Voted for the Capside Lamps! They are so original! I would love to put these in a kids room or a sleek white office to add a splash of colour and a different texture.

hi Julie, This is a relatively common situation in Italy where traditionally, floors are made of either stone or ceramics. In order to fit engineered floors over existing floors, manufactures have developed thin engineered boards 10 or 11mm thick that can be glued straight onto and existing marble floors. the total thickness will be 11mm + 1 or 2mm for the glue for a max thickness of 13mm. Thin boards are available up to 200mm wide 1200 to 2400mm long and once installed look exactly like any other engineered floorboard. No prob for the UFH as 11mm of wood wont stop the heat. Let me know if you want a quote or any help. all the best. Andrea

Wood floors, particularly older ones, will tend to 'squeak' in certain places. This is caused by the wood rubbing against other wood, usually at a joint of the subfloor. Firmly securing the pieces to each other with screws or nails may reduce this problem. Floor vibration is a problem with floors. Wood floors tend to pass sound, particularly heavy footsteps and low bass frequencies. Floating floors can reduce this problem. Concrete or stoun floors are usually so massive they do not have this problem, but they are also much more expensive to construct and must meet more stringent building requirements due to their weight. everything should depend on the chosen concept of the design of the entire space in the house Do not hesitate to sign up for my channel in youtube, there you will learn everything about the design, put the likes, to make a repost)) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHuY28ATRji4MMfQNC-aPdw

Not fully aware of all your points.. I think there are super slim systems available that you can get that mean you don't need to excavate down as much in the existing floor but not sure how the price would compare. but otherwise generally yes, I think you would need to dig down.. and then it depends on the type of subfloor that is currently there, how far down and what kind of prep you'd need... (it's why we ended up not doing it) and flooring wise we've just discovered... if you're going for Karndean/amtico/LVT they have to have 1day/mm depth of screed that you've just poured before they can pour the latex layer before the LVT! we only found this out really late... and discovered we had a 75mm deep screed... so need to wait 75 days in total.. which overall has delayed it by 2-3 weeks. They can add an accelerant to the screed that reduces the time by I think half. (but apparently is quite expensive) Not sure about other floor types