In our new kitchen we got a double drawer dishwasher, so we always have space for dirty stuff. Our tea towels and hand towels live on a pull out rail in the left hand cupboard (where the rinse aid and washing tablets also live) and washing up brush, washing up liquid and sponges & cloths, live under the sink in a drawer in the right hand cupboard. Everything gets done in the dishwasher, other than roasting pans, saucepans etc, which get hand washed, drained for a while and then finished off with the tea towel and put way more or less right away. Other than that, there's only our expensive wine glasses, that get washed and dried immediately. All of which tends to keep the area quite clear all the time. I would say that the greatest difference has been made by the double dishwasher, we always used to have dirty stuff hanging around waiting, either for the dishwashing to finish, or waiting for it to be emptied of clean stuff.

Hi woodster1987, Traditional paint brands have paints for walls & ceilings as well as wood & metal. Paints for walls & ceilings are available in matt finish and sheen finish. Matt finish, depending on brand and range, could be non-wipeable, wipeable and washable. Those reflect little light, upto 8%. Sheen finishes (Soft Sheen, Silk, Eggshell) are best for kitchens and bathrooms as well as stairwells and hallways and light reflection upto 30%. Those are durable and washable finishes. Paints for wood & metal are "made for purpose", and come in Satin, Eggshell and Gloss durable finishes with a higher sheen. The least shiny is Satin, the most Gloss and High Gloss. Last decade those were mostly oil based, but today most are water based and low odour. There are some paint brands that provide matt finish for walls and wood, but those shouldn't really be used in kitchens and bathrooms and high traffic areas. Please note, whatever finish you choose, no matter what paint brand you use, the old woodwork must be sanded to add "key" - and undercoated before applying finish coats. Are you London based? If yes you could call PAINTFORME® for free consultation. Hopefully you find this helpfull. Kind Regards, Paintforme

thanks all! Would definately have to start it just past the 2nd step anyway due to the light switch. it's existing staircase and room @minnie101 but we just added the en-suite. It originally had the rail to the right on the short side so nothing on the return area. That's what I was wondering as well ie the return part - it's only one step down from the bedroom floor so technically shouldn't need a short rail there. Will measure it just up to the top main step then - wasn't sure if I could take it further up or if it would look odd. Shame as I saw a lovely anthracite metal rail but it only went to 2m! bah.

@Janet Cogley Wouldn't be completely blocking up the existing FD just putting a window in the existing same width opening but yes blocking from below that new window. And opening up the lower portion of the existing dining room window to fit a new french door - we got a quote for all jobs plus the wall pushed down that don't seem too high. However it does require a building warrant, architect and Structural engineer that adds up too.. I am starting to think it might be a good idea to check the reverse as you are suggesting - would it be more or same or less expensive to do a replumbing for the sink, rewiring for the appliances etc if we were to flip the kitchen to the dining side hmmm, thank you.