You can realistically only use this as a proper room if you have it tanked. I think the advice and quote you have had from the basement specialist is the same advice you will get from any builder looking at it.

Hi. Our radiators (and pipework) need replacing and while researching different models of radiators I have come across the ThermaSkirt system by DiscreteHeat. From having a quick look around online it seems to good to be true, with the only potential downfall seeming to be a potential loss of heat near drafty doorways etc. Does anyone here have any experience with this system and is it something you would recommend? Also...we have a damp issue on our first floor which a damp expert has said is due to a combination of poor ventilation and the outer walls of the house having no insulation. He suggested that, alongside addressing the ventilation issues, we should install thermal boarding to all external walls...at a cost of £800 per wall, not including labour. This may be a dumb question; but if we decided to go for the ThermaSkirt system (which would run alongside all of our internal walls) - does anyone know if the heat generated by them (plus our correcting of the ventilation issues) would negate the need for thermal boarding? As the damp we have is due to the condensation of warm air when it hits our cold external walls. Any thoughts and comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you 😺

Hi we are in Swansea South Wales? I haven’t had chance to ask as this is only a recent thing we’ve noticed. It only seem to be on this side of the house at the moment where the rain has been hitting this side of the house? We left it for a few weeks to be honest because we didn’t move in for a while but has been gone for over a year now? The rain has been bad though. The builder pulled some out for another section of the wall where we had the same issue, he said the rock wool was soaking wet. Yes we always get drainage issues around the gate and front and side of the house. There is hole in the mortar I’ve tried to patch most of them up but there’s quite a few I need to fill. That wall where the damp is has been filled so there aren’t many left that side? Hi jonathan, it’s a brick house, I the water is from where the rain has been hitting great side of the house, soaking through and into the mode section cavity where the insulation is and soaking through to the internal wall? There no other sources of water only on the floor where the drainage isn’t the best?

Hi everyone, We are doing a major renovation of a 1930s semi and extension to the side wrapping round to the rear (open plan kitchen diner at the rear of the property) In the kitchen we currently have a suspended timber floor which has a 1.6m void underneath (we are on a slight slope hence the void). Because we are on a slope we are going to lower the floor of the rear and side extension by 30-40cm to gain more ceiling height. Architect has spec'ed block and beam as we are hoping to go with wet UFH/tiles. We want to lower the floor of the existing kitchen room of the old part of the house (not the extension) to gain more ceiling height in the new open plan kitchen - diner. This will then match the extension floor level. This does mean our floor level in the existing kitchen will go below the 1930 DPC. Of course the new extension will have its own new DPC. What are the possible solutions to this? I've come across the following reading online and speak to builders; 1. Because we've ripped everything out and have access, knock out 1 brick out at a time at the new floor level and place a new DPC and replace the bricks. 2. The block and beam joists, cover the ends going into the walls with DPM or something similar and then when placing DPM over the block and beam floor overlap it over onto the walls up till the old DPC and then plasterboard etc over it. 4. Go for a hard ground bearing hard floor and do the same a step 3, place DPM over the floor and wrap it up on the walls up till the old DPM. 5. Inject a new DPC into the bricks at the new lower DPC level. 6. Leave the bottom 30cm of bricks on the two walls where the new floor level is below the 1930s DPC, exposed (we were thinking of having some of them exposed as part of our design anyway). That should allow them to breath (?). Maybe paint a water repellant paint over the exposed brickwork. Sorry if these questions are silly - we have no experience and haven't broken ground yet! Just been reading around the subject and watching videos. Any advice will be much appreciated!