Construction
Work a New York loft mood The pitched roof extension at the side of this Victorian property helped the owners achieve the New York loft-style warehouse space they were after. The professionals at Mustard Architects designed the extension to blend in with the brickwork of the original building, and the pitched roof gave them extra height without the addition looking boxy and imposing.
Fill in This two-storey extension between two end-of-terrace properties has a timber frame and a Douglas fir exterior together with a sedum roof, bringing a touch of nature to a town setting. It’s worth bearing in mind that a timber-frame, timber-clad addition makes less substantial foundations a possibility, which could save on build costs.
Bind together This extension is clearly modern, but the boards of the red cedar cladding were chosen to match the size of the Victorian brickwork to tie the two together. If you like the idea of timber cladding silvering over time, follow this example by opting for an untreated wood that will allow the colour change.
Choose your handles Modern windows generally come with numerous handle options. As a general rule, I’d advise a brushed-steel handle, as it will be easy to match with your internal door ironmongery, the handles on your kitchen units, and other features, such as light fittings. If you’re thinking of going for chrome, consider the fact that it gets marked easily. White and black handles are another option, but they don’t look as high quality as other materials.
Calculate insulation values Although the material you choose doesn’t necessarily affect how heat-efficient your windows are, insulation can vary for numerous other reasons. The quality of insulation is calculated by a system called U-value. The lower the U-value, the more effective the material is as an insulator. Drivers of this metric include the glazing type, the age of the frame, the design of the frame and the quality of the installation. The age of your property will determine how much U-value you’ll need for your windows. For example, an older property will be less well insulated than a home built after 1995, when buildings were required to have a filled cavity wall (or, in some areas, a thermal performance at least equivalent to a property with insulated cavity walls). Ask your architect or engineer to help you decide which is the most appropriate U-value for your new home.
Allocate your budget One of the main things to consider when choosing a material for your windows is the cost. Each type of window comes at a different price. uPVC windows are generally the most cost-effective, while aluminium is slightly more expensive. Pricier still is timber. The costliest option is a composite of timber and aluminium called alu-clad. The insulation you achieve with all of these materials is more or less the same, but the choice depends on how much you want to spend and the quality you’re looking for. It’s somewhat like buying an expensive German car.
Do I need radiator valves? Yes! Valves are used to control heat output, so you’ll need a pair for every plumbed radiator in your home. Choose from manual valves or thermostatic ones, depending on the pipework you have in place – an expert will be able to advise you. Manual valves allow a constant flow of water into the radiator. In contrast, thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) sense the air temperature around them, then regulate the flow of hot water to the radiator. You set the temperature level yourself, so the space is always comfortable for you. TRVs are easy to adjust, so you can save money by choosing a lower setting: once the room reaches the temperature you’ve chosen, the radiator will switch off. “Valves not only enhance the function of a radiator, but its look and style, too,” says Hickman. “Options available range from traditional to contemporary solutions, whether that be straight, angled, cubed or crosshead in design.”
What about finishes? A premium finish to radiators or towel rails will allow you to move away from the standard white options long associated with the home. “Metallic finishes, such as brushed or polished chrome or stainless steel, nickel and gold are hugely popular, as well as antique bronze, copper and brass finishes “ says Birch. “Many models can even come with a textured or sculptured finish.” That being said, chrome still remains the most popular finish, as it suits both traditional and contemporary kitchen and bathroom schemes.
Which materials work best? It really depends on your individual requirements. Mild steel is Birch’s top pick. “Not only is it suitable for all types of heating system, but mild steel radiators also deliver a high heat output, so are extremely efficient,” says Birch. Stainless steel is another popular option; malleable – so it can be welded with ease – as well as durable. Moreover, it’s recyclable, making it an environmentally friendly choice. “Aluminium is a good material, because it heats up quickly, doesn’t corrode and is the lightest of all the radiator materials,” adds Bal Seira of Radiating Style. “Aluminium radiators also offer the benefit of being recyclable.” Cast iron often comes top of the wish list, with choices ranging from reclaimed models to reproductions. Be aware that cast iron takes a while to warm up, but it retains the heat well.
How much heat will my radiator give out? “The easiest way to work this out is by using a BTU [British Thermal Unit] calculator, which many radiator and towel warmer manufacturers provide on their websites,” says Birch. “Calculating the BTU for a room is a simple process that involves entering a few details, including which room is being catered for, the dimensions of the space, whether the home has single or double glazing and how sheltered the building itself is,” Birch continues. “The results will help you determine how many radiators are required, and how powerful they will need to be.”
How does moving my radiator affect my décor? If you’re working with a radiator that’s connected to your main central heating system, then the whole thing will need draining before you can remove your chosen radiator from the wall to avoid damaging the floor with any spillages. “If you’re working with papered walls, then there’s a strong possibility that once the radiator’s removed, you’ll be left with holes from the fixtures and fittings,” says Birch. “A tip if moving a radiator to another papered wall is to try to position it on a central strip of paper. This way, you’ll only need to replace that section, rather than having to paper the entire space. Make sure you keep a spare roll or two for this.” Flooring is a key point to consider when moving a radiator. If you’re running the radiator off a central heating system, you’ll need to lift the floorboards to gain access to the pipework before relocating it. “If there’s a thermostatic valve on your radiator, be sure to turn it down to zero before disconnecting the tail pieces and removing the radiator,” advises Birch. “If you fail to do so, the temperature will drop and potentially open the valve, which will result in flooding.”
The flat was gutted and completely redesigned. “We took all the partitions out,” says Davies. “The brief was to be as clever as possible with the available area.” There was a lot of circulation space in the original configuration that’s now incorporated into the living area. “We also maintained the height of the door openings and fitted large pocket doors to the kitchen and bathroom,” says Davies. “This was tricky because of all the services within the kitchen wall, but it was important to create clean visual lines down the flat.”
Light up as well as down Concealed lighting behind this mirror helps to create even, shadow-free lighting. Lighting from above as well as below reduces shadows from downlights and, coupled with direct light sources elsewhere in the room, provides great make-up lighting. Developments in high-quality LED lighting have greatly improved the colour rendering for this style of light. A fluorescent would work well, as it has a 360 degree range, which would give great coverage. Whichever route is chosen, it’s essential to observe IP rating requirements.
Let the lines shine The clever lighting in this design transforms these shelves into sculpture. It’s a wonderful example of using light as art by building it into the fabric of the interior. It works so well because the light source is hidden while being in full view. It’s not clear whether the thick diffuser is part of the fitting itself or whether it’s a separate cover but, either way, it’s doing an effective job at concealing the actual diodes. If not concealed, these would give you a dotty effect.
Go outside Concealed lighting can work wonderfully well outdoors, where there is less need for direct light in the evenings. It provides enough lighting for everyone to be able to see, but keeps it wonderfully low-level and atmospheric. Protection against water ingress is essential. Fittings need to be at least IP65 rated, and the cable connection is equally important. Most external lighting failures aren’t to do with the fittings themselves, but how they were installed, so ensure that any cable connections are completely sealed.
Highlight a feature Concealed lighting can make materials and finishes really stand out. Here, the concealed LED linear fitting makes a stunning feature of the textured stone-effect wall in the changing room, and almost gives the appearance of daylight coming in from above. The LEDs are warmed slightly with a colour filter so they don’t look too cold compared to the golden light sources in the sauna, but not so much as to take the colour out of the striking wall tiles.
Heighten a room Concealed linear lighting is often used to help visually raise the height of a space. Here, the cove lighting on the rear wall lifts the eye up, and works with the low-level lighting in the pool outside to create a greater feeling of vertical space. Achieving this effect needs careful advance planning. LEDs require a driver – the power supply for an LED system – and it’s important the drivers are situated within the correct operating distances. Siting the driver alongside the fitting can create a shadow on the light, so driver locations and cable routes need to be planned well in advance to avoid this.
Be careful with colour temperature This bathroom shows how attention to colour temperature is critical to achieving the desired effect. There are low levels of natural light in the room, but instead of it feeling dark, the warm, golden tones provide a wonderful, ‘candle-like’ atmosphere – perfect for winding down at the end of a long day. This would be a fairly complex installation, and would require early planning and attention to detail, particularly regarding water and maintenance. See how to get your lighting right for beautiful bathing
Accentuate natural light The lighting in this kitchen sees a clever merging of natural and artificial light, making it a very bright and inviting place to be. This space works so well because the colour temperature of the lighting – between 3000K and 4000K – sits comfortably with the natural daylight. If the artificial light were warmer, it might draw attention and highlight its difference to the natural light, potentially creating a slightly dingy feel. Instead, it adds to the daylight and emphasises the strong architectural lines of the space. The coloured under-bench lighting makes a wonderfully warm and fun accent light.
Integrated lighting LED can be integrated into the fabric of a building or its detailing in new and innovative ways, to create very striking effects. If integrating fittings, it’s even more important to make sure they are high quality, as they’ll be difficult to change. Remember to consider maintenance and access requirements at the design stage. Even though LEDs have a much longer lifespan than other lighting choices, they still won’t last for ever.
Beam widths LED lights, both integrated and retrofit, come in varying beam widths. You can think of beam width as the size of the cone of light the fitting produces. Smaller beam widths, such as 10 degrees, are perfect for highlighting a focal point. Around 20-30 degrees work well for downlighting in higher ceilings, and beam widths of 30-50 degrees provide a more diffused light, which is good for lower ceilings and niches.
Temperature Concern over the temperature (from warm to cold) of light is one of the most common issues we hear about LED. Temperature is measured in kelvins and LED is offered in a wide range, from 1850K (the colour of sunset) to 6000K+. Temperatures over 3000K are psychologically cool, can be invigorating and aid concentration. 2700K to 3000K is the temperature people most associate with ‘cosiness’. Think about your space, what it’s going to be used for and how you want to feel. This floating ceiling is lit with an energising cool white, ideal for this contemporary pool. But while it looks great here, it might not suit a living room or bedroom quite as much, so give it some thought beforehand. It’s a good idea to test out lamps and fittings beforehand, as one manufacturer’s 3000K might look quite different to another’s.
Dimming You need to be careful when dimming LEDs, as it’s more difficult than with traditional light sources. It’s best to go for a tried and tested combination of fitting, driver and control to avoid things like flickering and jerky dimming. There are a number of ‘dimming standards’. 0-10v is widely used for smooth dimming of LED fittings. DALI is commonly used in commercial applications, but is becoming more so in residential properties, as it gives great flexibility over individual fittings and can simplify the wiring scheme. DMX is all about colour and it enables the different chips in a colour-change fitting (red, green, blue and sometimes white) to be controlled individually. You can think of it as colour-change lighting done professionally. Each dimming method requires a slightly different cable infrastructure, so it has to be thought about in advance. Seek expert advice on which dimming standard makes sense for your project.
Drivers A driver is to LED lighting what a transformer is to a regular halogen light. That basically means a driver steps down a mains input to supply the light. Drivers are integral to retrofit LEDs, but need to be fitted for integrated ones. Depending on the output of the light fittings, they may require one driver per fitting or might be able to share a driver if they are smaller accent lights. Work out in advance how many cables should be run in a given area. Drivers need to be hidden, somewhere discreet but also accessible, typically within 10-20m of the last fitting, but check specific installation instructions. Drivers come in different versions depending on whether you want to switch or dim the light and which dimming method you want to use. It’s best to get expert advice on compatibility between fittings and drivers to ensure the combination works as you want.
Lifespans A retrofit lamp is trying to fit everything into the size of the bulb, whereas an integrated fitting can use the whole assembly for its thermal management. This means the potential quantity of light and the lifespan are better from an integrated fitting. A top-quality retrofit LED lamp has a claimed life expectancy of 15,000-30,000 hours compared with 50,000 hours for a top-quality integrated LED fitting. Because it’s integrated, and therefore requires an electrician to install it, the reliability is even more important, but reputable manufacturers offer 3- to 5-year warranties. Remember to always prioritise quality – a really good LED retrofit lamp is better than a poor-quality integrated fitting.
Integrated versus retrofit lamps There are two ways you can go with LED lighting – an integrated fitting or a retrofit lamp (bulb). An integrated LED fitting is one in which the thermal management and light source are both integral to the fitting, so you can’t simply change a bulb (as you would with a retrofit lamp), but rather would need to change the entire fitting. A retrofit LED lamp is an LED lamp that looks like a traditional incandescent or halogen bulb and is inserted into the fitting in the same way. It is separate to from the fitting and can easily be replaced.
Quality The first thing to understand about LED lighting is that there is a significant difference between good-quality and poor-quality fittings and lamps (a lamp is the technical word for a bulb). It’s one of those markets where there really is no short-cut or cheap solution. If you’re not paying a lot for a bulb or fixture, there’s probably a reason. The quality of LED lights can vary hugely in terms of output, efficiency, the colour of the light and the way the light makes other colours look, so it’s important to do your homework. A low-quality LED light can look yellow, dingy or overly cold. You need to buy from a reputable source, understand what you’re buying, and be prepared to pay significantly more than you would have done for halogen/tungsten sources. In the long run, buying top quality now will save you money, and give you years of enjoyment.
Be creative with shades If you want the effect of a lit, dropped-ceiling feature but don’t have the option to fit one, it’s still possible to achieve a similar effect with an oversized shade. The large shade gives a coffer-like effect on the ceiling, while the floor-standing lamp in the corner adds to the effect, with intimate lighting over the dining area.
Make use of eaves Even the smallest dropped feature can make a difference. Here the coffer is scarcely more than a shelf, yet it provides a diffused, glare-free light source in this beamed bedroom, while visually lifting the space. This is a good option if you’re carrying out a renovation project and don’t have the scope for major construction work.
Recess rather than drop LED has made it possible to install a permanent recessed linear fitting as a practical alternative to the dropped ceiling. LEDs now offer relatively high output from small fittings, and their long life-expectancy should mean years of hassle-free great lighting, without any need to replace parts. To install something like this, choose the best-quality fittings you can because you will not want to be changing them for a very long time. You should be looking for a manufacturer with a proven record for longevity. If unsure, take advice from a lighting professional.
Experiment with light output Only two walls in this modern changing room are lit with ceiling-recessed lighting, so it creates a dramatic area of shadow. What really makes it different though is the amount of light produced by the fitting. Combining a high-output fitting with optics designed to direct the light down the wall puts the colour and texture of the tiles centre stage.
Plan your cabling If you are clear on the specification of the light source, it makes it much easier to plan your cabling. An LED fitting will require a driver, and perhaps more than one depending on the total length of the assembly. It’s best to locate the driver away from the fitting, rather than trying to hide it in the coffer where it might create an unwanted shadow. Understanding which fitting is being used will allow you to work out the correct drivers to use and where to put them, well before your electrician starts to pull in cables.
A partially dropped ceiling that doesn’t cover the whole area of the room can offer real flexibility. It’s easier to maintain the fittings as you can gain access to them. You can also locate any drivers right next to the light, with no fear of shadows. Here, the ceiling also serves as a place to mount audio speakers, as well as fibre optics, which add magic with a starry ceiling effect
Each individual installation is different, but it’s possible to visually lift or lower a ceiling with different treatments. As a rule of thumb, a perimeter light source that highlights the edge and creates a darker centre will appear to lower the space. Conversely, a light source mounted on a central drop and shining light outwards will lift your eyes upwards and elevate the space.
A dropped ceiling, or a central coffer can look fantastic, but remember to check your window levels. Make sure the lowest point of your drop is still above the highest level of your window. If you fail to do this, you may be faced with an odd view from the outside looking in.
The sloped glazed roof ties in with the industrial-style ceiling in the kitchen, created by exposing the joists. The builders matched the rough finish of the joists with timber supports on the skylights, then painted everything white to create a light, airy space.
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