Hi BFM, just looking at previous posts relating to opening up fireplaces and can't find anything that seems to mirror our current situation. Every fireplace in our new home (and there should be 6!) has been sealed with cement. There is no vent on the inside wall...in fact all there seems to be in the vicinity of where the fireplaces should be are plug sockets. I am absolutely desperate to start opening one up (I'd like to open them all up in time) just to see what they've done. Nothing seems to have been done "correctly" in the house so uncovering lots of mysteries. I'll post a photo example below.

Hi John, We would always suggest external insulation rather than internal insulation, where you have the option, because as John Botham states there is a real risk of interstitial condensation, and potential mould and damage to the structure. If you do need to do it internally be careful not to add to much and ensure it is fitted carefully without gaps and with a good vapour barrier - especially around electric sockets etc. if you use a product such as Kingspan. It is also vital that you return the insulation in around the windows, this makes significant differences to overall performance and the risk of condensation and mould at this point, though this insulation can be thinner. We often recommend a breathable insulation such as Pavadentro when internal insulation is required, as this allows the moisture to come in and out of the wall. Careful detailing at internal wall junctions, floors and roof are also needed, along with good airtightness sealing, while you are doing it. Putting a price on external insulation is difficult as it depends on many factors, such as needing to move down pipes, extending eaves etc, along with thickness and type of insulation. A good render, installed correctly should last many years without the need for any maintenance and can perform to a much higher standard than internal. You asked if we do work in Cheshire, yes, we cover quite a wide area we are working on projects from Mold in Wales to the Channel islands, give us a call if you would like to discuss further. Regards Alan

You can 'skim' bricks by way of cutting them down with a disc cutter/angle grinder. You could take 10-15mm off the face of the brick, stick it onto the concrete lintel with suitable adhesive and then point up with mortar but the bricks will stand proud. Now that's OK if you have the equipment to hand and you feel confident to at least give it a go and if that being the case then it's be pretty cheap to do. If you rely on a tradesman doing it then there's no point as it's a lot of 'faffing' that will end up costing a fortune in labour. If I were to do it I might even take out 10-20mm of the lintel with an angle grinder and chisel and then fit the slips flush but you'd have to take care not to damage the lintel or take too much away. I think you might be safe with a third of the width, similar to the amount you can overhang a brick. Again, a fair amount of work, especially up a ladder! If you get the window company to attach a fascia panel then it would be in-keeping with the new window materials and the current eaves materials. It should be cheap anyway. If, for example, you were replacing the windows with a grey aluminium contemporary window then they might need taking out, but you're going to put in white framed windows that aren't to dissimilar to what you have already so with that being the case I'd personally just save all the hassle and keep the lintels. Out of interest - what have neighbouring properties done or do they all have the same concrete lintel?

I have had time to digest what you all said. Yes, that's a hallway. ... I caved! haha ... but at least it's not a pointless one at 1.8m we currently bear. We like our open central living area, and dining at the back of it, and will do so while ever there is no "upstairs". I have drawn in where a bedroom used to be in the living room. I've slimmed the bathrooms right back, to one with a bath, one with a shower, distributed the sizes to not interfere with the laundry door being opened up if the second bathroom was removed, and lined up the "supporting" walls between the bathroom and "our room". The hallway will offer the privacy for the end room that opens onto the garden, and at the same time it can be seen as the master with en-suite... not that we will use it for that. The location of the bathroom is and has always been awkward to get to, requiring a long walk... but at least there will be TWO... but I may very well continue to place the door off the living room and not the hall due to wishing to make the access easier for guests and the 3 bedrooms it serves. All this does bear resemblance to the original layout, but should stick with what works and not fight this awkward house too much. The additional bonus is it is the minimum building cost and effort entailed. I believe it scratches some itches in regards to better bedroom sizes, segregating the placement of bathrooms a little more, and the future flexibility of moving the living area towards the garden end of the house.