Thanks Rowland, I won't take too much of your time, but just wanted to add something more for this thread. I have been looking at Trevor Yorke's books/info and he did this drawing of a 1960's style house. I am thinking that there would be no blockwork behind the tiles just timber studwork and plaster board and perhaps some polystyrene. But you might be right the inner course could be blockwork. Once I carefully take a few tiles I will know more but haven't moved in yet. I was thinking of cleaning the tiles when they are off individually or using the brush in the picture. There is a lot of moss type growth in the tiles. Interesting that you said concrete I thought it was a brick like material baked in a kiln. I am using my time for planning at the moment and costing. I checked on the local authority website and a neighbour was refused planning as they were adding a two story extension onto the side of the house and changing the porch. Basically there was a clear indication that new changes must be sympathetic to the surroundings and neighbours. But as you have said Rowland, its worth having a conversation first as its free and if the neighbours had done this they could have saved a £1000 or so as they had drawings done. Aparenty Britan wasn't ready for the modern 60's buildings at the time so they put the wall hung tiles on to help them blend in to period properties. Know it looks really dated because of the tiles!!! I don't know if I am brave enough to to change the visual appearance too much and think just revive everything would be a 'safer' way to go. Going back to the cavity wall. Did you see there were some cut down bricks near the front edge when you look at the end face of the wall? That what was making me think there might be a cavity and as you have said in the 60's they should have been doing them. The energy EPC report assumes cavity. If anyone else thinks not cavity please let me know before I get quotes done. I think there are powered glass type insulation and also expanding foam types. But as you said it may trap water and or cause thermal bridging. I will have to research it but potentially saving £200-300 per year would help the energy bill. Thanks again Aaron

Hi we are in Swansea South Wales? I haven’t had chance to ask as this is only a recent thing we’ve noticed. It only seem to be on this side of the house at the moment where the rain has been hitting this side of the house? We left it for a few weeks to be honest because we didn’t move in for a while but has been gone for over a year now? The rain has been bad though. The builder pulled some out for another section of the wall where we had the same issue, he said the rock wool was soaking wet. Yes we always get drainage issues around the gate and front and side of the house. There is hole in the mortar I’ve tried to patch most of them up but there’s quite a few I need to fill. That wall where the damp is has been filled so there aren’t many left that side? Hi jonathan, it’s a brick house, I the water is from where the rain has been hitting great side of the house, soaking through and into the mode section cavity where the insulation is and soaking through to the internal wall? There no other sources of water only on the floor where the drainage isn’t the best?

Hi, In need of a bit of advice or guidance regarding the possible need for damp proofing to an existing external wall that now becomes an internal wall after an extension. I plan to keep it as exposed brickwork as attached visual. The problem (or maybe it's not a problem) I have is the new extension lower floor level (blue line) is a lot lower then the existing DPC (pink line). Is there a chance moisture will run up that external wall and create damp issues? If so, what would be my best course of action? Hoping that all made sense. Many thanks in advance.

I had a PIV in a former home and it worked like a dream from the second it was switched on. Our main problem in that house was condensation and it solved the problems instantly. What is your subfloor construction? Solid concrete floors or suspended timber? If it is timber check your air bricks are clear for cross ventilation but also if you can lift a few boards and check underneath that there is no water ingress down there. My parents house developed a terrible damp problem which was because water was pooling underneath their suspended floor. This was solved by installing a sump pump.