Free standing baths are only suitable for larger rooms where you have the ability to position the bath with free access all the way round, I regularly remove them from smaller bathrooms when doing re-fits, people like the aesthetics of the free standing bath and plough ahead and install them against a wall, the result is a disgusting accumulation of dust, fluff, pubic hair etc, this will happen quite quickly and you will regret having gone down this route. The concept of having the bath with no curtain is interesting though, in a bathroom around 2.1m square, most of the bathroom will be effected by splashing, the room will need a wet room floor former, and will require that the whole room is tanked prior to tiling, have a look at. (http://www.wetroominnovations.com) I usually use their Maxus formers and Purus gully traps. you can indeed get a flexible waste connection, have a look at McAlpine "Flexcon" range, these are available through any reputable merchants, these are quite substantial and would stand up to semi regular movement, if your free standing bath is an acrylic bath it won't be too heavy, so moving it would be quite straight forward, but I would suggest having small felt pads on the feet to protect the tiled surface, also from a drying point of view, Karcher have a very good little gadget for cleaning windows, which vacuums up the water, I often mention it to clients and any who have bought one have been delighted at how easy it is to use, it will leave the floor almost dry once you have used it, one note of caution would be your choice of floor tile, you will need a porcelain tile that has an R rating, this is a slip resistant rating and would be most advised. another note of caution, because the splashing will not be controlled, any vanity or wood based furniture will deteriorate. I hope this is of some help.

Hi, I'd definitely keep your feature bath. This can be painted in a nice Fired Earth Eggshell finish. I can't comment on your basin or wc, as I can't see them and have no idea what condition they are in? I'd tile the floor, shower areas and window reveals. I'd suggest upstands (skirting tiles) around the rest of the bathroom, then you can add some nice colour to your bathroom your painted bath will be a lovely feature. Have a look at some of my photosets which may give you some inspiration. Having said all this, I think your budget is unrealistic. The most important component in your new bathroom is the person who undertakes the work and this will cost you money. Good luck with your project. Jeremy

Ah ok! i would price up both options as your refurb wont be cheap then, it may be better to do exactly what you want as you’ll still be left with grout? I know the panels can go straight over tiles if necessary but do they sell ”trim” for dealing with the window recess?? Are you installing a glass screen so as to delineate the shower area? You could also just paint the remaining walls although they may need reskimming..

Preserving the timber sash window while ensuring its protection from water damage is essential, especially in a historical home like a Georgian property. Here are some suggestions to waterproof the window without compromising its aesthetic: Marine Varnish: Applying a marine varnish or sealant, which is commonly used on boats, can protect the timber from water damage. This clear coat provides a waterproof layer while allowing the natural beauty of the timber to show through. Reeded Glass: As you mentioned, replacing the current panes with reeded glass is a fantastic idea. It provides privacy without compromising on natural light. Ensure the glass is sealed properly to prevent any water leakage. Tiling the Window Recess: If the window sits deep into the wall, consider tiling the window recess. This can provide an additional layer of protection and create a consistent look with the rest of the bathroom, especially if the same tiles are used. Drip Rail or Ledge: Installing a small drip rail or ledge at the bottom of the window will divert water away, reducing the likelihood of it pooling on the sill. Quality Caulking: Use high-quality silicone caulking around the window frame to prevent any water seepage. Over time, caulking may deteriorate, so it's crucial to check and replace it when necessary. Ventilation: Ensure that the bathroom is well-ventilated. An extractor fan can help reduce the moisture level in the room, decreasing the potential damage to the timber window. Window Film: If you decide not to go with reeded glass, another option is to apply a waterproof, frosted window film. This offers privacy and a level of water resistance. However, it's mainly for privacy, and you'll still need to address waterproofing the wood itself. Shower Screen: Instead of a roller blind, consider a fixed or hinged clear glass shower screen that spans the height of the shower/bath area. This can help divert a lot of water splash away from the window. Regular Maintenance: Regularly check the window for signs of water damage or wear and touch up the sealant or varnish as needed. Consult a Specialist: Given that it's a Georgian home, consulting a restoration specialist or an architect who has experience with historic properties can provide insights tailored to the unique needs of your house. With a thoughtful approach, you can maintain the charm of your timber sash window while ensuring its longevity in a bathroom environment.