I would say that almost any colour can go with wood but not all shades of any colour. It tends to work best with more complex / less intense colours. So sage green or grey/blue would go well, but lime green or bright blue wouldn't go so well. Sage or grey/blue are usually available in off-the-shelf Shaker style doors, which you have there. They also go well with other subdued colours, so you could have either of those mixed with cream or pale grey. I wouldn't mix blue and green as you seem to have in your picture above, though, but that might just be my tastes. Also, I was extremely underwhelmed by the quality of oak worktops. They use a fast growing species (there are several species of oak) which has very little character and often a rather nasty orange tint. I chose a birch worktop from B&Q instead, which is much cheaper and has an amazing 'tigers eye' effect once oiled - absolutely no regrets there, my worksurface looks way better than my brother's more expensive oak one. Lastly, I did a lot of research and chose Fiddes Hard Wax Oil to finish the worksurface. Do not skimp on the finish, I've known people who have and they've univerally regretted it. I am extremely pleased with the Fiddes, water can sit on there as long as it wants and never sinks in. I know 2 people who chose different worktop oil brands and they have to wipe water off within 5 minutes or it leaves a mark.

I just wanted to share my experience because I am on a non existent budget too. I saw a picture of a bench I loved, contacted the carpenter, and he has just made me a birch ply kitchen for a total of 1600 euros, including fitting. (600 labour, 400 fitting, 600 for materials). He has kept his price low for me because he likes the project. I am guaranteed to use him now to build wardrobes, boxes, and shelving solutions as and when I have budget. Sometimes talking to individuals who work for themselves/do it on the side can result in very cost-effective solutions! I am paying 300 euros for brushed stainless steel countertops, and got a belfast sink for 100 euro including the mixer tap. Will send u a pic when it's done but my almost dream kitchen has been possible for like 2000 euros (£1800?) I wouldn't shy away from painting the units yourself as there are many tutorials online to show you how, but it is labour-intensive and eggshell paint on cabinets = drips!! You could always just get white or raw cabinets for now, and paint later when you have some cash? Make sure you use quality brushes if you go this route. Nothing more annoying than little hairs sticking in your lovely paint :-/

Hi I recognise that plan! Good to see you on another advice forum. Duropal make I think around 6 of their colours of laminate worktop upto 1200mm in depth. Really it all depends on where you are getting your kitchen from and their suppliers. For example if we are getting laminate worktop from a UK supplier then we get it from a 'cut and edge' worktop supplier, not just a 'blank' board supplier. A cut and edge worktop supplier will supply laminate worktop to a plan we provide, they will pre cut the masons mitre joints and profile all the edges. This is so much better than the fitter cutting blanks and gluing on laminate edges. I know from previous discussions on the other forum you were looking at Schuller kitchens, I assume this is not your choice now as you would not have these problems you are talking about with the laminate worktop, because Schuller have a huge range of laminate worktops, with lots of edge options and in all sizes! Anyway, ask your kitchen man about getting a price for the laminate worktop from a cut and edge specialist. CK

Oil will not keep a shine. It penetrates the wood and is used to keep the wood from drying with the heat of the kitchen, it prevents it from splitting and prolongs the life of the wood whilst still letting it breathe, ie contract and expand with different temperatures, as that is what wood does. There is no reason why you can't varnish your wood, you need to pick a very hard wearing Floor varnish. However, you still meet with the same disadvantages with oil............as soon as you put something hot on the surface it will leave a mark. Oil or varnish make no difference with regards food prep, you shouldn't prep on either! You will mark the wood, however, from a hygiene perspective a varnished surface is actually better because it's sealed. Most people will choose to prep and dish onto boards of either more wood or glass. I think most people think that by choosing wood they can do what they like to it, pan and heat wise............it's not the case. The only surfaces that are not affected by heat are natural stone.