😱 indeed, Victoria. That's how I feel but at the same time, the middle horizontal is a bit high for me. Sigh. Maybe I'll hunt out some neighbours with the original doors and try a few out! Thanks for the link, Joanna. The problem is I've fallen in love with some door knobs, they are an unusual finish and the manufacturer makes matching latches but they only do 60mm and 100mm to the backset. The short one feels a bit tight. The long one is too long, esp if I pair them with thumb turns on the bathroom and toilet doors. I feel so privileged to even have this dilemma but if you are going to spend a lot of money, you want it to be perfect! I shall ponder.

Thanks KWG - this is not good but there is always a solution. 1. The most hassle-free and least bothersome to the plumber is to increase the thickness of the wall. For condensation issues your plasterer has raised, you should ask for 'foil-backed' plasterboard. These are vapour panels that block or limit condensation. Get the best rated one. 2. The alternative is to change your radiators to a configuration that allows the pipe to attach from behind and the valves attach from underneath (see image). It will save you a crucial 8-10cm. On this note, I've just seen that I forgot to post my link for the more detailed BTU calculator: https://www.traderadiators.com/acatalog/heating-calculator.html If you can find something that suits your heating specifications and your taste, this will mean you won't need to compromise on your vision. I hope this has been helpful. Kind regards, Faten

If you take the 290 unit off the back run and island, I think that would be sufficient? As you've got kids I think a banquette seat would be ideal for family games, homework, crafts etc. Banquettes are around 60cm, table 90cm so that leaves 113cm which I think is more than sufficient both visually and practically as it's the same gap I have behind my kitchen table. Choose chairs that push under and consider the table legs carefully depending on the number of chairs wanted, pedestal tables often work. I would however take the sink off the island and maybe install a prep sink instead so the back run would be DW, sink, bin, induction hob (I'd integrate the oven personally). Is the shower room a must? It seems quite a trek to reach there with the number of doors unless there was a way to extend the 2nd front door forward and create access from the hall there. Also wondering if you'd considered removing the wall between snug and the old kitchen? It may make the area more useable rather than trying to fill the old kitchen

Thanks, Andrew. The layout in the CAD render I sent should work for you. I would urge caution with some of the other options proposed which move the WC - you just need to take care with adding too much distance & too many bends to your soil pipe. Another option is to move the basin closer to the door and have a large wetroom area beyond it which includes the WC - a bit like CreatePerfect proposed, but without changing the window, and with the WC in the “wet” area. It can either be close coupled, or a false wall (or half wall) added and a hidden cistern, with the wall fully tiled. I would then keep the shower itself further away from the WC. Personally, I prefer the first option shown, albeit a little unusual- but your space does not make an “elegant” solution easy!