I've been thinking about options to cover all basis and came up with this. To allow guests to use a bath/shower the ensuite would be shared. I added a wall in the master bedroom to divide it and add privacy so guests don't have to walk into the bedroom to get to the bath/shower. The upsides are that the ensuite is larger, includes a bath and shower and has more vanity room. Also, by diving the bedroom I can add sort of a walk-in wardrobe. The downsides are that there's only one bath/shower that has to be shared and guests have to walk through the walk-in wardrobe to get to it. Also, it reduces the size of the master bedroom but it's quite a long room anyway and it would cut out the light from the windows in the bedroom. Personally I don't see these as big problems but I guess some people won't like it. Do you think this is a good idea?

this is the vanity sink I have so I would like suggestions on fittings that would compliment it please include a radiator a bathtub shower and storage. my home is a 1960s bungalow so I have e to be careful not to go for a very traditional look.please post pictures. thank you and I look forward to hearing your thoughts

Most people get a carpenter to make the panelling. You can use moisture resistant MDF Providing you paint it well enough and seal around any edges that may come in to contact with water it will be fine. Here's a YouTube tutorial on how it's made:- Wood Panelling Tutorial If you don't want to go to such expense, then you could change the Panelling Idea to Beadboard. You can buy Beadboard in sheets, so it's faster and easier to put up. We have Beadboard in our kitchen instead of tiles ( we also live in an old Victorian house ). However, we've also used it or tongue and groove panelling in many renovations in the past. Cheaper options for storage that we've also done in the past is to buy a vintage / antique cupboard on Ebay so that you get the right style and then paint it. You can also mount sinks on them etc I like the last one the most, it's simple, easier to achieve than the first two and does the job, would look great with a freestanding bath on a neutral floor tile like yours, so no need to change the flooring.

A builder, the type that would do an extension etc, they will employ the nessesary trades at the right time. Ref load bearing walls, a structural engineer will tell you, and if they are and you want to change them theyll need to do the drawings to be supplied to builder, to ensure sufficient support is retained etc. Quick check you can do yourself is direction of wall vs joists, if they run in the same direction then it not load bearing, even if it is solid. Ref disruption between rooms, a builder will arrange all as necessary, but at a kitchen will likely require bathroom floor to be lifted if you're doing anything with lights or sockets in kitchen. Hard to tell ref plumbing as depends what the set up is and how you want to change it, remember this can be supply of cold, supply of hot, waste and CH if you're wanting to shift radiators.