ah yes, that's clearly a better layout isn't it. I gather the water pipes and electrics will run under the floor then. Never had a kitchen area without a window before so would miss that ventilation right by the hob. The extraction would need to run like the water and electrics then i.e.in I.e.inthe roof or underfloor and out of the wall by the utility room? This layout puts he kitchen in the original house, so not in the extended part which will have he new roof so just thinking this may involve breaking into a ceiling which was planned to remain untouched.

I suppose the hob could go on the island which would be very close to where the extension begins so could probably get the extractor pipe more easily into the new roof space from the hob.

I gather water pipes from the sink go under the floor boards. How do they get the fall though when they have to go down the drain and travel 4 meters under the floorboards. I am sure it's not massively unusual to do these things but trying to understand it. Do you think the extra costs are hundreds or more like 1k or 2k?

A variation on Jonathan's idea. Would need to check dimensions as to how much room you had for dining table, but I'd probably prefer it where you were proposing the kitchen. I've roughly given you 1200mm walkway between units and island. And a row of reduced-depth units along the boundary wall - could be full-height for max storage or low/mid-height to keep it more open looking,

Thanks @cwd my dining table is rectangular 60cm x 160cm (can extend to 2m) and I plan to keep it.

The plan would deliver the kind of kitchen I had envisioned from conception. I am sure the U shaped original one would be very functional but might be underwhelming which would be ashame considering there is 30 square meters to play with.

It’s a big, lovely space, but how it’s organised should really follow your priorities. Do you want to look out to the garden while prepping food? Is being able to ventilate the kitchen through an opening window most important? Would you rather give the living area the best garden view? How many people would you actually like to seat at an island or peninsula, or is seating there even a priority?

These are the questions I’d start with, as the answers should make the right layout much clearer. I’m an interior designer specialising in spatial planning, and I offer an online Floor Plan Review if you’d like a fresh pair of eyes and two properly considered options before finalising the services and Building Regulations drawings.

Www.suellenfariasinteriors.co.uk

Alternatives

Only top wall is party wall/boundary so technically plumbing is possible on the left side wall.

The length of bottom wall is longer than the left wall so if you placed the kitchen here you'll get more counter space, slightly bigger island, dedicated media wall/fireplace, WC & utility access outside kitchen area, backyard view while washing dishes.

Make sure the WC wall soundproof, well ventilated and add skylight

Thanks @Devyra Atelier The plan is close to perfect. However, I just cannot allow the toilet to get any closer to the kitchen/living space than it is already planned. I really don't want it in the middle of the house. I realise the plan is otherwise excellent but without moving the toilet it doesn't work sadly.

I see if that is your concern you I suggest 3 option :

1.Applied @Jonathan Layout but make the sink on the island for the backyard view and so the plumbing not running through the top wall.

2.Switch the WC and utility position, so utility located in this center (if you dont need outside access from utillity)

3.Move out the WC from the extention and place it in another position in the existing house (upload the full floorplan of the current house, ideally people will suggest it placed near existing bathroom or if theres any usable space around the house)

I dont recommend U-shape kitchen because its more expensive like using mechanisms such as Le Mans or carousel systems. Also more corners means awkward storage access.

Full GF floor plan attached. The space under the stairs marked 'store' (where boiler is planned to go is too small/low for a WC unfortunately).

will it okay if the WC accessed through utility? that way you can make wrap around extention along the front and use half for cloak storage and shoe rack. This way it make your second lounge bigger

Plan A (WC located on the front with small window)

Plan B (WC accessed through Utillity with skylight , cloak storage placed in the front)

Thanks, it would be great, Unfortunately there is a constraints on the site meaning that long dashed line to the bottom of the image is a no dig line so the building ootprint must remain outside that. This is the reason why the 1m step out cannot run closer to the front of the building and have a full wrap around.

I see can you extend 1 meter more to the back?

sadly not, it is going out 3m which is the max for planning permission

3m might just be for permitted development? if you do full planning application you might get more than 3m...

yes, I would need to go back to architect and amend planning app that is already submitted for planning. I mean it's possible to go down that road but was hoping to optimise the layout with the approved footprint. It does feel like an extra meter is required if I want to deviate from the basic U shape.

also have a think about whether you want lounge space in the kitchen too, or just kitchen and dining?? another option would be to use your existing table but create a dining nook with fitted bench seating in that dining space, to provide perhaps some lounge-ish space without needing a sofa/armchair. bench seating has issues with access for people though - it's a bit of a marmite option.

this plan has a huge amount of storage, probably too much, but something to consider - also, you could probably create a walk-in (or reach-in at least) pantry in that top-left area as you could build out that left wall and create custom pantry to store almost everything in that area. which might then allow you less kitchen units elsewhere and/or a reduced size island. and also check walkways around island, see what the min/max are you're happy with - 900-1400mm are normal, 1200mm is more than enough but 900mm is doable if you are really stretched for space.

go design your own kitchen using DIYKitchens planner online - you don't have to use them for kitchen, but it gives you a good idea of standard-sized units that you can fit in and you can see it in plan form and also 3D.

Thanks @CWD is that the hob on the island and sink on the top wall?

How would plumbing and extraction work? would the overhead extractor run in the roof void and escape out at the bottom over utility room? Or could it escape into the new pitched roof but that would be right under the bedroom window above and next to a skylight (see attached rear elevation). Would that not pull cooking smells and particles back in through both windows. Would sink drain run under the floor in a similar direction to connect up and exit with utility plumbing? I wonder how it could get the fall to drain effectively over such a long distance.

Hob on the wall side would allow you to extract straight up and out of the new roof - always best to have extraction pipe going as straight up as possible with no bends for max efficiency. Ours does that but on a flat roof and I've never even considered the impact on the bedroom window set back above or the opening skylights - I don't think it's an issue. Alternatively you could use hob with recirculating built-in extraction that doesn't vent anywhere, like a Bora for example. Then you don't need the vent hood above which makes it nice for on island if that is your preference.

Our sink is on island and it drains to the garden and then meets the exterior waste system there, so it doesn't need a huge fall. Best to check whether you have any drains going across the back of your house. If you don't have it already, you might want to install it for the kitchen waste - which would be preferable I think to minimise the pipes below house.