete finished to glue engineered wood straight down? Yes you can as long as there is a DPM Is an epoxy DPM sandwich something that is done with a self-levelling compound? is the floor not level with the rest of the house? First level the floor than apply a surface DPM Can I get away without two whole screeds considering the new concrete is at a good level? Is there anyway of salvaging the front room oak? No way of salvaging it I am afraid. You could spend hours to scrape it at back but it will be messy to save very little. And then you'll have to match a new floor with the old one. I’m also in the process of re-doing damp proofing that wasn’t done properly first time round so having the bare concrete now enables me to have the full Sovereign tanking system applied. I can’t afford to do this everywhere though, but I’m particularly anxious about moisture getting to the floor from the sides which is something it mitigates against. Are there other ways of doing this? I think that if you had problems with moisture in the past, you need to address it once and for all. Once the problem is solved through the house then you can look at ways of installing your wood floor. Floating floor fitted on top on an adequate moisture barrier and overlay will do the job very well and you won't be able to feel the difference with a glued down floor. hope this helps...See More- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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