polkadotjen you need to look out for different root stocks when buying an apple tree. Apples are grafted onto different roots so you end up with different sized trees. M27 and M9 are the smallest - and you can keep them compact by pruning and cordoning. If you are only having one apple tree make sure it is self pollinating - Cox's Orange Pippin needs another variety to pollinate properly though new self fertile forms have been developed. Good luck with your move.

Morning Jacky, I am a keen gardener with an RHS course behind me and I was taught that looking for trees with 3 seasons of interest for a garden is always a good idea ie blossom in spring, pretty foliage in summer and autumn fruit. Something like Amelanchier lamarckii which gets to 10m high and 12m wide has pretty dainty blossom in spring delicate bronze foliage in summer and red orange leaves in autumn. The birds also love the purple black fruits which follow. Or a Malus 'John Downie' or Malus Floribunda both vigorous crab apple trees with a long season of interest. I would probably not go for the Tuscan pillar conifers because they will act as pointers drawing your eye to the houses you are trying to screen. Birch (Betula Utilis var Jacquemontii are beautiful however they will reach 15m or possibly consider weeping birch Betula Pendula "Youngii' which makes a dome shape and gets to 8m high and 10m wide. Perhaps have a look at the RHS website which is very helpful.

Absolutely echo comments above regarding raising the soil level around the tree, a big no no as it will mean at best the tree will struggle and fail to thrive and will probably eventually die. Decking is a good solution if you want to install a seating area around the tree, with planting around it to soften the edges. I would maybe look at a composite decking as it will mean less maintenance and will not become as slippery as timber in a shaded area, also if going for a contemporary look it can look very sleek, especially if choosing a grey or even black. You could also add in some lower growing shrubs, herbaceous, spring bulbs etc and create a edge of woodland feel to this area, which would have interest and create a lovely view, whatever the time of year. What ever you do good luck.

Hi. I think pruning the roots on a birch tree would be prohibitively expensive( and probably pointless). Ideally trees need to drop their own leaves onto their own roots and for nature to take its course in terms of temperature control and moisture retention etc. As soon as there is human intervention the roots will suffer, from compaction, dehydration or just severance. Certain trees will 'put up' with interference better than others. Birch is a colonising species and therefore fairly tough. I think your options are as follows; cut straight through the roots and take a chance that the tree will be unaffected. Stop the edging where you have and start again a similar distance the other side. Or you mention slabs to the lawn edge? if you are laying them horizontally as in a patio, lay the ones over the roots on sharp sand or a very lean mix of sharp sand /cement. If you are using 100mm x 1000mm slabs as edging, get a local builder to cut one piece lengthwise and don't dig it in so far. The last option is the preferred one and will appear visually the same as the others. Brian