Hi Lucy,things have moved on loads over the last few years . We have just started using a system from Ener-j . Their dimmer modules are very compact and fit behind the light fitting . They work off a wireless/battery less switch which can be placed anywhere . The app they have is one of the best I have seen .For a mid range product these are very cost effective. They can also be intergrated with Alexa and google home . If you need any more info please give me a call , Michael , 07527405712

We are having a mixture. Brushed steel in the kitchen to go with the appliances, as they are quite visible at worktop height or in the sides of the island. White flat plate in the hall and drawing room. White plastic upstairs. I agree that it’s better to get white plastic from a reputable supplier which won’t go wrong, than a cheap metal socket or switch which looks the part but will give up within a year, or be a nightmare to fit. Also bear in mind the flat plate ones require a deeper back box (35mm) so if you already have standard 25mm ones you won’t have the flat plate option.

Hi I'd definitely recommend spending a little extra and having the Brass sockets to match the Togle Light switches. I worked for a client in Norfolk, who had everything matching with togle switches too,(you can see pics on my projects page) and the difference between the standard white sockets to having the matching Brass, is undeniable, and makes the space looking 'finished' as apposed to maybe changing in future. Some prefer the more discrete look of a clear sockets or white socket on a light wall, but if there's budget, and you're drawing the eye already to the togle switch and I'm assuming you like the Brass colour in this room, why not add this with other sockets and accessories etc. Hope this helps! Speak soon - Kerry

It depends rather on what the wall is constructed of and how far you want to move the switch. It is probably easier (and less dusty) if it is a wooden stud wall than if it is built from brick. If you only want to move it an inch or so then you will just need to extend the hole, move the switch and then fill the space left behind. But if you want to move it further than that then strictly speaking you will need to move the cable as well since the regs say that the cable is supposed to run vertically or horizontally from the switch. Since you will be covering up the old position the easiest solution would be to put the new switch horizontally positioned from the old one. Run a cable from the old switch to the new and fit a blanking plate over the old switch. Less filling and it satisfies the regs with regard to cable position.