http://www.mr-resistor.co.uk/item.aspx?i=7253 does this work? Have you tried ringing some of the lighting companies and explaining what you need?

Hi We provide LED lamps in 2700K (very warm - yellow) , 3000K (warm white - yellow), 4000K (cool white - white will a hint of yellow), 5000K (soft daylight - very white), 6000K (daylight - more harsh white with hint of blue). Between different makes of LEDs - there will be variations too. What we have seen is that this is very much on personal preference and also how the light interacts with the colour of the units in your room. You should try some options if possible and see what you prefer. If you want to warm your room up go for warm white. If you want to have a sharper look go for cool whiite 4000K (we are seeing this is getting more popular), if you want seriously white then go for daylight (5-6000K). One thing we recommend against is using all in one LED fixture like the H2, because the LED market is moving fast, In 4 years time, if one fixture fails and this unit is not made anymore, it may be replaced with a non-matching fixture. With a LED GU10, you can just change the bulb without having to replace the fixture. Out Professional 7W DGP4 lamp has interchangeable lens (60 degree standard and 38 degrees optional) and really bright. Additionally, you should also check the under cabinet lighting. We have a new product X-LINK (www.x-link.co.uk) that is a modular linear light which is very bright, giving even diffused light across the across your total worktop without shadows between strips. If you need to discuss - please email me on gary.spanbok@dazz-led.com

I like the combo of the two styles it adds interest. Everything white works too, but I think i prefer the oak with the white. Just comes down to personal preference really. Neither way is right or wrong.

I would consider having something other than downlights - either in addition to them or instead of - in the dining/living area Downlights especially LEDs can be an unforgiving light and don't provide any options. In my kitchen I have LED downlights, however, I have dimmable halogens in the dining bit, with a pair of wall lights, which make it feel warmer, cosier and more relaxing. I would have liked a pendant light fitting but the downlights were already there and we didn't want to go to the bother of redoing the ceiling. I would agree with Jonathan on under cupboard lighting - don't underestimate how much light you need in a kitchen and utility room. We have under cupboard lights and also in-cupboard lighting in the glass fronted wall cabinets. We have 18 downlights in the kitchen part (roughly 4.5m x 5.5m) of our kitchen/diner on two different switches (the diner bit is on a third switch/dimmer and wall lights on a fourth ) which proves most useful. Our utility is a separate room approx 3.5M x 3.5m and we have 6 downlights in there. Probably obvious, but don't have the downlights situated directly above the worktops/cabinets, if you have wall cupboards. Try to ensure you get full coverage of light over the room, to avoid dark patches, that can be aided by having tiltable downlights.