Very much like my hall (almost identical except ours is 1922 and thus the detail is a tad more Edwardian in influence) ! I've added a wall light on the wall going up the stairs and matching pendants from Fritz Fryer and added a plain paper from Zoffany (called 'silk plain') . Thus the basic scheme is very plain and layered up with artefacts (tables, hall chair, paintings). I've added mirrors to throw light around the place..and am hunting for a distressed antique one to go right at the top of the stairs facing you. It looks as though your stairs go to left and right too... so adding the mirror will I think create more light and ambiance in that rather dark junction. I do agree that it would be lovely to have the stained glass replaced in the door. I added full door curtains with a upholstered pelmet over the door which makes it look much less stark (personally I don't think the little shelf at right adds anything and I'd remove it ;( ). . I chose an embroidered linen from Sanderson for the curtains and used the same fabric for the landing window and hooked that back with a French swan neck holdback and they were hung from a brass reeded Jim Lawrence curtain pole which goes very well with the Fritz Fryer lighting fitments. It's still work in progress as our beautiful carpet had to be removed due to allergy and we're still trying to get the best result on the oak floor in the hall. Be lovely to see what you do given your layout is so similar! :)

I think you've had some great suggestions already. I like your original idea of painting the garage door a sage colour which you could then pick up elsewhere with painted planters/window cils. A nice outdoor light above the house number will help to draw focus. Whilst I do generally prefer 3 panel glazed windows I think due to the fact the neighbours either side have ones similar to your current ones I'd go for more or less the same. The only change I'd make is ensuring you mirror the split top window across all of them so it ties in nicely with the top garage windows. A completely new driveway would probably make the greatest difference to the curb appeal. Something that sweeps around towards the door would be nice. You could then plant up the corner patch to help provide some visual interest and depth.

Hi all, Thank you so much for all the helpful comments and suggestions, and sorry that it's taken me so long to respond - house renovation and work have been keeping us on our toes! This has become a long post, so a quick reminder - we were looking to renovate and rewire our 60s house to update it and also make it more wheelchair friendly downstairs for when my mother-in-law comes to visit. We employed an architect and came up with what turned out to be an 'aspirational' design (much more than the budget!) so we ended up deciding to split things into two stages: Stage One to add a downstairs wetroom for accessibility, remove chimney throughout and add a porch Stage Two to do the extension across the rear, removing the conservatory to open out a large kitchen/diner and add a utility room The layout below shows both Stages One and Two as complete. Bits shown in red are existing walls which have been/will be removed (apart from the wall in red in the seating area below which is between the existing kitchen and dining room - that's a mistake). So.....the building work is now done - hurray! Stage One is complete, we are much poorer, and we now need to decorate the whole house :-) Some before and after photos below - please bear with the terrible photography skills. The rooms aren't big enough to allow for expansive photos!: We've re-plastered throughout, apart from in the kitchen and upstairs bathroom, as we'll deal with those later. Current challenge is deciding how on earth to pick paint colours and flooring throughout.... Anyway - hopefully that gives you a sense of where we've got to. Best wishes

Hi @Kaila Yates and thanks :-) the frame I made was out of aluminium right angle, it could be made from steel angle as well, to totally simplify, you could just make a rectangle out of say, 30mm square wood, glue it to the rear of the mirror (have the back plastic wrapped for safety and so any mastic/doesn’t react with mirror back and then paint it the same colour of your wall, remember it’s only to float it off the wall, it will sit back about 30mm back from the edge of the mirror so can’t easily be seen! drill and wall plug 2 long screws into the wall (horizontally level) and leave them protruding about 25mm then hang your framed backed mirror on them, not a great pic but you can see my frame here, this can’t be seen from the front or side due it’s position, So a wooden frame would be very simple and effective, all you need is a glass supplier to cut and edge your mirror exactly as you want it then make your floating frame to suit :-) hth bespoke does not always have to cost a fortune, all in this cost me @£60 to make! That’s the finished product inc the mirror cut and edged!, the mirror is actually a brass/ rose gold, I love the final effect of the colour