Extended semi layout help please!! Layouts attached.
Yada Bing
3 years ago
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Comments (9)
annabellaamy
3 years agoYada Bing
3 years agoRelated Discussions
1930s semi-detached single storey extension layout advice please
Comments (14)Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew...See More1930 extend and knock-through layout advice please
Comments (6)I also prefer the second plan. A change I might consider is to put the door into the utility on the seating area wall (where it is on the first plan). This change wouldn’t significantly compromise the seating area but would allow for more kitchen cupboards extending the kitchen from L shaped to U shaped. Another reason for choosing your second plan is your concern for the kitchen not being attached to an external wall. Although not impossible to have that setup I am of a mind that it would be better and cheaper to have the drains as near to an external wall as is humanly possible....See MoreHelp with downstairs layout (semi-Detached property)
Comments (2)Hi Munim, I think it looks good, and you've seemingly picked up everything in the brief. The only thing I'd consider and this might just be a personal preference for straight lines is seeing if you could locate the guest WC within the width of the stairs (appreciate the room will need to be longer as the width reduces) with the door being located within the hallway rather than the circulation area. But as mentioned, great design....See MoreVictorian Semi Kitchen/Utility Layout – Help!
Comments (10)Hello, this is a very common layout in Victorian terraces. Is it really a semi? A solution would be to relocate the downstairs loo and utility room to the current dining room - sounds radical but this would also give you valuable storage space and a laundry station as well as keeping the loo away from the kitchen. The dining area could then be created at the end with the outlook you want, while functionality of the kitchen can be improved and united with the dining area with a peninsula unit between the two. This unit would have storage accessible from both sides. I've attached an image of the kind of thing I mean. This was created for layout purposes for another project so please don't take it too literally or focus too much on the 3D objects - it's the peninsula idea I'm trying to illustrate. To avoid having to struggle through the dining room to access the back garden with bin bags etc, a new back door could be created from the new utility room - there is already a window there....See MoreThe Kitchen Lady UK
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