Great question! We value a good night's sleep at Bloc Blinds and have developed the BlocOut Blind with that in mind. It provides an unmatched level of darkness in the home. We get a lot of feedback from customers about how much better sleep they are getting as a result both to reduced light in their own room but also due to their children sleeping in longer thanks to the light levels in their rooms too. It is a winner of multiple awards including the House Beautiful award for Best Eco Product and shortlisted this year for the Made for Mums awards under Best Nursery Product Category. Find out how to Get a better night's sleep here.

Off the shelf no but they should be able to be done with flush beads bespoke made. The automatic reaction is to use hockey stick (design of the bead) so this should be able to be swapped.

Hi, so we went for a 1600x800 tray with a glass panel 900 wide. That leaves an opening 700 and it looks great. I think a smaller opening, even with the bath positioned as it is, would feel too small. However we do get lots of splash on the floor. It's ok but a less soggy mat would be better. I'm good at being awear of this. My wife however thinks we have a wet room. I think a 1100 screen would pretty much stop all splash (but would need a longer tray as the 700 opening would look a bit small) and also a wider tray would obviously help slightly as the shower rose would be a fraction further from the opening. I'll add a photo, but excuse the mess! I still need to install the tiled bath and shower base panels

As you correctly state, in the UK most kitchens are based around a 150mm legs/plinth, 720 cabinet and a 40mm worktop making 910mm, there may be a few variations of this, ie howdens have a 160 ish plinth, b+q have taller cabinets for their true handleless at 754mm plus plinth making 942mm including 40mm worktop. I've in the past when a customer has requested taller worktop height, i've offered 200mm tall legs and plinth and kept standard sized base units at 720mm, but this also keeps the costs down. The other way to add height is to alter the worktop height, with wood worktops a half decent fitter could increase the worktop thickness easily by sandwiching strips underneath so you could have a prep area of raised worktop, for granite and quartz its quite easy to make it look much thicker in fabrication (except for curves) But looking at german kitchens, I sometimes copy Nobilia cabinet sizes, they have XL base cabinet sizes at 792mm tall and then they offer plinth heights of 70, 100, 150 and 200mm, they don't though add extra drawers, but just change the size of the facia's, so in theory you could have a 992 tall unit with a 40mm worktop. I should imagine other german kitchens offer the same. But if you were to contact a local independant supplier or you can direct message me, i can design a kitchen to suit your requirements. The limitations though are the doors available and how much a designer can think outside the box. Many of the doors i use are available in made to measure sizes so i can get my cabinets made to suit and its not as expensive as it sounds. With regards to selling the property afterwards, i go into a lot of kitchens to survey and when i say to clients your kitchen units are high or low they really don't realise, i then explain and show them how a 'standard' kitchen would be and give them the option of keeping the height they're used to, explain how it would look and the options to get it or changing to a 'standard' height. So when it comes to selling i don't think most people would notice within reason and since the 60's i believe average heights have increased so it may be the kitchen industry thats not keeping up.