Adding myself to this thread and bumping this back up, as would love to hear some professional opinions as I'm thinking of doing this too. LTS: our kitchen fitter has recommended the same - holes through the quartz to screw the wood into the cabinets below, and then glue. But somehow it doesn't seem very stable, and also his recommendation is for the overlap width to be the same as the overhang width to counterbalance the weight (i.e. 30cm overhang means 30cm wood sitting on top of the counter). I'm against using L-brackets or corbels, as they won't fit in with the look we're going for. Would flat steel bars support under the wood block work? But then they would be sitting on the quartz? Or do we route rectangular channels in the quartz to accommodate these steel bars?

Thanks everyone for all the positive comments. Just to answer your query Lisa-jane. The resin which you see lite fills the hole of the groove so there are no grooves etc so no problem with the crumbs. The light; you should never need to change them they should last approx 30,000 hrs. The ones in our showroom has been going for nearly 2 years 24, 7. If you did need to change them it is not difficult.

Well my kitchen designer had done ours in the 20mm with an overhang for seating. We are making it 30mm now but only to take the depth of an induction hob - otherwise 20mm would be fine. However, our island does have the side panels extending out to take some weight so it depends on your design?

I don't feel this room really fits a peninsula but obviously you'd like to sit with a view so putting sitting facing the window is a perfect solution. The sink doesn't need to be in front of the window as you hardly spend any time washing up these days, especially with a dishwasher. Move this to the left and continue the top over with leg space (perhaps 300 deep units for a sneaky bit of storage). Alternatively, could you have one door to the garden and do Carolina's idea over the other door? good luck Emily