So you chose to install a wood burning stove, and you dream of curling up in front of it with a soft fluffy blanket, a good book, and maybe some wine. It has been installed, serviced and is ready to go. You have been told how to turn it on and off, how to take care of the fire and how to ensure your home remains smoke free. There is just one little problem. You have no idea what kind of wood to burn. Here at Hearth of the Home we have put together a basic guide to get you started and on the right track. The most important factor you need to learn is the difference between a good burning log and a bad burning log. When wood is cut down its cells are full of water, this is called “green wood”. When you burn this the wood wastes heat by making steam and producing tar which creates lots of smoke whilst damaging your stove and chimney. In order to avoid this, logs must be “seasoned”- dried out to a maximum of 15-20% water- which involves splitting them to expose the insides and leaving them in a well-ventilated dry place for about a year. This log will then give roughly double the heat per kg and will produce far less smoke. A good way to test whether a log is good for burning or not is: -- Good Wood Will feel dry Will have a hollow sound when tapped Will usually be free from bark Often has cracks in the end where it has dried out Will burn easily and cleanly Will usually have been split Will usually measure about 100-200mm across -- Bad Wood May feel damp or dense, have moss or mould. Will have a dull sound when tapped May have bark firmly attached May be solid and free from radial cracks May be round, possible with leaves attached. Will hiss, spit and smoke when burned May be in big pieces There are two ways of you getting seasoned wood to use in your new stove. The first way is to do this yourself, make sure you have a suitable area where they can stay dry, and remember that it will take a very long time before they are ready. The second is to buy it from a good log supplier, the best way to find this is to go through an accreditation scheme such as Woodsure. This is an audit of whether the logs are really as dry as the supplier claims, making sure you do not get ripped off. To view our very own British Made Portway Stoves, please visit www.portwaystoves.com

I've gone for an open fire. I also replaced a gas fire. The original fireplace had been ripped out but rather than replace it, I went for a raw look which I like. With an open fire lining the chimney isn't mandatory, so I saved money by not doing that. However I did have to get the chimney uncapped and loose brickwork around the top of the chimney removed ( they just made the chimney stack shorter). Unfortunately once they opened it up, it revealed a lot of collapse down inside the chimney, so the work ended up costing £1500 with scaffolding. I don't regret it though, especially because recent high winds brought down another chimney stack in the street, and mine was easily as ramshackle before the work. As for the work involved in looking after a fire, I have central heating, so I only have to chop wood when I feel like a cosy night by the fire. It doesn't throw out as much heat as a wood burner but it doesn't have to.

I'm having a multi-fuel burner fitted (max. 6kw output) and want to paint the surrounding fireplace gold. What is the best type of paint to use? I was thinking of buying a specialist stove paint but I already have a pot of Craig&Rose water-based acrylic paint that I could use. Would this paint be suitable? At the moment, the fitter has just put up the white fireboard and fixed a bit of the surrounding plaster. Should he be plastering inside as well?

We’ve very recently changed our wood burner to a gas stove as we were concerned about pollution outside and to ourselves. We are very pleased with it but wasn’t a cheap or simple option. We had a gas radiator nearby so the flue and chimney were both changed. Of course you still have to consider gas is a greenhouse house. We did it to reduce the need for full central heating during the winter months.